38 Studebaker planar suspension adjustment

[SC38dls]

I posted this on Studebaker forum also, I’ve tried searching with no luck. So posted here. 
 

I’m looking for info on how to adjust the suspension. My left front tire is worn out after 5000 miles and the right front is fine. Both bought at same time. The inside seems more worn than the outside.  Is it as simple as lengthening the control arm or would I tighten it?  Is it something else? 
 

Any help would be appreciated. 
dave s 

[dictator27]

If the tire has worn out that quickly I think it is past the point of a simple adjustment.  Wear on the inside of the tire means it is possibly toeing out as you drive.  What is the condition of the left side tie rod ends?  It could also mean excessive camber meaning the wheel is leaning in at the top.

[SC38dls]

I will have to check the all the parts out. I was told the front suspension was rebuilt before I bought it but you know how truthful that can be. Tomorrow should allow time to check and I will post what I find

 

Thanks

dave s

[DFeeney]

Hello,  Just because it was rebuilt does not mean it was but back into factory spec.  I would have a front end shop check the specs and also check for worn parts.  This would stop the guessing and give you a place to start.  Money well spent.  Stay Safe,  Don

[SC38dls]

Don I agree, the problem is finding a shop that will have any idea how a38 should be aligned. I know one guy that may be able to help and plan to call him tomorrow. I will post the results. 
dave s 

[DFeeney]

Hello again, Although I am not a front end alignment man I would think the inspection would be straight forward.  They would put their tool on your LF tire rim and tell if your Caster and Camber is in spec.  If it's not  they would know which way things should move and  by looking at your components figure out what to loosen and move.  Attached is my 1922 Studebaker Big 6 Dirt Track Racer.  Stay Safe,  Don

[SC38dls]

Great looking car. I’m taking it to the one guy in town that may be able to do the alignment. I’ll keep everyone posted as to results 

dave s

[DFeeney]

Hello again Dave,  I am 75.  When I was 20 I rebuilt the front end of my 1938 Pontiac with all new pieces.  When I finished It looked correct.  How ever when I took it to a alignment shop one side was way out of spec.  They said I assembled one of the eccentric bushings backwards.  For a extra labor charge they turned it around and finished the alignment.   Perhaps your car has a similar problem.  Take care,  Don

[SC38dls]

Thanks Don - That may be the problem but I wouldn't know if that was the case.  I went to the guy I know that does all kinds of foreign and older US cars. Unfortunately he does not do alignments. He sent me to another older guy that he sends his cars too. The fenders on the 38 will not allow the machine to be hooked up. I offered to take the fender off but he said the machine would not have the proper specs and I need to find an older machine.  He also said it requires a very lucky try to do it with out a machine.  I am not a lucky guy in general.  Time to do more research.

dave s 

[dictator27]

What is needed is a manual front end machine, no electronics.  Either one which the caster/camber gauge clamps to the rim of the front wheels or attaches magnetically to the front wheel hub.

I have specs for 1935 Studebakers with planar suspension which should be the same or very similar.

Caster should be between -1/4 to +3/4 degrees.  This is not adjustable.  Any variation indicates wear in the front spring.

There are two camber measurements.  Wheel camber should be between 1 to 1 1/2 degrees.  Both of the above adjustments should be done on level ground with tires properly inflated and after bouncing the front of the car several times.

Spring camber can be determined by stretching a string between the spring centre bolt and the outer spring bolt.  If the string is more than 3/8 of an inch above the dividing line between the spring retaining plate and spring housing, that indicates excessive spring sag.

Toe in should be between 1/16 and 1/8 inch.  Adjustment is by changing the length of the longer reach rod.

Terry

[SC38dls]

Terry. I have the service manual a friend sent me and the specs are the same. Thank you. I did find a shop that say they can do the alignment and have an appointment next week. I will let all know how it goes. 
dave s 

[SC38dls]

Got it figured out. With the car on jack stands nothing seems loose but put it back on the ground and it’s a different story. The right steering rod knuckle is worn and loose. Up off the ground and the weight of the wheel and suspension parts weight keeps it from moving. It was hard for an old crippled up fat guy to slide under it and start trying to move parts and see what part was moving. I lift would have made things much easier but this is out of my budget range. 
ordered both knuckles as I figured if one is worn best to replace both for the extra $38 knuckle cost. Going to have alignment checked tomorrow. Total cost of 2 knuckles, 2 tires, mounting, balance and alignment was just over $600. 
dave s 

[DFeeney]

Hello Dave,  Glad to hear of your progress.  At today's labor cost  the total price seems fair.  Feel Lucky the parts are still available.  Once you start on a problem you have to work your way through it and it seems you have done that.  Keep us posted as we learn things also.  Don