WPVT Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 I put solid copper, fabric covered ignition wires on my 1954 Dodge flathead 6, thinking I was doing the right thing. Radio interference is not important for me, but I don't like the terminal ends that came with the set. They don't hold the spark plug firmly, and they don't hold well in the distributor cap. I've used Rajah connectors in the past, and they hold firmly. I don't mind soldering, and I have a Rajah crimper. So I could go that route. Is there a type of ignition wire and terminal that I can use and not have to wonder if they are working correctly ? They have to come with one end uninstalled, as they need to thread through a metal harness on the engine block. I'm not adverse to buying bulk wire and terminals also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 (edited) Go to the Brillman website........they have everything you need at reasonable prices. Section G is all the ignition terminals......... www.brillman.com Edited November 8, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WPVT Posted November 8, 2020 Author Share Posted November 8, 2020 Thanks. I have their catalog. They have a great selection and quality. I'm looking for advice regarding styles and types of wire and connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 Some of the wiring suppliers, such as Rhode Island and Brillman use the single layer spark plug terminals that never seem to stay on well because the metal is not springy enough. I use the two layer "spring lock" type like these from NAPA. They hold very well. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL727005 I solder the wire core inside the crimp end before folding and crimping it around the wire insulation. For the distributor cap end I use these brass ones. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL727008 Inserting the wire through the hole created by the wedge-shaped spear point and soldering before crimping. As long as you don't distort them from over crimping they hold very well inside the cap. And by soldering they don't pull off and stay inside the cap towers if you have to remove a wire. Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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