Sidevalve 8s camshaft oiling is missing

[Narve N]

I have the last days tried to create oil pressure in two old Chrysler 8 cylinder sidevalve engines (one 323 and one 385 cid), both overhauled respectively 20 and 35 years ago and just stored since. After inserting grease in one and heavy oil in the other oil pump I have managed to create some oil pressure in both engines by running the starter on 12V without plugs. But worryingly when I look at the valve lifters and camshaft bearings, there seems to be no oil coming in this area on either engine. Anyone having inputs on this, must the oil be pressurized for a certain time period before any oil will reach the camshaft, is there typical errors to be done when rebuilding that could deny oil reaching the camshaft bearings? The (1947) 323 cid also misses its oil filter canister refer my other posting and is difficult to create any pressure on it at all. I am also worried that this engine is hard to turn by hand, almost as there are some very dry bearings somewhere..

I have added a picture of the 385 valve lifters, so far there is much more grey paint than there is oil in this area. Will likely need to address the hopeless overspray too.

 

[keithb7]

Is there a chance that the oil in this area is moved by mist and splashing? Are there little pools to collect oil? Maybe in the cast housing around and between the valves and tappets? In the 50's engines that I have worked on have these oil pools. Oil collects here and drip out a hole in the bottom, on to the tappets. Finding its way down to the camshaft too.

 

An example here of oil collection pools. 
 

 

Edited April 19, 2020 by keithb7 (see edit history)

[c49er]

The engine really should be running before you will see much oil oozing/ spashing in the lifter area's of both straight 8's.

If I were you I would use an engine pre-oiler pressure tank..to pre lube both engines thoroughly as they have been sitting so long. Turning the engine over 90 degree's at a time while pushing oil into the main galley. Running 2-3 quarts into the engine.

The 323 being hard to turn over is concerning.

The 385 looks to have progressive wound valve springs...tighter wound coil at one end. Generally the tighter wound end always goes to the block not the valve retainer.

The 323's are this way as are all the MoPar sixes up to and including the 377/413 truck sixes.

 

Edited May 11, 2020 by c49er (see edit history)

[Narve N]

4 hours ago, c49er said:

The 323 bring hard to turn over is concerning.

The 385 looks to have progressive wound valve springs...tighter wound coil at one end. Generally the tighter wound end always goes to the block not the valve retainer. The 323's are this way as are the MoPar sixes.

 

I am also concerned about the tight engine. One tip has been to loosen every main bearing a given amount (half turn?) to see if that makes a difference. I will also check to see what info I can find on the 385 valve spring orientation.

[c49er]

Best bet maybe remove a couple main and rod caps just to see if the bearings are completely dry.

Some assembly lubes we're white  assembly paste....I've seen that dry up and turn hard after time.

[Narve N]

21 hours ago, Narve N said:

 

I will also check to see what info I can find on the 385 valve spring orientation.

 

According to the Parts Manual (do not know if there ever was any Shop Manual for these cars), the spring are tighter wound at the bottom/retainer end, which can barely be identified from this rough photocopy. Which would indicate they are OK on this engine.