Question about 1985-1996 Park Avenues

[Guest]

I am considering getting one of these cars. What should I look for? I see a lot of the first generation FWD Park Avenues(1985-1990) on the road around here and I was wondering if there was anything to look out for.

[Centurion]

You're right about the number of these cars (and the similar LeSabres) still on the road. The one issue I've heard of is that the FWD transaxles were a weak point on the earlier cars ('85 and '86), but these were beefed up and made more reliable over time. I personally know individuals with very high mileage '88 and '89 Park Avenues who marvel at their trouble-free performance and long-term reliability. Personally, I would look for the fairly rare '90 Park Avenue Ultra or one of the Electra T-Types.

[Dave@Moon]

If you buy a later version with ABS, be wary of the condition of the brake system. If it hasn't been regularly serviced (read "bled"), pass on the car. It'll cost a fortune to repair the damage any neglect is sure to cause.<P>I also know that the power windows can be a bear to work on (they work using a plastic band running in a track, at least in the 1991's). Make sure they work well.

[Guest]

This is what I've heard...<BR>GM had a simple problem on their 440-T4 transmissions. I think they only used them beside 3.8's. They would shift late and slip. I assume this would show up in the first 100,000 miles. They fixed them by taking a spool valve out of the valve body and reinstalling it backwards. If you go test drive one of these cars it will have had the trans fixed long ago or it will be bad during the test drive. If its bad it will need a new trans and then it will be good for 250,000 miles.<P>Tomsriv<BR>

[Guest]

My grandmother bought a used '93 Park Ave. a number of years ago w/ 75,000. The first 2-3 of owning it, it did need to have tranny rebuilt, 1-2 was starting to slip, and the brakes did need some work(master and a cyclinder I believe.) Other than that and an electrical gremlin that trips the breaker that controls the locks/seat/side mirror/etc. , the car has ran great. Even though I feel a bit cramped when I drive it(coming from the 225, almost everything feels cramped), its a pleasure. Plenty of responsive power from the throttle.<P>------------------<BR>1973 Electra 225-2dr.<BR>92,000 mi. and on its way to 100,000 quick<BR>My poor exhaust tip is crying out for some air shocks

[GSMAG]

My parents had an '89 Electra that my brother now owns. Weak points in the car are brake rotors, they warp and the brakes pulse, no matter how carefully the front wheels are torqued, they warp. The armrest in the door pulls away from the door. The metal behind strips out or gives way. It won't fall off, but does require a gentle touch until repaired. The transaxle went at about 100,000. The rebuild is now up to about 45,000 and still going. The rest of the car has been bulletproof. I highly recommend one. I second the motion of looking for an Ultra or a T-Type (I was this close to getting Dad to get a T-Type years ago!)

[Guest]

My dad has an 88 park avenue with 175,000 miles and its never had anything but normal service (brakes, oil changes and a couple alternator) he also has a 90 le sabre that he put had one head off to grind valves at 165,000 and that is still running with over 200,000 and I have a friend with an 88 park avenue that has nearly 300,000 miles and the only thing other than normal service he has ever done is replace the starter about a month ago. <P>------------------<BR>

[86 2dr.ltd]

We've got a 86 LeSabre 150000 and no trans. problem.We dont beat and race it,maybe this is why.Some have had problems with the mains on 3.8 others have not.The problems with windows is the cheaply made electric switch.The contacts get burnt and stop doing their job Buick wants 100.00 each and that was 4 yrs ago.There is no problem with window motor that I'm aware of but the plastic guides that hold them in(front and top rear of window) get wore and then they bind and will eventually pop out at rear and then fall down and out of motor guide laying in bottom of door till you fix it.There is no real issue here once one figures it out.The little clips are small change and I can take an entire door and strip it in 15 minutes, any questions ask.The 86 87 have a different door panel than later and have no arm rest problems,the door pull is seperate and well attached.A large amount of these have been parked because the fuel lines above tank and by the filter rust out.These can be fixed with ends bought from auto parts store and one piece of high pressure gas hose(on feed line only),to replace proper, you need to buy entire sending unit not cheap.The tank is reasonable I replaced mine and repaired the lines.This is also the place of most unseen rust.Also check windshield,door post for rust,as well as by hinges and bottom inside of door,its slow but steady.The rack and pinions had nylon bushings and wore out the remanufactured have brass or bronze.Im not sure of years that had this problem but we had ours replaced at 110,000.If you know how to handle a car anti-lock brakes are unnessary trash!Cheap brake pads will warp a rotor good metalic will not.A caliper that sticks when new pads are put on will warp a rotor a free caliper will not!If driven properly brakes should never get hot!I put cheap pads on our winter car with brand new rotors and have already warped them and they have poor breaking I mean you can feel it(or can't)and I also drove my pickup with a slightly sticking caliper to town to get a new one and warped the rotor on the way!<P>Im not sure of the difference between the LeSabre and Park Ave as they are different body designations but appear the same to me(accept the obvious),maybe the Park Ave. is a slightly longer wheelbase.<P>There are these few quirks but,these cars are selling for next to nothing and are no doubt the best buy for the buck.I'm talking 85's to 91's. <P>If you dont have children or a lot of need for rear seat entrance I of course would suggest a 2dr. LeSabre Limited with red interior.Its the best Buick ever made!Har-Har!!

[Guest]

One thing is for certain, you've got yourself one of the most reliable cars on the planet. While the reliability of the H&C-Bodies are great, the 3800s track record is legendary. These engines just plain don't wear out. I've seen them at 350,000+, without ever being touched. The 440t4 and 4T60e are good trannies. They last very long when paired with 2.8s or 3.1s, but the torque of the 3.8 takes it's toll on the otherwise smooth-shifting tranny. Tranny problems usually appear at 150k or so. They got better in 92 or so when they went electronically controlled, though. As far as the body goes, the 85-90s did have some interior problems like armrest and stuff. From a driving standpoint, the Electra T-type is my pic. Or if your looking for a crusier the 91+Park ave. is nice. And even the Supercharged Ultra can get 29 mpg on the highway. They are a nice car, and very durable, see my sig.<P><P>------------------<BR>-Keith<P>'87 Lesabre T-type (The T without WHOOSH)<P>'86 Regal w/350 (still in progress)<P>http://members.nbci.com/lesabrettype/index.html

[Guest]

I have had two of these cars, a 1985 Electra T-Type (4CX11), and just bought a 1987 LeSabre T-Type (4HP37). I owned the Electra for almost 7 1/2 years, and hated to get rid of it, although damaged in an accident. My main complaint was cooling problems, as in this amount of time, I had two new radiators, as well as several leaks repaired. I probably would have been better to purchase a radiator from a salvage yard. The car used no oil at 152,000, and mechanically was excellent. The clear-coat chipped and allowed the paint to go bad after several years.<P>The LeSabre is also a great running car, although this particular vehicle has had a "rough-life." I purchased it with over 150,000 miles on it. It uses oil (which is the first Buick I ever had to do so). This car, like the Electra T-Type continues to run.<P>I think that I would look for one of these cars with about 90,000 miles on in good condition. The price would be fairly reasonable, and you would be able to get about 10 years out of this car. I like the T-Types and Ultra versions.<P>Regards,<BR><P>------------------<BR>Frank Lee<BR>BCA # 14103<BR>franklee@uplink.net

[NTX5467]

The first generation of these H/C platforms were good designs which only got better with the second version.<P>The transaxles had problems during the first years of production when they changed to electronic controls, but are good in the later versions.<P>From the dealership level, the only bad things of the engines were the magnetic "interrupter" falling out of the cam sprocket (which killed the motor as the computer lost that input signal), but that has virtually vanished with the later models for some reason.<P>The window regulators typically have more problems with the ball-stud slide that makes the window go up and down and the clips which keep the glass in the channel. More cost for labor than parts by a long shot.<P>In the later versions, which I would recommend over the earlier ones as most of the earlier situations were engineered out by then, I like the style of the interior and the exterior of the Park Avenues a lot. One of GM and Buick's best efforts in a great car with excellent durability, performance, economy, and style.<P>A T-type/Ultra version would be nice, but I'd definitely put some stiffer struts under it for decreased float. Maybe some Konis or similar and a few other suspension tweaks.<P>Many customers of the first generation car (who had just traded in an earlier model Buick) complained of strut noise from the suspension. Many factory fixes/bulletins resulted, but the problem was probably not really fixed until the later second generation cars with different strut mounts, etc.<P>Down here in the warmer climates, ABS problem are nil except when some speedy-lube person puts incorrect fluid in the brakes. In that respect, you might check the master cylinder caps/gaskets for swelling. <P>In any event, be an informed shopper. If you can find one at a GM dealer with a verifiable history it might be better than a private party, but that is highly variable. At least the dealer can be held more accountable with some type of initial warranty protection or you can buy a GM extended warranty if it's offered.<P>Happy shopping!<BR>NTX5467

[86 2dr.ltd]

There are still some first owner cars out there from this era.Thats where Id look if I wanted to take my time and do some shopping.

[GSMAG]

I stand behind the brake problems as a problem with the car, at least the one my parents had. Nothing but top quality brake parts went on that car, perhaps driving habits? Not sure. Consumer reports always showed brake problems on those cars and the dealer admitted the rotors were slightly under engineeered. A mild pain, but trivial compared with what a solid car it is.<p>[This message has been edited by GSMAG (edited 02-05-2001).]

[Guest]

friend has a 91 park ave. the kid drives like a maniac, the can has tons of miles on it, and other than all the body damage from the owner's lack of driving skill, it has only had problems with the tranny and the front brakes. (complete rebuild and new rotors to fix). overall, seems to be a solid car at least in his model year.<P><P>------------------<BR>allan<BR>--------------<BR>50 special, 455/th400<BR>64 stude gt hawk, 289/auto<BR>76 poncho GP, 400/th400

[Guest]

Thank Y'all for the advice. I liked the cars since I was a kid and now my dream of owning one is slowly(but surely) coming into fruition.

[Guest]

I purchased a 95 Ultra 2 years ago with 23099<BR>on it and Have 41000 on at the present. It had a ABS/Traction Control problem But was cover by a Service contract that I got with it and the first time a service Dept. has every service one of my vehicles other than new warrenties. I really like this Car! I have been Try to Keep the miles down but my wife really really likes it!!!<P>Gene<P>95 Ultra<BR>85 Riv<BR>84 Riv