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Sunbeam Tiger alloy radiator


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I have a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger MKII (289cu in) and I am thinking of upgrading the radiator from the current standard unit to an aluminium one with electric fan in front. Currently the temp rises to 85 degrees Centigrade if driving gently, but goes higher, to the point of boiling, if driving harder or in high ambient temperatures.

I am planning to use a RadTec ali rad with a Spall fan, as I have seen others using those. But I would appreciate thoughts on whether my plan is sound. Whilst the rad is out, I am going to replace the water pump (which has the slightest bit of nod in the bearing) and the thermostat as a precaution and whilst the opportunity is there to clean up all the housings and gasket faces. I have also invested in a set of 'classic' silicone hoses to replace the full set including the heater hoses. I am suspicious of the heater core, so I will be checking that when I do the job too. The objective is to have something that will be up to spirited driving over long distances.

Now here is my question; When fitting an ali rad with electric fan, have others left the original steel fan cowl in place? It must add to the efficiency of the original mechanical fan, of course. And secondly, do others retain the mechanical fan? Or simply rely upon the new (thermostatically switched) electric fan, which will be a 'pusher' fan on the front of the rad.

 

Any thoughts or previous experiences?

Thank you
Adam..

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Have you had the current radiator cleaned internally ? Involves removing the tanks and 'rodding' the tubes, which I dont think would be expensive. If it has A/C, is there any debris between the radiator and condenser? Is the tuning all in spec - mixture, ignition timing etc? Radiator and cooling system flushed? I have heard of iron water pump impellers being degraded by corrosion . In my reading alloy rads securing the tanks with epoxy dont seem to last well.  Electric radiator fans are more efficient as pullers than pushers.

If the temp climbs as you go faster it could be retarded timing also. An electric fan is unlikely to help in your scenario, so I think its either radiator, pump or timing. 

jp 26 Rover 9, 83 Porsche 285cu in

Edited by jp928 (see edit history)
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On ‎8‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 4:46 AM, jp928 said:

Have you had the current radiator cleaned internally ? Involves removing the tanks and 'rodding' the tubes, which I dont think would be expensive. If it has A/C, is there any debris between the radiator and condenser? Is the tuning all in spec - mixture, ignition timing etc? Radiator and cooling system flushed? I have heard of iron water pump impellers being degraded by corrosion . In my reading alloy rads securing the tanks with epoxy dont seem to last well.  Electric radiators are more efficient as pullers than pushers.

If the temp climbs as you go faster it could be retarded timing also. An electric fan is unlikely to help in your scenario, so I think its either radiator, pump or timing. 

jp 26 Rover 9, 83 Porsche 285cu in

 

The existing rad has been rebuilt before, to standard spec. I think about 25 years ago. I have seen others with the alloy rad and it seems to address the overheating problem which is standard on a Tiger. I take your point about flushing, I will give that a try. Also, perhaps I should check the advance curve on the distributor.

 

The type of rad I am looking at is a specialist race-spec welded alloy one. There is no A/C!!

 

Thanks

Adam..

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25 years is plenty of time to get sludged up again! The latest in flushing seems to be not just chemical stuff, but a tool that combines water flow and air pressure, apparently to provide pulsing - see if you can find something along these lines. Re ignition , I did some tuning work on a car once, and it seemed to go ok, but on a run I noticed that as speed went up , the temp climbed more than usual  - later found timing was retarded ~5 degrees.

jp 26 Rover 9

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Seems this is the one you are looking at.

 

http://classicalloyradiators.co.uk/products/312/Sunbeam-Tiger.htm

 

tn_1zuzp_rst_1.jpg

Sunbeam Tiger
Sunbeam Tiger high efficency alloy radiator. Fitment as original. Features fan sender switch that comes with plug in case not required. Opptional Etras: 1) Fitted Spal fan - £51.00 2) Fan sender switch various temperature settings - £8.00 3) Classic look Powder coating - £35 Please contact sales team on 01543 502525 to discuss these options.

Part Code: RST 1
 
£365.00 + VAT

 

You would eliminate the original fan if using an electric.

 

The most important thing for cooling is the radiator core, how much coolant capacity, how much coolant the core accommodates. That depends on how many rows and how many tubes per row. I've had success in other vehicles by 1) going from a 2 row radiator up to a 3 row and 2) in another vehicle, retaining 2 rows, but using a new "XL" core that had more tubes per row thus holding more coolant. This last option was something a radiator shop had to offer me, and I told them to put it in. This is after having wasted money having the old radiator with original core dis assembled, old core rodded (cleaned) and old core reinstalled. That was a waste. I'd never do that again.

 

 

Edited by mike6024 (see edit history)
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15 hours ago, Alfa said:

No I haven`t. What a great resource. Thanks very much.

 

Yes, if you scroll through the tech topics you will find a particularly good article on an extensive study done to alleviate Tiger overheating.

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  • 4 weeks later...
On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 9:58 PM, mike6024 said:

Seems this is the one you are looking at.

 

http://classicalloyradiators.co.uk/products/312/Sunbeam-Tiger.htm

 

tn_1zuzp_rst_1.jpg

Sunbeam Tiger
Sunbeam Tiger high efficency alloy radiator. Fitment as original. Features fan sender switch that comes with plug in case not required. Opptional Etras: 1) Fitted Spal fan - £51.00 2) Fan sender switch various temperature settings - £8.00 3) Classic look Powder coating - £35 Please contact sales team on 01543 502525 to discuss these options.

Part Code: RST 1
 
£365.00 + VAT

 

You would eliminate the original fan if using an electric.

 

The most important thing for cooling is the radiator core, how much coolant capacity, how much coolant the core accommodates. That depends on how many rows and how many tubes per row. I've had success in other vehicles by 1) going from a 2 row radiator up to a 3 row and 2) in another vehicle, retaining 2 rows, but using a new "XL" core that had more tubes per row thus holding more coolant. This last option was something a radiator shop had to offer me, and I told them to put it in. This is after having wasted money having the old radiator with original core dis assembled, old core rodded (cleaned) and old core reinstalled. That was a waste. I'd never do that again.

 

 

Yes that is the exact one. I ordered it last week and even got some discount!! Should arrive next week.

 

Also, the Tiger East forum is great. I have read a lot about the cooling tests.

 

Thanks for the tip.

 

Adam..

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