WindsorRon Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 I have been reading a thread from Desoto Frank posted 12/30/06 on changing out the fluid in the fluid drive. It seems straight forward but there is one detail that leave me questions. "after removing the filler plug...turn the filler port to 6 o'clock and let it drain." Is there a marker that indicates when the port is at 6 o'clock or do you just guess? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Chrysler made no recommendation to change oil, however they probably did not expect them to still be on the road after 70 years. Is there a cover plate on the bottom of the bellhousing to give access to the plug? If you can't see it you will have to guess. If there is no hole or plate I don't know how the oil will drain out. The only access hole they all have is at 2 o'clock thru the floorboard under the dash board. You could take out the plug then turn the engine 120 degrees. I think I would top it up and let it go at that, as the manufacturer recommends. Unless someone has put in the wrong oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 I would not change the Fluid Drive fluid either. Never have changed it in any of my 11 Mopars over the last 35 years. Never a leaker or failure either. I have seen a couple leak after a change though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WindsorRon Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 I have been supplementing a small drip with SAE 10wt non-detergent oil. As California, in they infinite wisdom, banned non-detergent oils, I feel I have no alternative but to switch to an alternative. Mixing oils can bring there set of problems. Yes, I wish I wasn't faced with this issue. I had to remove and clean the oil pan a few months back because of the same Issues. But I do appreciate the information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 Use tractor hydraulic fluid, TDH type, ISO32 grade. TDH stands for transmission, differential and hydraulic and ISO32 is 10W. Sometimes sold as GL 303 tractor hydraulic fluid or AW32 hydraulic fluid. Same fluid can be used in the transmission, which should get an oil change every 10,000 miles. A gallon will last for years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WindsorRon Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 Thank you. I'm getting everything together. Looking forward to being able to "peel out" when all is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 You might be able to peel out on a surface of greasy BBs. Fluid Drive cars do not take off fast. Chrysler compared it to an airplane. The fluid drive slips a lot at low speeds and tightens up as you get going but still slips about 3% at hiway speeds. There are things they used to do for faster takeoff but you probably don't want to know about them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanpitkin Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 If you want fast take off buy a motorcycle,don't buy a car with fluid drive.I have two so I know! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 You can start off in Low and do a brake torque. Another old trick is to drain off some of the oil for whippier acceleration. Acts like a high stall speed torque converter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevChip Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) Hi folks! I haven't written about my 48 New Yorker Club Coup ("Miss Daisy") in quite awhile. It has been the winter project at Bauer's Automotive garage since December. The problem has been that owner Greg has had severe back problems and could not do work on the car for two months. Now, with some relief, he has finished installing the new wiring harness. I have been over at the garage almost every day working on various projects. The brakes are done with new master and wheel cylinders, gas tank cleaned, new fuel line, radiator and heater cores cleaned and repaired as needed, etc. Right now I am working on the fluid drive transmission. I drained the fluid from the transmission, and have an unopened gallon of original Mopar Fluid Drive fluid to refill the needed three pints. But from what I have read, the torque converter is another story. Considering the car has been in dry storage and not run since 1972 (started once for 30 seconds a couple of months ago to hear the engine), do I just check the fluid level of the converter and leave it alone otherwise? And how do you check the fluid level? From what I understand, it takes more than my gallon of fluid to fill the converter if I drain it. Also, when the old wiring harness came out, there was no leads to the kick down switch and the anti stall. But my new harness (from Harnesses Unlimited) has both leads. Exactly how are these attached? You folks have been a great help in months past, and I appreciate any information you can give me. Thanks in advance, and God bless you. Edited May 18, 2018 by RevChip word correction (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 This question has already been answered a few million times, at least once in this thread and in plenty of others. The transmission should be drained and refilled every 10,000 miles like any other manual trans, there is a fill plug on the right side. fill till fluid drips out. The Fluid Drive unit is completely separate. Chrysler never called for a fluid change but did suggest checking and topping up every 10,000 miles. The filler is on the right side of the transmission tunnel below the instrument panel. Roll back the carpet and you will see a removable plate. Take out the screws and remove the plate. Under it you will see the bellhousing. There will be a round hole with a tin knockout plug. Pry out the plug. Inside the bellhousing is the Fluid Drive unit. Bump the starter until the fill plug comes into view. Stuff a rag around the hole and unscrew the plug. Pour in oil until it is full. There needs to be a certain amount of air space to allow for heat expansion. The filler is located so you can't overfill. Put the plug back in and replace the knockout plug, cover plate and carpet. There you are done. PS if you are wondering what the rag is for you don't want to drop the plug down inside the bellhousing. Ask me how I found this out ha ha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 If you are curious about the care and driving of Fluid Drive cars there were a couple of long threads back in 2008 that went into the question very thoroughly. In the Chrysler section if you do a search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevChip Posted May 19, 2018 Share Posted May 19, 2018 Thanks, Rusty. I know what I asked was covered, but being a newbie to fluid drive, I guess I am extra cautious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Glad to be of help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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