1956322 Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Has anyone tried the auto parts store gaskets.. They're a little lager with the oblong holes...I havIA minor leak after replacing my housing..I used the supplied gasket and a little sealant.. Hoping I just didn't clean it will enough.. Anyhow no one has the"correct" gasket locally and I really don't feel like spending 10 bucks on shipping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 Yes it works. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 The more universal gasket might need a little trimming, as on other applications, but in general, thermostats are pretty much one of two sizes, with the more recent designs being a little smaller (think small block Chevy) as the larger one is more what I term "Chrysler Robert Shaw" size, as on the '60s era 383/413/440 engines. Sometimes, what does happen is that the gasket surface of the thermostat housing can degrade (pit) or the material might warp. The "warp" seemed to be more prevalent with the aftermarket chrome items than with the non-chrome items. Usually, there is a small "bead" raised area on the housing to increase gasket compression for better sealing. This might get removed with "dressing" that gasket surface to remove accumulate corrosion from it. Corrosion/pitting can also affect the "neck" of the housing, too. In this case, of course it'll need to be cleaned, but the added surface area can be places where sealer can help things along, but getting the clamp a little tighter is necessary, too, for compression of the rubber against the housing. I have been using the black hi-temp silicone sealer, thinly-smeared on all gasket surfaces, allowed to cure overnight, on all paper or cork-style gaskets for many years, with great results. Other than sealing, it's much easier to clean up later on than some other time-honored sealants. A while back, I ran across a GM bulletin about how to correctly install hoses on barbed housings. I thought this was a little elementary, but as I read the bulletin, it all made sense from an engineering point of view. Basically, place the formed or non-formed over the barb with enough material past the barb for the hose clamp to comfortably be placed. No need to have a surplus of material past the barb, but enough for the clamp to be placed just past the barb itself. If the hose was pushed down well past the barb, and the clamp placed at the end of the hose, "an area" past the barb could accumulate "material" with time and compromise sealing. So, push the hose past the barb and allow for the width of the (band style, in this case) clamp on the hose past the barb. Then apply the clamp just past the edge of the barb and clamp it down. Be careful to not have the edge of the clamp ON the edge of the barb, but just past it such that the clamp's force is applied to the flat part of the housing, not the edge of the barb (which might compromise durability over time). Then tighten firmly. I always feel it's good to go back and recheck the clamps after several hot/cold cycles, Same with the thermostat housing fasteners. As with many things, the least amount of "tightening" that is consistent with reliable sealing, with a slight amount of additional snugness for good measure. But NOT like the old "as much as you can turn it, then 1/2 turn more". Perhaps all your seep might require is a little more torque after some hot/cold cycles? Hope this might help, NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 12 hours ago, 1956322 said: Has anyone tried the auto parts store gaskets.. They're a little lager with the oblong holes...I havIA minor leak after replacing my housing..I used the supplied gasket and a little sealant.. Hoping I just didn't clean it will enough.. Anyhow no one has the"correct" gasket locally and I really don't feel like spending 10 bucks on shipping They are a poor fit and also thinner. Get some 0.060 thick gasket material. Save the image (full size to your computer) and print (in the print dialogue select "actual size"). Cut out the printed image and glue to gasket paper (label glue) and cut out your NOS gasket. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1956322 Posted June 17, 2017 Author Share Posted June 17, 2017 I ended up using a fel pro 35063 gasket it fit the sealing area perfectly but does hang over some.. Discovered my new water outlet was warped some.. In all honesty I can't say if it came like that or if I caused it by making things tighter to try to seal.. Also took the metal file to my water manifold really to clean it up more then anything.. So far so good we'll see... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1956322 Posted June 18, 2017 Author Share Posted June 18, 2017 Hey beemon I have an odd request for you.. Seeing as how you have your motor apart I figure you might have access to the thermostat to water manifold bolts.. If you do can you measure the length of them please 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 The bolts for the thermostat housing are 1 inch long. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1956322 Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 Awesome thank you so are mine:) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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