Fuel level on a 65

[jframe]

I installed a new, 90 ohm sender in my 65 yesterday to try to solve mthe fuel gauge issue that has plagued me for the last year and a half. Didn't seem to change much; I put in 17 gallons to fill it up, and it still only rose to between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Kinda at wit's end; can't see it being wiring, since it only has one, and I figure if it was a ground, it would always show either full or empty. The old unit had a connection between the potentiometer and wire terminal at the top that was broken in half, so I was sure it was the issue. I have a used gauge to try once I get it home and out of the body shop, so barring any other ideas, this is my next step I suppose. Such a simple system to be such a pain in the rump, lol.

[telriv]

You need to remove the fuel tank & sending unit. Get a ruler & measure to the bottom & top of tank. Let's say it's 10". With the sending unit grounded & the wire hooked up use the ruler to measure the float at 5"". Should read 1/2 tank. Bend float arm so float is at 5". All most willing to bet the float arm is bent wrong & the float is hitting the top of the tank before it reads full.

Just a thought.

[jframe]

Yup, good possibility hadnt thought of that one. Full of gas now, so it will prolly be after the bodywork is fixed and the car is painted before I can run it all out. Sucker is heavy with 20 gallons.

[1965rivgs]

22 hours ago, jframe said:

I installed a new, 90 ohm sender in my 65 yesterday to try to solve mthe fuel gauge issue that has plagued me for the last year and a half. Didn't seem to change much; I put in 17 gallons to fill it up, and it still only rose to between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Kinda at wit's end; can't see it being wiring, since it only has one, and I figure if it was a ground, it would always show either full or empty. The old unit had a connection between the potentiometer and wire terminal at the top that was broken in half, so I was sure it was the issue. I have a used gauge to try once I get it home and out of the body shop, so barring any other ideas, this is my next step I suppose. Such a simple system to be such a pain in the rump, lol.

Remember "ground" is a matter of degree, you may have a "good" ground or a "bad"/partial ground. The sending unit itself is an example of a ground in varying degrees. The degree to which the sending unit grounds versus the gauge is what determines the position of the fuel gauge needle.

To test the gauge provide both a full ground and a full open to eliminate the gauge and then move on to the sender. This is first step can be done without getting into removing the fuel tank.

  Tom