Tom_Overfield Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) The following photos are of how my son and I installed the electric fuel pump. Tucked up and almost invisibe,even better, the wiring harness has a drop down in the rear just for the electric pump. I will only be using it to move the fuel forward to the carb, and on hot starts if that becomes a problem. The brass union visible is connection of the fuel pump to the gas line going forward. You can see the one bracket we made to hold the line going back to the fuel pump for the gas tank, there is another one tucked into the frame for the rear of that line that's goes into the intake side of the pump. Where it shows the 180 going into the pump, it appears the gas line is touching something, it's not, all tucked inside the frame and clamped solid with the invisible bracket back there, the bracket is just above the nut and washer visible in the under side of the frame. Edited January 19, 2017 by Tom_Overfield To add photos and to add information (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19tom40 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 That is a neat installation. It looks like you did not use any rubber hose that can lead to a vacuum leak on the supply side of the mechanical fuel pump. The Zephyr and Ford fuel pumps will fail to prime due to their location at the top of the engine, if there are any vacuum leaks in the supply side. The vacuum leaks are also a source of "vapor lock", as they lead to insufficient fuel delivery. If you did not do it, I would remove the lines and solder the ferrule to the line as Ford did. This will ensure a good connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Overfield Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Thanks Tom, I put a mighty vac on the fuel pump side of the gas line, no leaks at all. Those brass ferrells and fittings only need tightened properly and I have never had a problem with them leaking. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beltfed Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I put my in same place but used rubber hose as I couldn't find a pump and fuel filter that used anything other than hose barbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntzNSam Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 We want to keep the dust on our fire extinguisher. We only use steel line with shortest possible sections of rubber coupling hose as needed. Use the best hose you can - overkill- SAE J30R7 or better. SAE J30R9 is readily available. Copper is pretty, rubber is easy, but flames suck. First thing to do on a new purchase - replace ALL the rubber plumbing. Thanks Chuck & Sally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Overfield Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Steel line from front to rear, fuel pump inlet and outlet were for 5/16 hose. Went to a parts store that was local and been in business for over 60 years. They just happened to have two fittings that fit 5/16 hose on one end, the other end was a male 1/4 thread that allowed us to then connect everything with four brass 1/4 inch Ferrell's and a a short piece of 1/8 copper to connect back to the steel line. Maybe two inches of rubber fuel hose to connect this up on both ends. Going from 5/16 to 1/4 had me wondering how to do that as simply as possible. These fittings fit the ticket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38ShortopConv. Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I sat pump on top of cross member, drivers side well up out of sight, bolted clamp to spare factory hole on front side of cross member. Cut steel fuel line, cleaned up, pushed brass olives [ferels] on, slipped high pressure rubber fuel line over olives, clamped both sides. Only use for priming after parked up, been there for years, checked two months ago no leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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