SpecialEducation Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 First off, the accelerator switch and starter relay have been disabled on this car as long as we've had it. There's a pushbutton that goes straight to the starter. It'll even crank (but not start) with the key off. So yesterday, dad gets in to start it, but when he lets go of the button, it just keeps cranking. The switch checks good, so the sticking seems to be at the starter. Anyone seen this before? The starter was rebuilt about 12 years ago. I'm guessing there's some contacts in there that need filed, but I'm open to suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 It's your starter relay. If the starter works, but keeps cranking, then your starter is good. There are no contacts in there, except for the throw out solenoid, and if it is engaging, then the solenoid is okay (it cuts out when the relay cuts out ie lack of voltage). Couple months ago I had this issue, except the starter engaged while I was driving, loaded up, and turned the armature into a live grenade. The pictures were gruesome. How did your dad start it? Have you tried disconnecting the relay and jumping the starter with a 12V source to rule out the relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialEducation Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 The relay is no longer part of the equation, and it hasn't been as long as we've owned the car. Does this look like a legit relay to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) ... Your issue is probably the push button or somewhere in line. The starter seems to be working just fine, try testing the push button contacts? The factory system is pretty bullet proof and easy to figure out what is and is not working. It will be hard to diagnose your specific issue with your unique starter system. You can't find a relay that looks NOS anymore, but NAPA part #ECH HR201 works. The mounting base needed to be bent but it works. I highly suggest finding some type of relay at least to put back in there. It's a safety feature to prevent something like a stuck starter. It looks like the arm on your original starter relay is missing, probably the reason why the push button was installed? Edited October 2, 2016 by Beemon (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 I have had the electrical contact on the starter solenoid plunger weld itself to the stud contact under the solenoid plastic cap.Then you get a permanent mechanical connection. Last time I when to an auto parts store to get one the guy just said "Duh." Here is one of the GM kits from Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELCO-STARTER-SOLENOID-TERMINAL-STUD-REPAIR-KIT-GM-1949188-NOS-/371138980577?hash=item56699b6ae1:g:i7AAAOSwd4tT5Rpu&vxp=mtr On the older solenoids with a "start" wire on the solenoid the start wire can also weld and the engine won't shut off with the key. That's a fun one, too. Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialEducation Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 That's exactly what I expect, Bernie. I'm hoping that we can file the contacts and get going again. We got the starter out last night, so we'll start tearing it down shortly and see what it looks like. I've been working to put a local all-Buick car show together for a year and a half now, and the show is next weekend. I don't think I've got time for eBay parts or to send it out. If I can't clean up the points to get it going, I sure hope I can find some locally. I'm sure my rebuilder on Oklahoma has them. A road trip may be in my future... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Just shutting down and heading out to the garage- You will find a pretty well burned post if that was the problem. After looking up the kit on Ebay I figured I should pick up at least one or two. They were cheap. Good stuff for the Murphy's Law shelf. Today "I" get to examine all the details on the Snap On mid-rise scissors lift I bought myself for my birthday. Better than a computer. Bernie 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 If you suspect the solenoid, you can get them new from a local NAPA or equivalent. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttotired Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Most likely solenoid contacts, but be wary that sometimes a starter will stay engaged if the engine doesnt fire. I have only noticed this in GM (dont matter what GM) vehicles. Its caused by the force of the pinion to the flywheel when cranking and the depth the teeth engage as well. On a chevy (with the bolts going up from underneath) I normally leave them loose when replacing the starter, give it a crank with the coil dis connected and tighten the bolts while the starter is cranking. It pushes the starter out a bit so the teeth dont bind in as hard. Someone else was having starter issues recently and I put a link up to a "dixie" starter to suit an "International" thats an identical starter except you have to use your original nose cone. Contact sets should be very easy to get hold of (especially for you guys in the US) as the delco soleniod was basically common to just about every US GM car built for 20 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialEducation Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 I suppose I should preface this with the fact that the starter had previously been cutting out prematurely. We initially had suspected the pushbutton and dad picked up a spare, but it had been well behaved recently so we left it alone. Both symptoms are consistent with a failing contactor so it doesn't surprise me much. On on the bench today, the starter pulled 210 amps with no load. I don't have the spec in front of me, but that seems pretty high to me. Solenoid assembly is in Oklahoma City, and it should be here Tuesday. $70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialEducation Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 Opened up the motor, looks great inside. Replace the solenoid, and we're all good. Verified wiring goes straight from the battery to the switch to the starter; no relays, no fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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