GaryP65 Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 (edited) So I've asked this on anther post but no luck so I'll try a new one. The brackets don't seem to match up with the system I got from Myers. The 1st bracket lines up with the exhaust pipe. However, the bracket after the muffler does not seem to work with the tailpipe that goes over the differential. Also unsure about the brackets provided. The large Muffler clamps do not have any holes drilled for bolting. The 'Y' shaped bracket doesn't seem to have a home. Edited September 25, 2016 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 The large brackets supplied go around the outside of the muffler and will have to be drilled to match up with the holes in the lower flange of the chassis. The short leg of the bracket will also need to be drilled for a bolt to tighten it around the muffler. The Y -shaped bracket attaches to the flange on the front of the rear crossmember (the plate that goes over the petrol tank). You will find two holes there which may or may not still contain rivets. These will need to be removed to fit the bolts. The brackets marked in your photo above can be dispensed with. I any event the front one appears not to be original. If that bracket is using one of the holes meant for the large muffler brackets you may have to shorten the engine pipe so the muffler can move forward. I take that you have a tail pipe to suit. This should determine the correct placement of the muffler. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Hi Gary, these photos of my touring car chassis may help with muffler mounting. I did have trouble getting the tailpipe in place to match up with the 'Y' bracket. I ended up putting an extra bend or two in the tail pipe to get things matched up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 Awesome! Thank you both for your help. However, I do not see any holes for the Y bracket. Looks like I'm drilling. For the brackets already on the car, I removed the front one. For the rear one, looking closer, it seems that the hole is not the same diameter as the pipe. So I removed that one as well. I mocked the muffler up and it looks like I need to chop about 3 inches off the exhaust pipe. The tail pipe sits perfectly with the bend centered right over the differential. The crappy part of this is now I have to remove the gas tank so I can drill and mount the Y bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 I did have to drill holes for the Y bracket (I hadn't drilled them yet in 2nd photo). In the 3rd photo you can see (part of) the Y bracket bolted in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 All done. All good. Driving around and now need to adjust for lack of power. Barely made it up a small hill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Probably not enough advance. If you can't advance the spark to the point where the engine starts running stoopid it's running too late all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Did you check compression? It should be around 50 psi. Have you followed the MIM for setting static timing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 Compression is good. If I remember correctly, the lowest I have is 47psi.... Timing should be good but it is on my list of things to verify. First thing I'm looking at is the carburetor. Adjustment screw is all the way lean so I may need to reposition the rocker. I'm sure their good (but will check) the plugs. I will say that I don't think my timing advance linkage moves enough. It only seems to move the distributor about 1/2". Also agree to Craig on the advance. How about valve adjustment? That's the last thing I want to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Do you mean reposition the pinion/rack engagement? If you needed choke to run at all, I'd say yes. If it's off the other way (way rich), the plugs should show/smell it. Half inch sounds about right on advance linkage. It should be pretty obvious if you are getting a lot of lost motion somewhere. The valves on mine had way larger gaps than they should have. It still started but I never drove it that way so I'm not sure how much impact on power. Be vary careful to not set gap too tight or when warmed up the valve may not close completely (a good way to burn valves). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted October 5, 2016 Author Share Posted October 5, 2016 I'm using valve's as a last option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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