Just About Ready to Fire it Up

[Guest]

I have completed the rebuild, assembly and installation of the original '65 300 and 300 ST in my Skylark and will soon be ready to crank it up for the first time. It seems like I have gone over everything at least a dozen times but am still very nervous about the moment of truth. This is my first V8 and first transmission overhaul and even though everything went together beautifully and I followed the manual to the letter, it seems like I am forgetting something very basic.<P>If someone wouldn't mind taking a few minutes to reply with a basic list of pre-start-up checks, I would appriciate it very much.<P>I have reconditioned, rebuilt or replaced everything including the gas tank, radiator, power steering pump, starter and every engine component.<P>Also, when installing the required 19 pints of trans. fluid, should I put it all in at once before start-up or should I maybe install part or most of it before and then finish with the rest after it has a chance to get pumped into the internals.<P>Thanks in advance for any comments, suggestions or luck wishes.<P>Regards,<BR>jezac

[palbuick]

One of the most overlooked item on a rebuild, and installutation is a good Ground.<BR>I have run across this frequently, myself included.<BR>Good Luck<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

[Guest]

Greeting fellow money bags...I say this as I too am getting near the moment of truth and Buick motors are not cheap to rebuild...<BR> Anyway, I asked my Dad same question before I dropped mine in...he said to crank it over with plugs out to get oil pressure to where its needed, no plugs means less drag on internals without all their oil when you first crank over.<BR> Check timing....# 1 on top with timing marks lined up = fire in the hole....firing order too....make sure you have number one on the cap lined up with where the rotor points with timing marks lined up as I said prior.<BR> with P/steering, make sure you have fluid in it before too or the new seals will die in short order.<BR> Trans fluid...go about 3/4 full...a bit more perhaps, fire it and recheck trans.<BR> Engine oil....make sure its there in pan before you crank it around...would suck in air otherwise.<BR> I too am finishing up mine too...trans also on my 55....Check, double check and redouble check, make a check list and be positive everything is done....hose clamps tight....a clamp that looks tight although just slightly snug would blow off as car builds up cooling sys. pressure not to mention make a mess of your fresh engine.<BR> Water in radiator???? make sure its there!!!<BR> Gas in tank....Also, I would (if possible) have a 2nd set of eyes go over everything on your list...2 minds are better than 1 <BR> Also, when you do fire it, have a 2nd guy(or gal) handy to tell you of leaks, etc.<BR> Safety...a fire extinguisher and garden hose....Just in case...better to be safe than sorry.<P> Good Luck and remember to keep the rpm's up around 2000-2500 for around 20-30 minutes to break cam in<P> Let Us Know How It Goes, don55<P> Drop me an E If anyone can add anything more to help me as well when my moment of truth comes<P> dlw29@hotmail.com

[Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel]

Don55 has a good list! I could have used it a month ago, saved me cleaning all that antifreeze off my new engine! Be sure to have a good battery. (eliminate easy unknowns)<BR>There is great satisfaction in driving a car you have rebuilt yourself. I'm off now to drive my '65 Riviera! <BR><P>------------------<BR>Ted Nagel<BR>65 WildcatConvSuperWcat<BR>65 WildcatAutoSuperWcat<BR>65 Wildcat4spdSuperWcat<BR>65 Riviera Wildcat 445<BR>65 Special Wagon 455<BR>70 GS Stage1 4speed

[Guest]

Thanks so much for your feedback Wildcat 65!!!<P> I'm a rookie at this new engine thing too so advice is always welcome and whole heartedly appreciated.<P> Thanks!!! don55

[Guest]

Thanks for all the good advice. I will follow it all. <P>What is the best grade/weight break in oil to use and how long until it should be changed?<BR> <BR>Regards,<BR>jezac

[Guest]

I have been delayed by a rear end overhaul so it will be another week or so.<P>No coolant for about first 30 seconds, sounds logical.<P>Do you run 20-50 year-round?<P>Regards,<BR>jezac

[Guest]

Check the timing, especially the firing order. Also make sure the distributer isn't 180 deg out. Have a fire estinguisher handy, a halon or non powdered type is preferable to make for a smaller clean up. Prime the oil pump with an old distributer (preferably), or by cranking the motor with the plugs out and coil disconected. You did put assembly lube on the cam,right? Fire the motor with straight water in the radiator, you can add antifreeze later, and the clean up from possible leaks is easier. Keep an eye on the temp gauge while breaking in. It's easy to overheat at that RPM without the airflow of driving going through the radiator. GOOD LUCK!!

[old-tank]

Hope by now you fired it up and all is OK. On the oil...use the same oil you will use in the engine after break in (unless you are planning to use synthetic)...I use 20W-50 here in Texas. Another way to prime the engine with oil is to install an old distibutor with the gear removed and spin with a drill...some times you can find a tool that does the same thing. Be sure it is FULL of oil when you start since the oil filter will take one quart and it will take another quart to fill all the oil passages in a dry motor.<BR>I always fire it up for the 1st 30 seconds with no coolant...just in case I have to disassemble I won't have that mess (shows my level of confidence doesn't it) Really this was suggested by an old mechanic who says this will help the head gaskets seal better.<BR>After the initial break in drive as you normally would (unless you are drag racing)...just avoid prolonged idling.<BR>Change oil and filter at 1000 mile and at 3000 miles and then every 3000 miles...should be good for 300,000 miles.<BR>Let us know how it turns out.<BR>Willie

[old-tank]

20W-50 year round in south Texas

[Guest]

The overheating problem can be avoided if you place a household fan in front of the radiator. But still, keep an eye on the temp.<P>------------------<BR>George C. Thomas<BR>70 GS 455 12.teens<BR>86 GN Low 13's/ high 12's

[Guest]

Thanks for all the good ideas! <P>Yes, I applied assembly lube to the cam, lifters, timing chain and gears.<P>This may be a stupid question but since I packed the oil pump with vaseline (per shop manual), should I still go ahead and spin the oil pump with an old distributor before start-up? <P>I was also planning to prime the fuel lines and carb. by splicing in a fuel pump between the filter and carb., actuating the pump until the float bowl has gas and then reconnecting the line to the carb. What do you think of this since I have a new tank and dry lines? I was going to consider a permanent electric pump later if needed.<P>If I can finish the rear end work and brake bleeding this week I am hoping to have her running by Sunday. <P>Again, the interest you all have shown and assistance provided here is fantastic.<P>Regards,<BR>jezac

[Guest]

I have not used the vaseline technique, but I assume it works. Since you need to prime your fuel pump also, I think cranking the engine with the plugs out and coil disconected would work fine. Crank in short bursts so you don't overheat the starter- about ten secs or so. Keep repeating until you have oil pressure and fuel- the fuel will take longer than the oil pressure. You might reduce this time by partially filling the float bowl in the carb.<BR> Good Luck!!!

[old-tank]

Another trick I have used on manual transmission cars is tow the car (in gear) with the spark plugs out...this primes the oil and fuel...just put the plugs in and fire it up. This also works in a car that has been stored for a long time...squirt some oil in the spark plug holes and tow away.<BR>Willie

[Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel]

I better follow my own advice. I lent my sister my 95 riv, and went to the garage and fired up the Wagon, which promptly split a antifreeze hose, parked that, then tried the GS, battery dead, then the Riv(old reliable)another dead battery...This was friday the 13TH!!!<P>------------------<BR>Ted Nagel<BR>65 WildcatConvSuperWcat<BR>65 WildcatAutoSuperWcat<BR>65 Wildcat4spdSuperWcat<BR>65 Riviera Wildcat 445<BR>65 Special Wagon 455<BR>70 GS Stage1 4speed

[DugsSin]

Ted, A car that loves you will always break down at home. I say Fri 13 was your lucky day.

[Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel]

You are right! I laughed hard at myself that day. My dad always had a few incredible cars around when I was growing up, but he has told me to be aware when posessions become liabilities instead of assets...If ever a day that was true...not yet, but if I don't get working on my Wildcat it will become a disasembled liability!

[Guest]

So-is it running???