CatBird Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) 1947 Lincoln Continental V12 Need to remove oil pan. Dropped wishbone rubber ball. Removed starter. Bolts from oil pan. Dropped exhaust from manifolds . Pushed wishbone down as much as safe. Stuck here. Oil pan is loose. What next should i do? Best place to buy oil pan gasket set? I can get an entire engine set for $107 at RockAuto Edited July 8, 2016 by Bill Caddyshack (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38ShortopConv. Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Use a scissor jack to lower wishbone, remove steering arm one end, jiggle and twist pan, turn crank to clear rear interference, its tricky, be aware of oil level float. Raise front of car. Play safe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 24 minutes ago, 38ShortopConv. said: Use a scissor jack to lower wishbone, remove steering arm one end, jiggle and twist pan, turn crank to clear rear interference, its tricky, be aware of oil level float. Raise front of car. Play safe. Will try later today. Thank you, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beltfed Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 All the above for sure. Plus I would pull the oil float up as far as possible and put a piece of masking tape around the stem to be sure the float was out of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 yes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 Got it loose, but a good friend worked on it. I have never heard such cursing from this guy. Would make a sailor blush and this is not him <grin>. I hurt my back trying to start a Model T and could not help. Thanks for the help. Whew! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38ShortopConv. Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Great Caddyshack, well that's the easy bit, now to get it back up. Hi Beltfed, just got my Columbia going again after 23 years, thanks for speedo drive photos by right rear wheel, had the mount made and welded to axle housing as per original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 23 minutes ago, 38ShortopConv. said: Great Caddyshack, well that's the easy bit, now to get it back up. Want to be sure it is correct so we don't EVER have to do this again! Know about pulling the oil float up. Want to be sure to get the right gaskets and everything in place. Thinking about inspecting the main bearings, maybe with plastigauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abelincoln Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 If you can rotate the crank to the position where most of the throws are up, especially in front, you'll have a easier time getting pan off. Abe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Thanks. We will move the crank further. We should have done this before we removed the starter. We do have a tool that grips with the teeth in the flywheel, There is no nut on the harmonic balancer, as on other cars, like GM, and we need to move the engine with the flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38ShortopConv. Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 If you take spark plugs out motor may rotate when you swing evenly on 2 opposite fan blades. Peep in side of pan with torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 (edited) We got the reinstall done on the oil pan. It was very difficult. Put in 5 quarts of oil, replaced the filter. The oil float stays at the bottom level, the indicator. Did some research and found some people suggested another quart when changing filter, but the float level does not float <grin> Thought that the float was filled with oil, but since the pan was removed for a couple of days and no oil leaked from the float. It also felt light enough when hand lifted from underneath while the pan was still off. The indicator rod moves freely. We had pulled the float indicator up with as the pan was replaced so it would not get caught or bent. Was worried about overfilling oil. No leaks from reinstall. Any ideas about the float? Also appears we have an high volume pump. See picture. error uploading pic, "There was a problem processing the uploaded file. -200" Tried at different sizes 89kb tom 184kb . Edited July 27, 2016 by Bill Caddyshack (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 Finally got the pic to upload. Is this a high volume pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry butcher Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 The pump looks to be a stock pump . The engine in my '48LC had a high volume installed when the engine was rebuilt ( previous owner) and the pump had to be rotated , new mounting hole drilled and tapped. They did not reinstall the "float cage " that the float rides in. The float was destroyed in the 1st 30 seconds of start up. Make sure the float is not hung up somewhere in the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 28, 2016 Author Share Posted July 28, 2016 Made a test drive and the float began working, however the oil pressure shows zero, so we shut it down and pulled it back into the shop and will look further. Just got the car and sorting it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abelincoln Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Mine takes 6 quarts, but seems like you should have some pressure. The hot tip seems to be use a Melling M-15 high volume pump. Takes a different pick-up tube and screen from Mac's or others. Abe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatBird Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 3 hours ago, abelincoln said: Mine takes 6 quarts, but seems like you should have some pressure. The hot tip seems to be use a Melling M-15 high volume pump. Takes a different pick-up tube and screen from Mac's or others. Abe The passenger head is about 20 degrees hotter than the driver side. P side at about 220degrees and driver side at 200degrees.. IR Thermometer. Dash needle at pegged TEMP. Radiator cap at 4lbs. Oil was at about 30 cold idle and down to zero at hot idle. No oil pressure up at revs from idle. Upper radiator hoses have individual thermostats. Could hotter on one side be a timing issue? Seems obvious that two six cylinder separate engines joined at the common crank. Checking thermostats in hoses might be sticking on one side? What other reasons one side hotter? One of associates at Boos thought my pump is HV. We do put it back in. Can anyone give me a best answer from my picture above? Should I buy a Melling M-15? I should have a V12 Engine Manual today. I had two misfires and was sent two manuals that were about fuel pumps only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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