1946 Chrysler New Yorker

[Guest 46 New Yorker]

Hello, All
I just bought a 1946 New Yorker.  The car was a daily driver in 1997 but has been in a garage now for 19 years.  Many things to do before I can make this old fellow young again.  I hope to find others that own the 46-48 Chrysler and can share experiences and photos. I am looking forward to restoring the interior of the car aswell as the mechanical work. I will post photos as we go.

 

So far we have cleaned out the junk from the car, rebuilt the carb, installed new fuel pump, new 6 volt battery and replaced the spark plugs.  We will try to start engine later after a few other preparatory projects have been completed.

 

Right now I would like to get a photo of the passenger side of the engine and all the way around the carburetor.  I can find lots of pics from the drivers side but no pics from the passenger side of the motor.  I have concluded that only the driver of the car takes the pictures of the motor.  There is something not right with the carburetor and I can't figure it out.  I suspect it an errant carburetor made from different model parts. 

Any one that has a 46-48 New Yorker I could use a couple of photos from your car.

 

Left inner fender, next to horn, (the terminal strip)

 

All around the carb

[unimogjohn]

It looks like they had the float set high and it leaked fuel out of the air pressure relief holes.  So they plugged them with wood screws.  Not a great idea.  Looks like the carb is due for a cleaning and rebuilding.  I could not see anything out of sorts from the pic you have.  A better view of the carb would be helpful.  

 

Have you drained the old fuel out of the gas tank?  You should.  

[Guest 46 New Yorker]

The two hole are vacuum passages that  go to a kick-down switch I do not have on this carb. It turns out that that carb is wrong for this car.  I bought a kit for an AAVS-2 that this carb is and quite a few parts did not fit.  This was the first clue. A gentleman in this forum has just given me info that I should have a an AAV2-2BBl  So now I will hunt down that part.  I will rebuild the entire fuel system including a cleaned gas tank before the car is started.  Right now I have a new fuel pump and a beautiful rebuilt carburetor that does not exactly go on this car.  

Thanks, Bruce

[Guest BillP]

There's a saying in the construction business to the effect that 90% of all problems with a house are related to water; either getting where it's not wanted or not getting out where it's supposed to.

 

A corollary of that applies to old cars. Most problems are related to the previous owner having attempted to either re-engineer the car or to make a repair with whatever parts that happen to be handy. If wood screws in the incorrect carburetor are all you find, you'll be getting off light.

 

Nice car, have fun fixing it up. Chrysler knew how to build them.  

[c49er]

The horn relay on certain 1946-48 chrysler cars can be located up by the voltage regulator @ the LF inner fender panel mount bracket or @ the LF inner panel in front of the radiator.next to the head and park light terminal strip.

I think that's what those loose wires go to... for sure if a couple wires are green.

Edited February 29, 2016 by c49er (see edit history)

[Guest 46 New Yorker]

Gee, Thanks for the comments, pictures and  and info.  Yes, it is a missing  horn relay. I will be visiting E Bay again.  I am going to keep those wood screws in the glove box for an emergency.  I could use them to mount the horn relay when I get it. 

Bruce

[Guest brujan]

Well a lot has been accomplished and we are now able to drive our cool old Chrysler.  After rebuilding brakes, new hoses, belt, fuel pump, carburetor, battery and other things I can't remember the old fellow was finally started and driven from its 20 year resting place to our garage last Saturday.  After driving the car a new list of needs turned up.  The most inconvenient defect is no charging of the battery.  The voltage regulator was junk that has been fooled with too much by its previous owner so I replaced it with a new OEM regulator and after polarizing the generator the system charges until the engine is turned off and sets over night.  The generator needs another polarizing excitation before it will make output again.  I have check the voltage setting on the breaker relay in the new regulator and it correctly closes at 6.5 volts.  The issue seems to be that the armature will only output 1 volt until I polarize it again.  After it is polarized the armature will jump to 7 volts at fast idle with the circuit open.  I am suspecting a bad armature??? I have a new one coming.  In studying the wiring around the generator I have discovered that according to an electrical drawing of this car there is a wire between a terminal on the starter solenoid and the armature terminal of the generator.  ?????   This wire is not in place on my car.  Does anyone know what the purpose of this odd connection is between a starter and the generator? 

I will post pictures soon of our new ride we sure love to cruse the streets of Lindsborg in it.  Were looking for a name but don't have one yet.

 

[Morgan Wright]

I noticed the same thing on my wiring diagram for a 1940 Buick. There is a wire from the starter relay to the armature terminal on the voltage regulator. This wire does not branch or go anyplace else, and only goes to the starter relay, not the starter itself. The only time this wire is ever energized with electricity is when the car is being started, so my first guess was that it was some sort of "automatic polarization" system, where the generator is polarized every time you start the car. I have no idea, and I'm probably wrong because it was just a hunch. My other hunch is that it was designed so that, when the car starts and the generator starts producing voltage, the extra voltage shuts the solenoid off to disengage it after the car starts.

 

I can't think of any other reason why they would put a wire there. The wire is in place in my car, I don't know what it's for.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

 

 Morgan, your "other hunch" is correct. I do not have the actual wiring diagram in front of me at the moment, so may not bee 100% accurate. That wire is a ground for the starter relay. When generator is not ginning, it is grounded and starter can operate. As soon as it starts ginning, the ground is broken, rendering starter inoperable.

 

  Ben