Adjusting Steering Gear ('25)

[MikeC5]

I would like to get rid of the play in my steering (about 1" left/right at steering wheel OD) which from careful observation, appears largely due to the steering box.  The MIM mentions adjusting the worm-sector wheel mesh but is silent on what is a 'good' adjustment.  Any tips/advice on getting this set correctly?  Is it possible to eliminate the free play?

Edited January 16, 2016 by MikeC5 (see edit history)

[22touring]

I would like to ask the same question!

 

I don't seem to be able to adjust the lost motion out of the steering shaft.

 

I have heard that it is possible to rotate the worm wheel in the steering box 180 degrees in order to have the worm engage an unworn part of the worm wheel, but I don't know how to do this, or maybe this is not the problem.  I'd really appreciate it if anybody could tell me how to adjust the play out of the box, and if that fails, in reasonable detail how to rotate the worm wheel .  Thanks very much.

[Spinneyhill]

I don't know how yours is set up, but my 1930 DC has the same problem.

 

The worm is held on a keyway as is the steering wheel. There is no rotation available. If you cut a new keyway slot in the worm wheel inside, you could rotate it but I don't think you will gain anything. The worm turns so there is no less-used side, only the ends. I believe they were made with slight tapers so they were tight in the middle (straight ahead) and looser on the ends (in a turn) and as they wear, they become looser in the middle. Eventually you can't adjust out the play because it binds at the ends (in a turn).

 

About all you can do, afaik, is to rebush everything to very small clearance and put up with the play. I have about the same amount - it reduced from 2+" when it was rebushed. Look after the bearings too; they may not be available. Your choice of tyres may help: some "grab" white lines and seal edges etc.. I have been told any plating or metal spraying onto the worm to build it up for regrinding will just peel off because of the action of the sector - the shear stresses are large.

 

Remember to use steering box lubricant, NOT chassis grease. Grease does not flow back so after the first turn the grease has been wiped off the worm. Steering box lube is a self levelling "grease", like a really thick oil. It comes out of the bottle easier if you put the bottle in hot water for a while.

Edited January 16, 2016 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[MikeC5]

22T, rotating the sector gear would require removing the steering box from the car (I'm pretty sure it would bump into the engine block before it came all the way out).  But remaol isn't all that difficult.  Once you get it out of there, it is quite simple to disassemble and rotate the gear.  The only hard part was cleaning up the gear enough so a mark with its original position would not wipe off (it did wipe off, which is why I had to do it a 2nd time - see link below).

 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/188689-25-steering-gearbox-teardown/?hl=%2Bsteering+%2Bgearbox

[MikeC5]

Well I adjusted it so that there is maybe 1/2 inch play in either direction (wheels off ground).  I'm trying John Deere Corn Head Grease in there which is a semi-liquid grease that goes to all liquid with elevated temperature.