Rande77 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Hi all, can anyone tell me how to remove the shoes on my 32 PB The front shoe on the passenger side has been binding and worn down to the rivets. I want to remove the shoes and get it relined. Sorry but I haven't dealt with this type of setup and could use some guidance. Pictures attachedP.S. And info on parts numbers would also be greatly appreciated.i.e. Wheel cylinder part #, spring part # etc. I know parts for the 32 are scarce but I would like to keep it as original as possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Remove the spring by holding one end with a pair of ViseGrips and pull. I believe on your year there are 2 "C" clips on the bottom pivots. Remove them. Slide the shoes out of the main clips. Immediately place a C clamp around the brake cylinder to prevent the pistons from coming out. That's pretty well it. I just take the shoes into a local shop and they put new shoes on for a reasonable charge. I don't bother. I'm not sure if they got into the "short shoe,long shoe" thing yet on your car but if they have make sure you put the shoes on their correct end. The bottom pivots have an offset in them that adjusts the position of the bottom of the shoe relative to the drum. There should be a similiar adjustment on the rear of the backing plate for the top of the shoe. There used to be a gizmo for adjusting the shoes so they touched the bottom and top of the drum at the same time. I just do it "by ear" and "feel". The bottom adjustment is the hairyest. It has to be "unlocked" at the rear and then adjusted from the front. And every time you think you have adjustment right, the locking nut on the back disturbs the setting! So it's a matter of adjust and try the drum etc. etc. Adjust the shoe out towards the drum and try again. When it "slightly" drags that's about as good as it's going to get for these old brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) You will have to VERY carefully pull the two anchor pins on the bottoms of the shoes. Be certain to make a point of noticing their positions as they need to be put back in in the same position as prior to removal. You will NOT get the shoes off without doing so. I don't recall any "C" clips having to be removed. Edited December 18, 2015 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GK1918 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 After cleaning you should see stamped arrows on the bottom anchors and yes remove C clips the arrows are for refferencewhile adjusting eccentric anchors. Some drums had a slit where you could stick a feeler gauge on the bottom of the shoe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rande77 Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Hi guys thanks for the help, do the anchor pins screw out after removing rear lock nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rande77 Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 IS this the feeler gauge slit Mr GK1918 speaks of? Shown on drum picture attached Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 You will need to twist the anchor pins as you remove them. Yes, it looks to be a feeler gauge hole on the drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 You may want to check under the end caps of your wheel cylinders . Looks to be leakage of fluid that's eating paint above axle spindle . this can also damage the bearing .The bearing and at lest seal have numbers and are readily available .Do a search on making your own install tool ,it is wood and all thread .Ply 33 may have on his site of Plymouths the First Decade . That window on drum is for inspection to adjust you need to do both shoes tops and bottoms . Have Fun Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rande77 Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Hi Tom, I didn't see any adjustment screws for the top of the shoes. Where are they located? Thanks for your helpBob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Here is some information you may be able to use....from my 1931 DB manual, but is basically the same.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) The info keiser 31, posted is what you need the top adjusts, on outside ,back . It is done first to get setting and last after wheels are back on . Also wheel cylinders are rebuild able ,no one makes an 1 1/4" straight thur bored replacement . Meaning if pitted you must have resleeved . Hagens on west coast did a great job on mine . PLY33 's site I mention above is a must for you it has all the numbers of parts and info on diy repairs plus great reference material . Note if you donot want to make tool .Bratton's Co Ford model A and T company sells a stamped unit that should work for under $50. Call to verify first , I noticed after finishing mine. Your Welcome Edited December 18, 2015 by ArticiferTom (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 My info remains correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rande77 Posted December 24, 2015 Author Share Posted December 24, 2015 Hello all, just an update on the 32 Plymouth brake shoes. The lower front anchor had a largeBuildup of corrosion causing it to not pivot and locking the front shoe into an open positionThe brakes do have upper adjustments(See Pic) and there are NO Long and Short shoes, also NO "C" clips on lower anchorsAt this point the new shoes are installed and caliper used to adjust shoes. As soon as the Holidays are over a test drive will be needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) Those are pretty much the same as my 1931 DB brakes....no clips and with upper and lower eccentric adjusters. Edited January 1, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dix40 Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 discussion timing is perfect on this topic. I have had the cyl and master rebuilt and am lining the shoes now. My manual says on a reline the top should be .012" from the drum and the bottom .006" from the drum. It talks of a special tool (no picture) but why can't it be done thru the little sight window and a feeler gauge? I saw the window but didn't make the connection until reading here. I was planning on using a tapered bearing with a rod attached to mount a dial indicator. this would allow rotation of the dial to set the linings to specs. But this window should make it a lot easier.especially since the drum is in place. Note: the lower adjustment cams have a slot on the back side so they can be turned from behind the plate with the drum on. the manual says to cut a slot for this purpose if none is there. Question: the front shoe has a shoulder on one side (facing out) that fits into the stationary hole. BUT ALL THE SHOES HAVE THE SHOULDER ON THE SAME SIDE. The result is the rear shoe has the raised shoulder on the inside(facing in). I thought maybe the previous rebuild was careless about keeping the shoes in the correct position but they are all the same.the action wouldn't change, being on the same pivot but seems the shoes would be slightly out of line. My front shoes look original but the rears are replacements. Any ideas? P.S. greatly impressed with the Mopar design of 2 adjusters-top and bottom. If memory serves me, I remember even later brakes only having the lower adjuster. takes 2 to move the arced shoe outward uniformly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rande77 Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Post pics if possible. I used a caliper to adjust shoes but had to keep pulling the drum off to check the tolerances . Simple design but quite time consuming like stated by fellow posters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Glad to hear Rande . Mine on 31 pickup are same . I made the wood tool used 3/8 all thread rod so a little stiffer and the arm can just be squared . Dix40 pics will help . Slits as long as you got four in each drum, should work . I thought of doing it, but did wood in less time and you can visualize the shoe moving on eccentrics, as they move in and out depending on if you turn cw or ccw .It also lifts or lowers shoe . That movement is hard to visualize behind drum . The tool is a Miller 17xx something, doing a search on this site will show it . Read Keisers attachments above, all the details are there . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dix40 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 moving slowly but surely on the brakes. The little window I referenced is on the backing plate to check brake pad wear only. VM (a member) was very helpful in supplying me with a LH stud. thanks VM. He also made sense of the shoulder on the bottom hole of the shoes. There to provide more area for the cam to contact. Re: adjusting the new brakes. I have ordered a brake resetting tool from Amazon. found several ranging from $19-$55. Do a search in Amazon.com for Westward 1EKA5 Brake Resetting Gauge Total was $24 This will allow me to measure the drum and set the lining to specs- clearance of .006" at bottom and .012" at top, as the manual calls for. At least I hope it will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Sorry Dix40 , I think your missing something in the reading of Keiser31 instructions . You still have to center the brakes in the drum and the measurer tool is not needed unless you also have the Miller type tool . Please reread or search again how this and similar tools work . Ply33 has a site called Plymouth the First Decade this info and tons more is there free as a wealth of info . good luck keep us posted . TOM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now