Gas leaking from carburetor intake tube

[JayG]

Myers has replacement floats.  I had the same situation with mine.  Jay

[22touring]

Since the float is brass, normally people try to solder up any pinholes. But use as little solder as possible because you don't want to make the float too heavy.

 

Myers also has new float bowl inlet needles and seats. They made my car run quite a bit better.

 

On my carburetor, the metering rack and the air valve had separated where they were swaged together. I soldered them back together, too. I used silver solder for this rather than lead solder because silver solder is stronger.

[MikeC5]

If the float leaks (causing it to sink instead of float), it will hold the needle valve open resulting in a flooding condition.  My float had several stress cracks in it so it wasn't worth trying to save.  I think the brass wasn't properly annealed after forming.  I'm glad you got the timing figured out.

[GaryP65]

Now to plumb the fuel properly. Myers doesn't have fuel lines so I guess I'll go to my local hardware store. Anyone know the the size of the lines? Looks like I can use a refrigerator line so I can bend accordingly. I'm looking to clean out the tank so I can finalized this this one to move on to the next.

[JayG]

It's 1/4" tubing.  I opted to go with the Nickel Copper alloy for brake lines NiCopp.  it comes in 25' rolls and is much stronger and corrosion resistant than copper.

[GaryP65]

What about the fittings?

[JayG]

They're 1/4" NPT flare fittings.  Hard to find plated ones.  The brass ones are readily available.  I bought the brass ones and nickel plated them with the home plating techniques found online.

[MikeC5]

Yup, good old 1/4 NPT fittings which you can buy at Big Orange or Blue.  But if you want them too look like the original fittings you will need to source good used ones.  The new ones do the job fine though.