Reaper1

Just got my first TC

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My HEP only affected rpms past 3k making speeds past 60 impossible and any full throttle runs but it was fine and acted normal at rpms under that so anything is possible.

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Well...that does sound like my condition. I'm not throwing out the idea and I WILL try it. I promise. I messed my back up last weekend (not working on the car...go figure) and I didn't even go back in the garage last night due to the pain! I REALLY want this thing running 100% before I pull it.

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Well, I replaced the HEP and the plugs, but I haven't driven the car yet for various excuses. LOL I HAVE been working on the engine swap stuff, though. Right now I'm doing the engine bay harness. I am inspecting/cleaning the entire thing, replacing damaged wires as I go and will rewrap it with the non-adhesive electrical tape (I FINALLY found some locally at a hot rod shop!) and I got all new convoluted sheathing. I am also getting rid of the stupid fusible links! I'm replacing them with a PDC fuse box out of a later model LeBaron. I've done this to a couple of other harnesses in the past, but I unfortunately grabbed a REALLY late version and it is wired all differently. So, I'm bouncing between 3 factory service manuals finding the wiring so I get it right. Uggghh. I *had* a notebook with schematics in it that I drew up for this exact conversion, but I can't find the dumb thing.

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Reap,   I did get your PM pics.  Here's the issue (you don't have BTW)  Twice now I've seen 16V TC's with the WRONG pressure plate.  See how the correct one(that you have) has that little raised area where the TOB rides?  Without that (like a standard strait fingered  diaphragm) the 'wings' or ears on the 16V specific TOB will drag against the fingers.  I have even seen one TOB cut it's way thru the fingers and end up INSIDE the PP laying next to the flywheel!!  That was a mess.  Not too sure why yours is contacting the inside of the case tho, are there any signs of damage or modifications to the bellhouse mating area?

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None that I can tell. I'm 99.99% sure that the engine tranny have never been apart until now. I will definitely check the replacement clutch to make sure it has the raised area. I have looked at it twice and I think it does, but it's in the trunk of the other car right now and the trunk is acting as a shelf for the front fascia, etc. LOL Thank you for the information. BTW, I am in need of some new PP bolts because for some dumb reason the socket I was using decided to jump off and round a couple. Grrrrr.....

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Oh, I guess I should update on the running issue. So I finally got to drive it the other day and the problem persists. I yanked the plugs and I didn't like what I saw at all...looked like it was running lean. So, I checked the fuel pressure. Static is 55psi (normal), dynamic at idle is about 45psi (again, about normal), but when I clamped off the return line it only went to 60psi (NOT normal...should shoot to ~80-90psi)!! I'm betting the PO installed a TBI pump. Good thing the other car has a brand new tank in it with the right pump...so I guess I'll be doing that swap this weekend (if weather holds).

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Well, this weekend saw some more forward progress! Saturday I did wiring all day. I fired up the digital dash I have and saw that it works great and even the millage is SUPER close to what my TC actually has, so maybe this was meant to be!? LOL Anyway, once I saw that it worked I went to town integrating the plugs and such. I got 1 plug totally integrated and the other mostly done and the electronic climate control mostly done. By the time I am finished a person will be hard pressed to be able to tell the factory wasn't responsible for both sets of plugs being in the car (I am leaving the stock connectors in place in case I decide I want to go back to the stock gauges and such). I still have to get to the engine bay harness and finishing the fuse box install, but that might be later this week.

 

I also got the fuel tank out of the parts TC. I ran out of jack stands so I couldn't do the swap, but I will get it done. I put the Chrysler scan tool on it and the fuel adaptive is reading a constant +9%, so I'm 99% sure the pump is the culprit. I will check the injectors, too just to make sure.

 

I also stripped the trunk of the parts TC and found some more historical paperwork! The car was sold in Hazelhurst, Ga in 1991 at a used car lot for ~$24k on trade for a Mercuri Capri XR2! LOL I tried to get the rear bumper off, but in the process of double wrenching trying to get the bumper bracket bolts loose, I whacked my lip with the second wrench when it slipped off the "joint". I was even using gloves and had both hands on the set-up including the joint, so that was a bit unexpected! I've used that method who knows how many times...first time I've ever had that happen.

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PP bolts?  Throw those stock ones right in the trash and never think about  them again.  I'll bet you have lots of oil pan bolts laying around which fit perfectly and are a high quality faster.  Locktite for sure tho...

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Alrighty! Thanks for that! I learned the Loctite thing the hard way on my Shelby Z when I had a few back out and it caused damage to the clutch. Thankfully TU is AWESOME and got me squared away with little fuss, even though it was MY fault!

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On 4/15/2016 at 2:41 PM, Reaper1 said:

Oh, I guess I should update on the running issue. So I finally got to drive it the other day and the problem persists. I yanked the plugs and I didn't like what I saw at all...looked like it was running lean. So, I checked the fuel pressure. Static is 55psi (normal), dynamic at idle is about 45psi (again, about normal), but when I clamped off the return line it only went to 60psi (NOT normal...should shoot to ~80-90psi)!! I'm betting the PO installed a TBI pump. Good thing the other car has a brand new tank in it with the right pump...so I guess I'll be doing that swap this weekend (if weather holds).

Where did you tie in to the fuel system to read the pressure? is there an easy fitting like a schrader valve on the rail to hook a gauge up?

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Yup, exactly. The car I'm currently driving and troubleshooting is an 8V car. The fuel rail has a Schrader valve on the top of it between #2 and #3 injectors (just under the IAT sensor). I have a fuel pressure gauge that has an adapter that screws right onto it.

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1 minute ago, Reaper1 said:

Yup, exactly. The car I'm currently driving and troubleshooting is an 8V car. The fuel rail has a Schrader valve on the top of it between #2 and #3 injectors (just under the IAT sensor). I have a fuel pressure gauge that has an adapter that screws right onto it.

Awesome thank you. I'm picking a gauge kit up tonight. Something decided to take a crap and now I'm stalling out within 2 minutes of running. 

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So I was able to finally drop the tank out of the 8V car last night. Dumb thing fought me the entire way for whatever reason. I was forced to take the shocks loose and take the panhard bar off and slide the tank over the rear axle. I've never had to do that before, not even on the 16V car that I *just* dropped the tank out of this past weekend!

 

I was able to finally verify that the pump the previous person installed is NOT the right pump! Carter only rates it at 20GPH (less than 100lph) and it dead heads at ~60psi. So, thankfully the new tank that came out of the 16V car has the correct pump in it.

 

Also, I found out that the panhard bar on this car has a kink in it! Some people have disputed the strength of the stock bar...I can tell you for fact and experience that the stock part is a wet noodle! I intend to reinforce it once I straighten it and then I will replace the bushing ends with Heim joints which also will make it adjustable and allow better lateral control of the rear axle. I now have a good excuse for getting another bottle of argon!!

 

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Well, I got the new tank in and I even installed the Walboro 225 pump from my Daytona (it's now running REALLY rich...but I expected that). I am pretty sure I fixed the running issue, but the frigging tranny decided to give me some crap. The kick-down/throttle pressure valve rod that goes through the shift selector on the top of the transmission decided to get REALLY sticky...so it started only shifting at high rpm or WOT. SMH! So, I dropped the tranny pan last night and took the valve body out so I can work on it a bit easier. I also found evidence of water in the fluid (it was slightly milky) and other strange debris. The filter looked ok and the rest of the fluid looked/smelled ok, too...so I'm suspecting the dip stick o-ring isn't sealing. If I can't get it going after this...I will concentrate ALL of my energy on the engine swap...I'm running out of time!

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Alrighty...I got the shift selector shaft and the TV shaft separated last night. There's some corrosion, but not a lot. I did get it pretty freed up. but I know I can make it better, so I will! Hopefully tonight I can get it back together and see what happens!

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On 4/15/2016 at 2:41 PM, Reaper1 said:

Oh, I guess I should update on the running issue. So I finally got to drive it the other day and the problem persists. I yanked the plugs and I didn't like what I saw at all...looked like it was running lean. So, I checked the fuel pressure. Static is 55psi (normal), dynamic at idle is about 45psi (again, about normal), but when I clamped off the return line it only went to 60psi (NOT normal...should shoot to ~80-90psi)!! I'm betting the PO installed a TBI pump. Good thing the other car has a brand new tank in it with the right pump...so I guess I'll be doing that swap this weekend (if weather holds).

Guess who else is in the lean club haha

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Alrighty, so I FINALLY got the thing back together last night. I cleaned the valve body (stock, no mods...but it was tempting), replaced the filter and 6 quarts of fluid (it drained some out of the converter), adjusted the bands. Result: the best automatic shifting A413 I've ever felt! Clean, crisp shifts that aren't too harsh. It STILL has a WOT issue, but I'm not chasing it anymore. I know the engine is good and I know the tranny is good. It could be injectors or the TPS or...but I'm 99% it's not mechanical. Thus, no need to go forward. I'm now concentrating fully on the engine swap.

 

As for best replacement injectors...good question. I've only ever used stock or MOPAR performance injectors. I know there are many new designs out there and a lot of those incorporate better spray patterns and better atomization of the fuel, so it could be that aftermarket ones could work better. For a stock application, it's hard to say.

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PROGRESS!!! I *FINALLY* got the dash harness all repaired and I think I have created a "world's first and only". I fully integrated a 1987-1989 G/J-body digital instrument cluster AND the automatic climate controls. A person would be hard pressed to look at it and not think the factory did the mod, which is exactly what I was going for. I also had to replace the entire pink wire run for the interior lighting that goes to the right side of the car. Somehow it got so hot it melted the sheathing and I'm sure was only a few seconds away from turning the car into a "Ferrari" LOL! The donor harness is a ghost of its original self!

 

I will be starting on the engine bay harness this week.

 

I also cleaned the engine, but the stupid paint came off of it (I kinda thought that would happen), so I have to re-do that. I also have to get the engine up on the stand so I can pop the pan off and inspect it..

 

I can't remember if I posted about it, but I also was able to press out the old bushings for the control arms I'm going to use ('89/'90 stamped double pivot). The one side was "easy" using my big C-clamp. The other side I made a "tool" using all thread, 2 wrenches, a washer, and 2 nuts. I basically "pulled" the other pushing out using that method. Ironically the bushings looked to be in great shape, but, eh...I have better ones! I also got a new bottle of argon, so I can weld the bobble strut bracket onto the new K-frame.

 

LOTS of work to do still!

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I plan to. Last night I wanted to light it up outside of the car using only the dash harness. That was a no-go :( The cluster works fine...I tested it out before. I also know the button backlighting works fine and the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) buttons also light up. The aspirator motor for the ambient temperature sensor also works and I hear the vacuum solenoid controller click on as well. I could not get the ATC head unit to stay lit up while testing it separately. For some reason it briefly lights up the screen when I take power from it, but it wouldn't stay on. I'm suspecting that all the jumpering I tried to do to get the thing to come on just wasn't right. The engine bay harness is still all apart, so I can't connect it just yet. My plan is to finish up the engine bay harness, then plug it all in and see if I can get it to light off that way. The good thing is I left the ability to leave the original equipment in the car, so if for some reason the components I'm trying to integrate don't work, I can always revert.

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I started the integration of the PDC (power distribution center) in the engine bay harness last night. At first I thought I messed up, but after staring at it for a while I got sick of feeling like that and decided to follow my gut (which said I was right) and kept going. I even made another peg board for doing this as well. It's not as big or as nice as the one I made for the dash harness, but it's functional. I decided to implement a different method of connecting large wires this time. In the past I've done this vie open-air soldering using a butane torch. This time I'm using only the metal part of butt connectors, crimping it, soldering it, and using waterproof heat shrink. So far it makes a nice compact connection that I know will never go anywhere.

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Got quite a bit done last night. A few more hours of messing with the spaghetti and I should be able to plug stuff up and see if it works!

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On 5/6/2016 at 1:32 PM, Reaper1 said:

Got quite a bit done last night. A few more hours of messing with the spaghetti and I should be able to plug stuff up and see if it works!

Good luck!

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Well, here's the result! I have a couple of bugs to work out regarding the temp control, but those are only with that system, not what I did to integrate it. But, everything seems to work otherwise!

 

20160507_235939.jpg

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