Reaper1

Just got my first TC

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Well, I finally pulled the trigger. It's not a 16V car, but it's a nice, straight, rust free '89 8V. I drove it home on the highway and in traffic with no problems. It needs some TLC, but the overall condition is fair. It will make a nice driver. The interior (ginger) isn't too beat up. The leather needs a GOOD cleaning and conditioning. The driver's seat has one small hole, but other than that just typical dry cracking that softened right up with conditioner. Same for the center console.

The porthole windows are some of the best I have ever seen. The hard top headliner needs to be re-stuck and the leather on the dash needs to be put back in place, but I have seen WAY worse be brought back.

She ran smooth, like a couch on wheels!

Anyway, I am looking for a few parts. I need the center console switch cover and ash tray lid (the fake wood looking plastic part that goes over the seat switches, etc. Somebody just put screws right through the thing instead of fixing it and the lid is just broken to the point I'm not sure if I can fix it.

I am thinking I might also need the polished trim part on the deck lid that is just behind the CHMSL that goes from side to side of the car just under where the hard top seals. I haven't taken the hard top off yet, but something is telling me this part is broken because of the way it looks.

BTW, some may recognize my handle from a few years ago when I started building a 16V Masi engine when I was still living in Florida. That project is still goung, but the engine part is on hold as the rest of the car is being built to handle it! Lol. Rest assured, though that it WILL be completed!

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Hello Reaper. Welcome back or whatever... Frankly, in my opinion the 8V TC is the best to own, with a little upgrading.

I had a 16V which I rebuilt. It ran STRONG, but in my opinion it is not the car for most people. I see you are building a 16V engine for another car. I suspect you are somehow connected with Rick. That sounds like it will be a special car, but not a daily driver type and likely not a TC.

If you know of me, you'll know I am down to one old 89 8V engine TC. The best part being the swap to a 5 speed. The other is taking out the Teves ABS. Now with a bunch of miles on this car, it is still a great car both on the road and in city traffic. At 75 cruising on the freeways, it's like piloting a plane, just so smooth.

Good luck fixing up your new purchase.

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Congratulations on your first TC. I just purchased my first TC last weekend (October 24th)! I say that tongue in cheek, because I'm not sure if I'll get another one. I mean, this one is the ONLY one that I've ever seen in real life! No lie. These babies are rare... at least in my neck of the woods. Anyway, I hope you enjoy your TC as much as I enjoy mine!

Nice meeting you!

Mark

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Well, it's taken some time to get an update, but I finally have something noteworthy. I replaced the valve stem seals (I HATE that job in the car!! HATE IT!!) and it looks as though I was able to reduce the smoke to just a little tinge in the smell of the exhaust and a puff on initial throttle tip in. Because it had the wrong valve stem seals in it before I don't know if the shop replaced any of the original ones etc., so it's "good enough". The engine runs very smooth and quiet and since I re-timed the cam and ignition it no longer has the hesitation it had before.

 

So, with all that it just needs to have a power steering line replaced and mechanically I believe it's good to go. I got the tags and registration yesterday, so I'm going to get insurance today. I hope to be able to cruise by X-mas!! YAY!!!

 

Oh, and this is on the 8V engine. I will start the process of the 16V swap as soon as this car is officially on the road.

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I was FINALLY able to take my '89 8V TC on its maiden voyage! For the last few days I've been troubleshooting and electrical issue. I found it, I fixed it, and I prevented it from happening again. I'm blaming a past mechanic being careless with the harness and it rubbed on the power steering pulley. The low beam, high beam and a violet/white wire (I know it has something to do with the MAP) were all affected. It caused a no-start/no-run condition when the low beam headlights would be turned on.

 

Anyway...the important part...I drove it 10 miles....top down...freezing, but enjoying every second! The right front caliper is still sticking, so I suppose I need to get a rebuilt one, or rebuild this one. Other than that and I took the power steering belt off for now to prevent the high pressure leak, I have to fix the tag light, the front license plate holder, and the adjustment of the headlights. I also have to get the rear window for the soft top fixed. The bolts that hold the hinges to the 3rd bow somehow got stripped and replaced with wood screws and a bunch of nuts as spacers! Classy. Obviously that didn't hold and nether did the hack job of adhering the hinges to the glass. I'm still also fixing up the interior little by little. The leather needs a LOT of work. It takes hours just to get one part back up to snuff. It's coming along, though.

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So, I have been able to drive the car here and there and today I drove it to work. I haven't gotten the soft top fixed yet, so I had to put the hard top back on it. The good news is that it runs and drives pretty darn well!

 

I also drove the 16V car into the canopy and started the engine swap process. Unfortunately the more I take this car apart, the more I see how bad it really is and would simply basically require an entire donor car to bring back, so this chassis is going to be crushed/destroyed. I will have some parts for sale as I get it apart.

 

I now understand what Hemi was talking about regarding the wiring harness, the 16V cars have a completely unique engine bay harness. It uses different plugs, wire grouping, etc. Also, taking the radiator fan out SUCKS!! You have to take the radiator/intercooler out FIRST, then wiggle the fan out. I will be installing a V6 fan when I do the engine swap as it uses the flat fan and gives a LOT more room.

 

Does anyone have a place that they send A/C lines to be rebuilt? I plan to keep the A/C, but of course the lines are for R12 and while R134 does work, the lines are old and also more porous to the R134 molecules, so they WILL leak. I need to get these lines remade to hold R134.

 

Tonight, I am going to get the car in the air, get the fenders off and start taking the suspension apart. I hope by the weekend I can have the engine out of the car.

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I found a PERFECT black soft top recently in a J Yard and I'm gonna swap it onto my white car(has a brown top as factory issue). The brown top is leak free and in pretty good shape.  Come get it, you can have it.

 

Reaper, I thought you said you got that 16V motor from Cindy, Tom K. (XtremePU) says it was his?

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I have 2, plus the 16V car from Rick. So, the first one I got was from Tom K. The second one I got was from Cindy. Then I was able to buy the car from Rick with a running engine that I'm swapping into my 8V TC because the chassis is so much nicer (like brackets aren't rusted to dust! LOL)

 

I might just have to take a road trip to SoCal! I have a few friends I can visit, too!

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I didn't quite meet my goal of having the engine out this weekend, but that was because timing just didn't line up to borrow an engine lift. That will happen this afternoon. I did get the entire front of the car apart. What a pain! You have to take the front bumper off to take the fenders off, but you can't do that until you take the trim piece that goes under the headlights off that is screwed to the bottom of both fenders! LOL It didn't help that there were quite a few rusty screws I had to drill out. The rest came apart fairly easily. I was surprised to see the anti-corrosion that was sprayed on the chassis under the fenders (cosmoline sp?). I am also impressed by the amount of body shims there are from the factory...meaning they actually tried to get the body panels to line up! LOL Overall, taking this car apart has shown me how much nicer these cars are put together compared to any other K-based car I've ever messed with. I'm becoming a bigger and bigger fan as I'm working on it...even though there are some major pains to get over.

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Just try to remember that these are NOT a K-based car. These are based on the Daytona platform and if you need to know the difference then just read the auto magazine articles of the time (1984 models) commenting on how much the Daytona chassis was improved over the K cars. Some people have gotten into the habit of referring to any Chrysler Corp front wheel drive car as a K-car. Didn't help that the LeBaron was made as a K-car  as a 4door in '87 while the 2 door and convertible moved to the Daytona platform that year and then the 5door liftback LeBaron GTS was on the Daytona platform as well.  Now that I have confused even myself, try to remember that the Chrysler Laser was a rebadged Daytona  and was replaced with the '87 2dr LeBaron.

 

Kind of like the Barracuda was a version of the A-body Valiant/Dart line before being made as an E-body Plymouth version of the Challenger in 1970-74 with a very different suspension setup than the previous years.

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Oh, I do understand and know all of that. I refer to them as "K-based" because they are, at the core, based on the K platform (plus it makes it easier to describe the car to laymen). However it is very clear working on them that they are FAR removed from that original design. I've owned several Daytona's, a '84 Laser, '89 LeBaron...the list goes on. I've also stripped and cut up quite a few as well, so I have a pretty good feel for how they are made. I will say again that based on my experiences the TC is a MUCH nicer vehicle!

 

Last night I got the K-frame out. I had to break the driver's side captured nut because it sheared off and was locked on the bolt, even with copious amounts of PB Blaster. I found rust working its way up from the floor pan next to the frame rail up the fire wall to the brake booster area.

 

I was able to get the outside exhaust bolt off with little issue, but the inside one...ugghh. I can't get a wrench on the nut to hold it, so, I'm cutting that thing tonight!

 

Shift cables, fuel lines, and mounts...the engine/tranny can drop out!

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Oh, I do understand and know all of that. I refer to them as "K-based" because they are, at the core, based on the K platform (plus it makes it easier to describe the car to laymen). However it is very clear working on them that they are FAR removed from that original design. I've owned several Daytona's, a '84 Laser, '89 LeBaron...the list goes on. I've also stripped and cut up quite a few as well, so I have a pretty good feel for how they are made. I will say again that based on my experiences the TC is a MUCH nicer vehicle!

 

Last night I got the K-frame out. I had to break the driver's side captured nut because it sheared off and was locked on the bolt, even with copious amounts of PB Blaster. I found rust working its way up from the floor pan next to the frame rail up the fire wall to the brake booster area.

 

I was able to get the outside exhaust bolt off with little issue, but the inside one...ugghh. I can't get a wrench on the nut to hold it, so, I'm cutting that thing tonight!

 

Shift cables, fuel lines, and mounts...the engine/tranny can drop out!

I have had K cars and I currently have a G body 85 Laser and an 89 Q body TC. The only one that is vastly different from the bottom side is the Q body TC, which still uses K car front and rear suspension pieces.

Yet I have installed vast amounts of Q body parts on the G body car as well as on my former 81 Aries 2 door. The long and the short of it is this, " If you want to swap parts, have at it. Going into the 90s can get a little sticky but if you stick with swapping parts from any K, E, G or Q body from the 80s, you will find that it all mixes. The Uni-Body of the TC is much better reinforced structurally. That is also why it weighs considerably more than any of the other K derivative platforms even though it is shorter than any of them.

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I was FINALLY able to drop the engine out of the 16V car last night. I had to cut that exhaust bolt off (that took longer than expected), but after that, it was just making sure I covered all my bases. Figuring out where to pick it up from on the engine side was "interesting". I finally decided on removing the car side of the engine mount and using chains and bolts through the engine side of the mount where the 18mm bolt goes.

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Nothing really new to report. Just been doing lots of cleaning of stuff. I did pick up an '89 double pivot K-frame and stamped A-arms to put under it because both have the old sub-strut style and the 16V one was all rusty and while the bushings were probably replaced a long time ago they were all dry rotted and cracked. So, I just need to cut the bobble strut bracket off that one and weld it to the new one. I'm going to use polyurethane bushings from Johnny in it.

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Went to the junk yard yesterday and got a nice score. I found an '89 LeBaron Premium car that had the entire digital dash package. This also contains the digital automatic climate controls. Having heard that this system is basically a stand alone thing that can be easily adapted into other cars (the Vector super car from the '80's/'90's used it!), I figured "why not!".

 

So, in under 2 hours with only hand tools I took the entire dash, steering column, under dash harness and heater box out of that car! I only broke 1 thing, and that was the driver's side sill cover because the phillips screw heads were too rusty to get out.

 

As long as the electrics are basic to get it to work (I think it really just needs power and ground) I am going to put it in the TC! I don't know how many people have done this to their TC, but I figured that since it's a luxury car, and that is a pretty standard luxury car item...it is a natural fit. It's a shame the display is going to be green, but there's nothing that can be done about that.

 

I am also tossing around the idea of putting the digital dash in it. I've always been back and forth on them (I loved it in my '84 Laser XE), especially the '87-'89 G/J-body style because they only show 2 of the peripheral gauges at once instead of all 4. Plus, again, the display is green. Not really that big a deal, but hey. The other thing I don't like is that the tach is a little "laggy" and it only goes to 7000rpm (I know stock rev limiter, blah blah...this won't be THAT stock!), plus in direct sunlight the display tends to "wash out", as is typical with almost ALL digital dashes. 

 

Today I am aiming for '91+ front spindles mainly. These help raise the roll center of the front suspension which helps handling and overall ride. I might also see about some speakers as the original ones in this car are SHOT! LOL

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Well, I made more progress with the 16V chassis this weekend. I've got just over half of the interior out of it, so it's getting close to the time to try and decide what the fate of the chassis is going to be...chopped or crushed. It depends on how much I might get for the chassis versus what scrap steel is going for. Part of the rust issue was caused by the stainless kick strip as I'm sure it rubbed away some paint on its retaining rail which started the chain reaction of rust cancer that is consuming this car.

 

I am going to start the wiring process of putting the PDC in the main engine harness this week.

 

I ordered new bushings fro the new K-frame and the anti-roll bar as well.

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Well...I ordered an EVO 8 16g turbo with the 10.5cm^2 turbine housing last night. That *should* be able to meet my goal of 300-350whp fairly easily and still keep good response. This is the first time I've ever gone outside the stock realm for turbos, so this should prove to be interesting. I don't know of anyone else that has tried this, even on the 8V engines, so...I suppose we'll see!!

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Due to the running issue the 8V has been giving me (it like to fall on its face above 3500-4000rpm randomly like it hits a soft limiter, and it was liking it run a little warmer than I like to see on the highway) I decided to try taking the cat off. Now, keep in mind that car was burning oil from leaking valve stem seals when I got it, so I was suspecting it being plugged (it wasn't rattling, so I didn't think the bricks were bad). Well, after fighting me and every cutting tool I had available I got the thing off...and immediately was kinda mad at myself because it wasn't plugged (actually looked new!) Of course I had to start the car with no exhaust...sounded AWESOME (just like I knew it would)! I also found out the TC's have 2 resonators that are 2.75" OD. One is directly after the cat and goes all the way to the first 90* turn, the other is in between the 90* turns and is about 4" long. I need to measure, but the over the axle pipe looks like it's about 2.25"OD instead of the typical 1.875".

 

Well, I can hear the turbo easier now, and I noticed the engine seemed to keep a more constant temp when driving to work this morning. I haven't been able to do an acceleration test yet, but I have a feeling it didn't solve my issue. If my welder would have had gas, I probably would have put the thing back on. The car will be getting 3" exhaust in the near future anyway, so no biggie.

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That issue can often be a bad hall effect sensor. You can test it with an oscilloscope or just replace it (good idea with how frequently they die) it is a cheap part and 15 min installation, at the bottom of the distributor. 

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I've never had one affect only higher rpm operation. I've had one die on me during regular driving and I've had a few friends that has also happened to. Plus, a good part of the time the car will typically just die and not want to restart. This TC doesn't do that...just feels like it's missing pretty badly or like a soft rev limiter. I do have a few good HEP's I can swap.

 

My next move is that I'm going to swap my good cap/rotor/wires onto it and replace the plugs (all looked good in my previous inspections, but that doesn't mean anything). I just replaced all of the soft fuel lines and the fuel filter, but the PO replaced at least the pump hanger and I'm wondering if it has the wrong pump on it. The thing is, the problem doesn't happen all the time. Most of the time, yes, but not all, so I'm hesitant to think it's the pump.

 

I know that all this diagnosing seems strange considering I'm swapping the driveline, but I want to know that this one is OK before pulling it out in case I sell it or put it in another car, etc.

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8 hours ago, Reaper1 said:

I've never had one affect only higher rpm operation. I've had one die on me during regular driving and I've had a few friends that has also happened to. Plus, a good part of the time the car will typically just die and not want to restart. This TC doesn't do that...just feels like it's missing pretty badly or like a soft rev limiter. I do have a few good HEP's I can swap.

 

My next move is that I'm going to swap my good cap/rotor/wires onto it and replace the plugs (all looked good in my previous inspections, but that doesn't mean anything). I just replaced all of the soft fuel lines and the fuel filter, but the PO replaced at least the pump hanger and I'm wondering if it has the wrong pump on it. The thing is, the problem doesn't happen all the time. Most of the time, yes, but not all, so I'm hesitant to think it's the pump.

 

I know that all this diagnosing seems strange considering I'm swapping the driveline, but I want to know that this one is OK before pulling it out in case I sell it or put it in another car, etc.

EmmettTC has a good idea though. I have experienced the Hall Plate/HEP failure to begin with what would feel like very slight, intermittent engine miss. This develops into more frequent miss or just plain failure if you continue driving with the bad plate. I am A FIRM BELIEVER in purchasing a Chrysler ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT plate, however expensive.

The HEP that began failing on a trip to TC America convention in Santa Fe, NM, that was around 1996 or 97, that dude is still in the car. I do not see the OE plates fail but RARELY.

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I will certainly give it a go this afternoon if I get time. I'm not trying to say it's not possible at all, as those dumb things do some strange stuff sometimes. I also believe the OEM part is the best option. I have used aftermarket ones, but they are hit/miss (and can make you engine run like a hit/miss). I do have a good aftermarket one that has been flawless for over 10 years.

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