Budtee Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I am researching accumulators and found this company. http://www.gm-supercharger.com/brake-hydac-accumulator-ball.html If this is the correct one I will buy it. The price is right at $118.25 with free shipping if you are not in a hurry. When you put it in your cart a 5% discount is applied to the $125 price. Does this one get the "Digger seal of approval"? I am a new TC owner and don't know what I would do without this Forum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 From the look of this Accumulator, I would say YES.I have seen these on remanufactured Chrysler Tevis ABS assemblies in the past. Please let us all know, when you receive and install it, how it fits. REMEMBER! Prior to removing your old Accumulator, NO MATTER WHAT, pump the brake pedal FIRMLY 30 times before loosening accumulator.Wrap paper towel around base of OLD accumulator to absorb any brake fluid that may come out. Be prepared for a possible substantial amount of fluid, turn accumulator SLOWLY counterclockwise off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 I didn't find a Hydac part number when I took your posted link to the web page, so I had nothing to cross reference with. When I went to their home page I found that they handle parts for the GM and Ford supercharged cars in the right age group and I was also able to enlarge the photo, change the contrast and compare it tit for tat to photo posted by a known Hydac accumulator supplier that lists all the cars we are compatible with. From the look of this accumulator you get a yes from me too. Nice price find, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 I sent an e-mail to the vendor asking him to confirm that the accumulator was the correct one for my 89 TC. Received a reply today that it is the correct one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wheelsport Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 What is the full address of the listed site. The address doesn't appear to be complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 If I click on it, the site comes right up. gm38supercharger@yahoo.com is the address I found on the site. Let me know if you still can't reach them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 I am having some problems with the order for the accumulator from gm38supercharger@yahoo.com. I selected fedex ground for the shipping method and the total showed 0 for shipping. Now the vendor wants $17.00 for shipping and said in a phone conversation that it is back ordered. I will probably pay the $17 if it is available for shipment right away. I am contemplating a Paypal dispute. Will let you know how it turns out. Even with the additional shipping charges it is still the cheapest one available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wheelsport Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 I also tried to order the accumulator from this guy. My computer wouldn't allow me to order it on line so after numerous attempts to contact this guy he finally called me back yesterday. He said he has themin stock but the price is now $170. He sent me an invoice this morning giving a new price of $178 plus shipping of $20. I got the idea this guy is kind of shady so I gave up on him. I found the accumulator in stock at a place called Spinning Wheels for $179 including shipping. It appears he is going to charge Budtee the listed price of $125 + $17 and he now said the part is on back order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Whoever gets their Hydac accumulator first please take pictures from all angles, write down all numbers and drop me a private message. Buying an accumulator shouldn't be this difficult, especially at these prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 I received my accumulator yesterday. Pictures, measurements and all data printed on accumulator are furnished today and I will confirm fit and function after installation. It is about 5" from bottom of threads to the top. It is 3-11/16" in dia. Printing on top S2 4657 Printing on side circumferentially: MAWP 3000 PSI AT 200 DEG F MDMT -40 DEG F MADE IN GERMANY 03/15HYDAC 03055720/664/069 VOLUME 20 CU. IN. PO 1000 PSI SN 0489086 I ordered it from the vendor shown above and paid the $118.50 and fedex ground was to be free. Then vendor came back and asked for $17.00 for shipping and refused to ship until he received it. I was going to start the Paypal dispute process but decided to pay the $17.00 and see if he shipped it. ($135.50 was still the cheapest price I could find.) IT WAS SHIPPED USPS BY SPINNINGWHEELS..??? I just noticed another number near the bottom. C24599 Installation instructions suggest "You could use some JB Weld and put a nut on top, right in the middle. Let it dry over night and install in the morning. Much easier. Just make sure you tighten it complete" It would seem that the hex above the threads would be sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 OK - I measured the existing accumulator and it is 3-5/16" in dia. or 3/8" smaller than the Hydac. It is almost touching the flange that protrudes from the firewall. It seems that the flange could be bent down to provide clearance. It appears to be about an inch taller than the old one also which might cause a problem. Has anyone made this substitution? Should I be concerned about the size of the threaded connection? I can't see the threads until I remove it. Thought I would ask these questions before I attempt the installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 14mm 1.5 pitch and with the nipple cap screwed on I can't say for certain, but it looks like you have the right length and taper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Buick Reatta owners are facing the same situation as TC owners when it comes to discontinued Teves ABS brake parts. The Hydac accumulators from SpinningWheels will function perfectly on the Teves MK II system. They have been tested by Reatta owners for a few months without problems. Like you guys, we do have a clearance problem with the strut tower brace due to the slightly larger size of the Hydac. Luckily we are able to compensate by adding flat washers under the brace to give more clearance. GM-Superchargers seems to be a good deal at their listed price of $125. However, when I added one to the shopping car the price went to $155. SpinningWheels has been supplying the accumulators for a number of years so I would probably buy from them. We are currently searching for a suitable replacement for the pressure switch that has been discontinued for our Reattas . Have you guys ran into the same problem finding pressure switches? Have you found a replacement that will work? NOTE: I have no affiliation with SpinningWheels or GM-Superchargers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Buick Reatta owners are facing the same situation as TC owners when it comes to discontinued Teves ABS brake parts. The Hydac accumulators from SpinningWheels will function perfectly on the Teves MK II system. They have been tested by Reatta owners for a few months without problems. Like you guys, we do have a clearance problem with the strut tower brace due to the slightly larger size of the Hydac. Luckily we are able to compensate by adding flat washers under the brace to give more clearance. GM-Superchargers seems to be a good deal at their listed price of $125. However, when I added one to the shopping car the price went to $155. SpinningWheels has been supplying the accumulators for a number of years so I would probably buy from them. We are currently searching for a suitable replacement for the pressure switch that has been discontinued for our Reattas . Have you guys ran into the same problem finding pressure switches? Have you found a replacement that will work? NOTE: I have no affiliation with SpinningWheels or GM-Superchargers.Darn if another well priced part number doesn't bite the dust. Found both flat blade and 5 pin normally double open one closed and double closed one open contacts made by ATE and available at a less than a gouging price http://forums.aaca.org/topic/259954-brake-pressure-switch/#entry1390596 and now you say the part is discontinued by GM and we have to live with the Jag price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Darn if another well priced part number doesn't bite the dust. Found both flat blade and 5 pin normally double open one closed and double closed one open contacts made by ATE and available at a less than a gouging price http://forums.aaca.org/topic/259954-brake-pressure-switch/#entry1390596 and now you say the part is discontinued by GM and we have to live with the Jag price. We are looking at the Delco 25530882 as a replacement for our Reattas. We will need to change the connector for it to work. A couple of Reatta owners will soon have wiring adapters in hand and will be testing to see if it will function properly. I believe it will work. Just hope it doesn't get discontinued too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 I just started to install the Hydac accumulator and tried to hold the spacer nut and turn the accumulator ball off using a allen wrench and 1/2" breaker bar. It started to strip out the allen socket so I stopped. I then "just for the heck of it" turned on the spacer nut and it started to loosen (rather easily) at the bottom. Would that be OK to take it apart there? Then I should be able to get the ball off on the work bench in a vise with a pipe wrench or use the "acetylene wrench" if that fails. Would appreciate your opinion or any suggestions you might have. (AS USUAL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 This is odd, I know I responded to this yesterday and seeing it posted I checked sent mail and didn't find my response. Haven't been able to bring up the TC home page for a couple of day's now and I don't know if it's my internet provider, if the TC page is down, or if it's a Windows 10 issue. Do know that what I wrote yesterday isn't where I put it, so I will post and not do private message. All I can say is you could create a job you wish you hadn't and don't take this spacer off while the brake assembly is mounted on the firewall. Use an open end wrench and Block the spacer and wrench so it doesn't move. After that you can grab the outside of the stripped hex nipple with a pipe wrench, this thing has tiny self locking grabber teeth at the bottom, one good jerk to get those free and the thing spins off by hand. I live in rust country and use the "blue tip wrench" on a regular biases, but there are some things I don't touch with a torch and just because this isn't a gas tank doesn't mean that it can't go BOOM. Beat it, don't heat it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 OK FINISHED - Backed the spacer nut off and found that it didn't readily come off. Reinstalled it and resumed trying to remove the accumulator. Finally put a pipe wrench on the outside of the almost stripped allen socket and also used the breaker bar and allen wrench at the same time and, like you said, it came loose suddenly and removed easily. To install the Hydac I had to bend the horizontal flange on the firewall up a little and spring the spacer nut forward to get the threads started. I was able to bend the flange back down a little after installation. It is a little taller than the original but doesn't seem to hit the hood. Installation instructions did not say to bleed the brakes and they seem to work fine. After a test drive I pumped the brakes with the key on at least 25 times before the pump came on. I will scan the installation instructions and post them. Thanks to all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 (edited) Attached is an instruction sheet I received with Hydac accumulator. Note: There will not be any room for the JB Welded nut on top. Top clearance is sufficient and it is not necessary because of hex just above the threads which is adequate for tightening it. I pumped the brake to relieve the pressure in the system the day before and there was no leakage of brake fluid at all. Edited August 14, 2015 by Budtee (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 If the accumulator was prefilled with brake fluid I would say OK follow the instructions, but you should always bleed the brakes anytime you open a line and this is more than a line. If the accumulator came dry, bleed the brakes. Our accumulator sits higher than the fluid reservoir and whatever air is in there will always be at the top. That's all fine and good, but if air under pressure was good for the bladder this thing wouldn't be charged with nitrogen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 If the accumulator was prefilled with brake fluid I would say OK follow the instructions, but you should always bleed the brakes anytime you open a line and this is more than a line. If the accumulator came dry, bleed the brakes. Our accumulator sits higher than the fluid reservoir and whatever air is in there will always be at the top. That's all fine and good, but if air under pressure was good for the bladder this thing wouldn't be charged with nitrogen.When installing the accumulator, there is no need whatsoever to bleed the brakes at the calipers. If you think that there is air on top of the brake fluid in the new accumulator, how in the world do you think bleeding will get it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted August 15, 2015 Author Share Posted August 15, 2015 I am a little confused. There is a small tube that protrudes from the spacer nut up into the accumulator about 1" or so. Maybe this brings fluid up into the accumulator? There was no fluid that leaked when I removed the old accumulator. (I had pumped the brake 30 or more times the day before the installation.) After installation of the new one the reservoir was down and I added a few ounces. (The reservoir was a little above the full mark before the installation.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 When installing the accumulator, there is no need whatsoever to bleed the brakes at the calipers. If you think that there is air on top of the brake fluid in the new accumulator, how in the world do you think bleeding will get it out?Pretty much the same way that the nitrogen gets out after it has oozed its way through the bladder. Agitation of the trapped gas occurs when fluid is forced into the accumulator reservoir, the gas (for now air, later nitrogen) trapped in the pocket below the bladder is disturbed by the fluid and for a short period of time the one big bubble becomes a million tiny bubbles temporally encapsulated by the viscosity of the hydraulic medium. For that short period of time the trapped bubbles can be removed by movement of fluid through the system. No real need to bleed a system of a daily driver as it will flush this pocket with normal use. If it's going to sit for long periods of time after replacing the accumulator trapped air will shorten the life of the accumulator and bleeding the brakes is preventive maintenance for a problem that may not be a consideration of most owners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 (edited) Sorry, I posted in the wrong forum. Edited August 16, 2015 by Ronnie (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budtee Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 When I start the car after setting overnight, the pump runs for 20 seconds or so and then stops. Brakes seem fine. With the engine off and the key on I pump the pedal over 25 or 30 times before the pump and light comes on. The only thing I am concerned about, is the fluid level in the reservoir. After setting overnight it is over the full mark and after starting the car when the pump stops running, the reservoir is slightly under the full mark. (A difference of a little under 1/2") Is this normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Having fluid bleed back is normal for our system, it's our full mark that's a bit confusing. Think opposite and it will make a little more sense. The radiator reserve level rises when the motor runs warming the coolant and eventually it cools and goes back to the full when cold. The brake fluid level goes down when the key is on and goes up after it's set for a bit. Some Tevis systems let you fill the reservoir when the system is pressurized, like my Jaguar. Didn't read the TC book when I first got it, filled my brakes the same as I had done for the Jag and had a puddle of brake fluid on the floor in the morning. Your new accumulator holds a little more fluid than the original and your full mark is now a bit off. Pump your brakes down to no pressure, give it them the full 30 pushes. When the system is completely discharged fill the brake reservoir to just below the point where it would spill out if you were parked on a hill, turn the key on and when the pump stops, make yourself a new full mark. Believe it or not, it took me about a week to figure out I was over filling the brake reservoir. Bought my TC out of NYC the week before the hurricane hit, it got on the truck OK, but it took a couple weeks to find out if the car survived the storm and another couple weeks for delivery. By the time it got here the battery was dead so it had the OH CRAP for brakes when it came off the trailer and slapped the belly pretty good when the front tire jumped the ramp with only inches to go before it was clear. It was almost 10PM when the car arrived and even though it sounded bad, I didn't see any sign of serious damage until the next morning when I found a big puddle of tranny fluid on the garage floor. Replaced the pan, got the floor cleaned up, then found a spot in a new place and started looking for a leak in the steering rack that didn't exist. If you don't pump the brakes down, it can take a couple of days for the them to completely depressurize and it was the brake fluid from the overfilled reservoir seeping out around the cap, dripping on the rack, that was dripping on the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 If the accumulator was prefilled with brake fluid I would say OK follow the instructions, but you should always bleed the brakes anytime you open a line and this is more than a line. If the accumulator came dry, bleed the brakes. Our accumulator sits higher than the fluid reservoir and whatever air is in there will always be at the top. That's all fine and good, but if air under pressure was good for the bladder this thing wouldn't be charged with nitrogen.I guess we haven't killed this one off yet.The accumulators DO NOT come filled with brake fluid, first of all.It is not necessary to bleed the brakes because even IF a tiny amount of air should be present as the accumulation fills with brake fluid when the pump is energized, there is no way in earth that bleeding the calipers would ever get rid of that air inside the accumulator.So, let's end this debate by saying, an acceptable accumulator has been located and we now know that you merely have to screw it on and go your merry way. Just be sure the brake fluid is at the proper level in the reservoir after pumping DOWN the hydraulic pressure in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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