JanZverina Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Well the job is finally done, and as expected the first thing I did was nearly launch my head through the windshield when I stepped on the brakes the first few times. First, thanks to all on this forum who gave me great advice and guidance, especially to Kaber for his detailed drawings, which were of immense help to my trusted mechanic and me. I used a master cyl and booster for a '67 Riv drum/drum setup, a distribution block (Part PR106A) from Inline Tube in MI (thanks, Darren and Kaber) and the magical rubber booster seal from Booster Dewey (thanks Dewey and again, Kaber). We had to adjust the front bakes a couple times to get a less sensitive pedal feel, but now I know why many of you say the first-gen Rivs were boosted so that the fairer sex could stop this car quickly and effortlessly! Her are some pix of the setup, where you can see the distribution block down below. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 First time I drove mine after the conversion, I got back to the shop and my buddy asked me what I thought. I told him I wish I would have had seat belts. I about slid under the dash. Nice work. Looks awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kaber Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Well the job is finally done, and as expected the first thing I did was nearly launch my head through the windshield when I stepped on the brakes the first few times. First, thanks to all on this forum who gave me great advice and guidance, especially to Kaber for his detailed drawings, which were of immense help to my trusted mechanic and me. I used a master cyl and booster for a '67 Riv drum/drum setup, a distribution block (Part PR106A) from Inline Tube in MI (thanks, Darren and Kaber) and the magical rubber booster seal from Booster Dewey (thanks Dewey and again, Kaber). We had to adjust the front bakes a couple times to get a less sensitive pedal feel, but now I know why many of you say the first-gen Rivs were boosted so that the fairer sex could stop this car quickly and effortlessly! Her are some pix of the setup, where you can see the distribution block down below.[ATTACH=CONFIG]273565[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]273566[/ATTACH]WOW! Awesome work. It looks great! I have an update to my conversion that might be relevant here....I noticed after the conversion that the brake lamps were kind of intermittent. I checked the wiring and it was good. I replaced the Hydraulic switch with a new one and the "Intermittent" problem went away. After a short time we started getting people stopping us and telling us we had no brake lights. I checked and they came on but only in a high pedal pressure situation. The car had to be running, for the added boost, for them to work at all. I bled the rear brakes thinking I had an air bubble and that didn't help. I did some research and found a Brake lamp switch that actuates at 20-40 PSI as opposed to the stock 60-120 PSI. I ordered one from Jegs. It seems I was not the first to have this issue. Anyway I got it put in and brake lights work MUCH better and the car no longer needs the boost to actuate the lamps!I'm glad I could help. Happy stopping!Kaber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dwhiteside64 Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Looks and sounds like a stunning success Jan. Thanks for sharing the info with us so others can do the conversion when the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanZverina Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 I did some research and found a Brake lamp switch that actuates at 20-40 PSI as opposed to the stock 60-120 PSI. Thanks for sharing this tip, Kaber. This morning I checked my brake lights, even w/o the engine running, and they were operational. But I'll keep an eye on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 (edited) Looks very neat and 'factory' original - nice update Jan !!Are the brake lights not operated from an adjustable electrical switch that is actuated by movement of the brake pedal arm,or, is that feature only used on newer model vehicles ?? Edited October 4, 2014 by 68RIVGS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanZverina Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 Hi 68RIVGS,I'll check with the mechanic who helped me do this conversion, with Kaber's notes as guidance. That part was his part of the job, and it's a good question! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 The '63 is the only Riviera which uses a hydraulic switch to operate the brake lights. In '64 a mechanical switch was moved under the dash to work off the pedal. For that reason, this swap is easier on a '64 or '65. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 (edited) Thanks Ed - you just never stop learning in the wonderful world of Riviera !! Edited October 5, 2014 by 68RIVGS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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