RockitRiviera Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hello All, The last thing I need to disconnect before removing the body from the frame is the steering column/steering coupling. There is a compression fitting bolted firmly with a bolt that I haven't seen before. How do you suggest I remove it (what wrench/socket? Any other tricks/tips?The attached pic of the bolt is in the center of the pic. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lapham3 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 A 12 point socket -or a 12 point open end will manage it, too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Thanks, I'll give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slacker1965 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 you may have to spread the clamp from the splines a bit once you remove the pinch bolt. you DO need to take the bolt completely out 1st! in case you didn't know, there is a groove in the splines for the bolt to seat in. if the rag joint comes apart, it was rotten & needs to be repaired. NAPA has a repair kit.......hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 So, I got the "top" bolt completely out. That was on there like a s.o.b. By far the hardest bolt so far and I've removed all the body mounts! So, I started jacking up the body inch by inch...and was hoping for a miracle that the steering colume would just come out. No luck.So, do I remove the "bottom" bolt from the coupling? I'm open for advice...and eager to get the body off the frame to start the dirty work.Thanks so much.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 How do I add my ROA# to the signature? ROA#14516 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 How do I add my ROA# to the signature? ROA#14516On the dark blue bar at the top of the page, click on Forum Actions, then on Edit Profile. That will take you to another page where you can edit signature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan at larescorp Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Remove the bolt from the steering gear side. Then you can grab a screwdriver and try to spread the camp a bit. After that, if you have any room, try tapping it up with a rubber mallet. You will want to be careful not to bang up the input shaft. Whatever you do DO NOT USE HEAT. It will wreck the seals in your gear. We have a coupler in stock with the gear side casting if your old one breaks. The rebuild kit wont have that casting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 OK Dan, I'll give it a shot this weekend! Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 I wouldn't try sliding the coupling apart as I lifted the body. A better approach would be to drop the steering column from the dash and remove it first. Them lift the body. That will also help when you put the body back on the frame.I have had my body off twice and doing it with no column installed is easy.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 Excellent Idea, Bernie!Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Bernie, I looked at the bolts holding the steering column...and thought they were a pain to get to, so I used Dan's prying technique and it came apart nicely. Now I'm three 2x4's thick under each mounting location. I really need to raise the body up to get the frame out from underneath. Thanks again for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 I used a comealong on a cross tie above the firewall and lifted with a chain in two of the front body mounts, position 1. A vertical 4X4 supported the cross tie. I supported the rocker panels at the rear of the pinch weld with 24" jack stands. With the rear wheels removed and the third member supported with a 3 Ton floor jack I was able to snake the frame out by myself. The front wheels were left on to help it roll.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Here is the steering column out for the next guy; just two bolts and a plug:The 500W light was for heat. We did that job in February and even though we started the firnace, it took a long time to warm the inside of the car.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 I have to laugh, but of course my car is parked in nose first...so I have to either bring the car outside and pull the frame forward or raise up the body very high to pull the frame out backward. I like your idea Bernie. Taking off the rear wheels and pulling it out forward. Genius...I love this site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 OK, so if anyone is still listening...any tips on removing the emergency brake cable and the speedometer cable? As I'm lifting the body off the frame...I'm finding more things I've over looked. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) Pretty straight forward stuff. Just follow the cables and look for attaching points. The first time I did mine I missed the mounts at the rear kickup. I guess it was a "forty something" thing. wait until you get to the "sixty something" things!I learned a lot from bad examples when I was a kid, now that you mention cables. In 1964 or '65 my Grandfather and I were removing the engine and transmission unit from a real clean white 1957 Mercury Commuter 2 door wagon. It had a push button shift in the center of the steering wheel. The cable was attached and he, as always, was in a hurry. He pulled the cable to the edge of the frame rail and beat it in two with a hammer. We put a '57 Ford 312 engine and transmission in that one so he brought in his son-in-law to swap steering columns. What a mess! Then we had to change the length of the driveshaft. A torch, inner pipe and four carriage bolts did it. He showed me that you had to blow the bolt holes in 90 degrees from each other to maintain balance.Tip #!: Don't lay the cable against the frame and beat it in two.You know. I am still learning from other people..... in the same manner.Bernie I'm the nerd with glasses, always paying attention, George knew: http://www.neatorama.com/2007/10/01/quote-george-bernard-shaw-on-cynicism/#!bAGNO7 Edited August 10, 2014 by 60FlatTop (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockitRiviera Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Thanks Bernie, I unscrewed the transmission/speedo cable. But the E-brake is still frustrating me. It seems most of the bracket is riveted to the firewall. I can seem to crawl under the dash far enough to figure it out. And once I get the cable disconnected...how do I remove it from the body through the firewall so I can finish lifting the body off? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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