Durkis Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 I have searched this forum to find out where the brake light switch is located on my Windsor deluxe 1951 but I cant find anything about it.Is it possible to adjust the switch so it turns on the brake lights a bit earlier?When I brake softly and nice it is not activated but when I push the pedal harder it is working as it is supposed to.So if anyone knows on this exellent forum I would be glad.Lars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 The brake light switch is connected to the brake hydraulic system. It is not on the master cylinder, but will be on the brake line somewhere on the frame or under the hood.It is a common type of pressure activated switch. It will not go on until there is pressure in the system. If it is not working correctly, it is not hard to replace.Go to the local auto parts store and ask for a brake light switch for a 1976 Volkswagen Beetle. They are alike and interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 Thank you very much, Rusty.I would really like to sit down and have a chat with you about old cars. I'm so impressed by your knowledge. You seem to know everything there is to know about old cars! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Thank you very much, Rusty.I would really like to sit down and have a chat with you about old cars. I'm so impressed by your knowledge. You seem to know everything there is to know about old cars!Thank you for the compliment, it is good to know I have not wasted the last 50 years messing with old cars. It is fun to help someone who is keeping one of the old beauties on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 It is typical of the automotive hydraulic brake light switches that it take a little pressure on the pedal to have the lights on. At least that is what I've found on my old car.I've heard, but have not confirmed, that Harley-Davidson motorcycles use a similar hydraulic brake switch that turns on at a lower pressure. And I've had it suggested to me that it could be used on our old cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 It is typical of the automotive hydraulic brake light switches that it take a little pressure on the pedal to have the lights on. At least that is what I've found on my old car.I've heard, but have not confirmed, that Harley-Davidson motorcycles use a similar hydraulic brake switch that turns on at a lower pressure. And I've had it suggested to me that it could be used on our old cars.As the questioner lives in Stockholm I suspect he will have an easier time finding a VW switch at the local parts store, than a Harley Davidson or 51 Chrysler switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 As the questioner lives in Stockholm I suspect he will have an easier time finding a VW switch at the local parts store, than a Harley Davidson or 51 Chrysler switch.Maybe. Maybe not. http://www.harley-davidson.se Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 I will check out both VW and H-D but my guess is that if VW has a switch it is probably much cheaper because every thing with Harley Davidson logo in Sweden are very expensive, for example you have to pay from like 12000$ and up for a Sportser from the 1990s.Thanks alot guys for the tips!(Check out my thread in the video forum, it is called Swedish lady run. There you can see some of the cars here in Sweden).Thanks again guys... I am sure of that I will have more question about my car and I am equal sure of that some one on this forum knows the answers.Durkis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Certain parts are standardized and used on all kinds of vehicles. Like light bulbs, for example. You might buy a tail light bulb at a parts store for $1, at a VW dealer for $3 or at a Rolls Royce dealer for $30 but they are all the same light bulb, made by the same light bulb factory.The brake light switch is like that. It is a standardized part, used by dozens of makes of cars over a period of forty years or more. It happens that VWs are more common in Stockholm than 51 Chryslers, and VW used this part twenty years after everyone else. Therefore, it is easier to ask for a VW part and find it in the parts dealer's computer.In fact if I wanted that switch anywhere in North America I would still ask for a VW switch because it is more likely to be in the parts store computer.If you want to be pernickety you could order a 51 Chrysler switch from an American old car parts specialist. It would cost more, take weeks to get there, and you would have to pay postage and customs duties and it would be the same switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) NAPA still supplies hydraulic brake light switches for vintage cars, most an exact match for the OEM equipment. Most of them are about $15 or less. Edited June 9, 2014 by Owen_Dyneto (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Thats what I mean Rusty, our car has been in Sweden since 1979 (apperently) and owners before me have made a lot of crazy things to the car...the carb misses some parts it is changed to 12 volts, some of the chrome trimings are missing so if I would try to fix everything back to stock, it would probably cost me more than what I paid for the car. BUT Ilove the car and the looks of it cause most people that drives "old" cars here in Sweden drives cars from the sixties, square boxes with V8 engines an four wheels. I like the shape of early 1950s cars, they shall be like women with curves :-). But any way our Chrysler drives good and looks good so I fix the things that matters.. brakes and stuff like that.I really like this forum, there is so many people with so much knowledge here. In Sweden there is not that many late 1940/early1950s Chryslers here and even less people to ask.So once again thanks a lot for all tips.Durkis Edited June 9, 2014 by Durkis (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 How does your transmission work? I don't see how it can shift properly on 12 volts, without the proper carburetor. If it is working I would like to know how they made it work, if not I might be able to help get it working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share Posted June 9, 2014 How does your transmission work? I don't see how it can shift properly on 12 volts, without the proper carburetor. If it is working I would like to know how they made it work, if not I might be able to help get it working.How would you like to bring the summer in Sweden? We have a small cottage you can stay in.Well seriously the transmission works pretty good, it will always upshift on both Lo range and Drive range but sometimes I need to press down the clutch at a junction so it downshifts. For some reason it will almost always down shift when I slow down and drive thru a right turn but sometimes it wont downshift untill I stand still and sometimes I need to use the clutch...but that is because (I think) the idle rpm is still a little to high. I am convinced that my carb need some new jets and a proper rebuild. When its like 400-450rpm the engine stalls 7 times of 10 when the interruptor kicks in.I looked around and it looks like its just drives with 12volts, everything works and when I cleaned the governor it shifted smoother so I guess that still works. The carb misses some kind of connection on top/front end and the kickdown switch dont work, I did test it with an instrument and did get a very poor reading I used an ohm meter cause I guessed it just ground the governor/solenoid. The choke is missing the cap, its just a small pin with a hole in iton that side and the lever/lock for the choke underneth is not connected to anything. But I have the resistor? thats fitted to the aircleaner stabilizer with the wires to the gearbox and coil and so on.So I dont think that there is anything special, I have not seen anything that can decrease the voltage.Tomorrow I will try to take some photos and post them here.Durkis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 It sounds as though you have almost everything to make the trans work. If it was mine I would take a center tap off the 12v battery for all the 6v parts including transmission. Then get a manual and restore everything to stock, replacing wiring as necessary.I have worked on these transmissions before and have never had to take one apart. Almost always, the trouble is very simple and cheap to fix, such as frayed wiring, not enough oil in transmission etc. The transmission and Fluid Drive are very strong and trouble free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) I took some photos today and as you can see the owners before me made some mess. And I dont have a clue how it is suppose to look like.The picture of the governor is when I cleaned it thats why it is unhooked, the blue valve handle is so I can turn on/off the waterflow to the heater wich by the way is a new one from a new car and it works fine. And as you can see on the carb some pieces are missing.The picture where my wife drives the car is there just for you guys to see how it looks after 35 years in Sweden. Edited June 10, 2014 by Durkis (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) Someone has done various things to your car! I don't like the heater fan. The original got its air from in front of the radiator, you should see a round hole to the right of the rad where the hose went in. Also the heater was in a box, that sat on a shelf beside the engine. Do you even have a heater?The carburetor appears to be a Carter B&B model off a car or truck with manual trans. It should have 2 electric switches built into it, one actuated when the throttle is closed, the other when it is fully open. There should be 2 electric connectors to plug in the wires.I see there are no wires to the carburetor, can you see any connectors on it? The part number should be stamped on the web, at the top front of the carb. If you give us the number we may be able to figure out what carb you have.There is a wiring diagram in the Chrysler section, if you do a search for Fluid Drive Wiring Diagram you may find it. Edited June 10, 2014 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 The only wire is the one from the kickdown switch, which dont work.I have been looking at some diagrams but my carb looks different and dont have the connectors in front/top that I have seen on some pictures.Well this is my carb and the car run and drives pretty good so I am...well not overjoyed but glad enough :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Commodore Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 The part number for your carburetor is E9A1 which is the carburetor for a 1951 Chrysler C-51. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 12, 2014 Author Share Posted June 12, 2014 So is that the wrong carb for Windsor Deluxe?I googled Chrysler C 51 and it says C 51 windsor and it looks like the same car.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Commodore Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 (edited) No, it is the right carburetor for a Windsor Deluxe. A Chrysler C-51 is a Windsor or Windsor Deluxe. The main difference between a Windsor and a Windsor Deluxe is that a Windsor Deluxe had the Fluid-Matic transmission standard and on the Windsor it was option. Also, the Windsor Deluxe came in more body styles. Here is link to a 1951 Chrysler brochure. http://www.imperialclub.org/Yr/1951/Brochure/index.htm Edited June 12, 2014 by Commodore (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cars of chaos Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 So is that the wrong carb for Windsor Deluxe?I googled Chrysler C 51 and it says C 51 windsor and it looks like the same car.?Hi All,I may be able to help out a bit with this thread. I just picked up a 51 Windsor Deluxe 2 door hardtop with the completely original setup (carb, heater, wiring, etc....though it is still a 6V system). My engine bay, while a bit dirty, is as it was from the factory without any modifications. If you need to see what what is supposed to go where, what hooks to what, let me know I will snap pictures for you and upload them to the thread. -CarsofChaos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Hi CarsofChaos.If you could take a pic on your carb with the wiring and on the resistor on the air filter stabilizer that would be helpful.I might come back to you with more questions, if that is OKThanks a lotDurkis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cars of chaos Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 Sure I'll be out at my shop later today I'll get some pics and upload them for you. If you need any other pics just let me know. By the way the resistor sure is an odd thing, I had a guy who worked for Chrysler for many years look at it and said he'd never seen anything like it before! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Well I dont know if it is a resistor but I do think it is an original thing because the wiring comes from the coil and gearbox.It could maybe be something electric because its converted to 12volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cars of chaos Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Sorry for the lateness of these pictures couldn't get out to my shop yesterday. Anyway this is the stock setup with the 6v system and stock 1 barrel carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cars of chaos Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Hi Durkis,Not sure how helpful this will be but I did find a wiring diagram for the 51 Chrysler. Alas, mine still turns over but won't start (though I had it running for about 4 seconds yesterday so I guess that's progress). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durkis Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 HI Cars of Chaos!Thanks for the pictures and even more thanks for the diagram, that`s gonna be a real help for me to try to understand what previous owners has done to the car.I will try to get all electric in order for the trans to work properly, it shifts gear pretty smooth now but it won`t shift down at a stop every time so there is some issues left.Good luck with your car, I hope you get it to run because it ia a really cool car and I guess it is not that common in Your country either, here in Sweden it is mabey a handfull of them on the roads.Pop a question to Rusty Otool about your engine because he seems to know everything about these cars and these old engines and he has helped me with many questions I had.Thanks again and good luck to get the car running.Durkis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cars of chaos Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 Hey there Durkis,Thought you might find that useful! I really had to do some digging to find that wiring diagram though. I think I have narrowed my problem down to not getting any fuel to the carb. Next I'll see if it'll run off an external fuel tank and work from there (fingers crossed).Let me know how yours turns out! Yes Rusty has helped me out he appears to be a great source of info on these old Chryslers!Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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