Durkis

Hi. I changed oil in my Fluid Matic gearbox M6 1951 and now my governor is leaking oil so the silvertip/contact in the cover gets all oiled up so it wont shift unless I open it and clean it, than it works for a time and then I need to clean it...you get the picture. I asked the local Tractor shop for a good oil that is lubricating AND hydraulic and they said that this oil was the best. I cant get hold of 10 w engine oil here in Sweden...belive me I tried. My question is if there is a way to change the seal/oring, I really dont know how it looks if a take it apart. If anyone here has a governor to sell and will ship it to Sweden I would be happy.

Hi Rusty! I had a tachometer before and I used that one to put the idle at 450 rpm but I broke the tach so now I'm not sure, but it sounds about the same. The carb is rebuilt, and the compression reads like 109-104-114-115-109-106 so that I know is good. The oil pressure is between 45-50 psi while driving andjust around 40 on idle and like 35 psi when I'm standing still in gear, so that feels solid. The ignition...I have not checked that, but it starts really easy and it drives really nice with good power, I can cruise at 50-55mph and open the throttle and feel that it accelerate more but I will check that. I have a slight valve ticking that I will try to adjust this winter. Maybe it is just a bit low on the idle, I mean if the tach shows 5% low I have a idle speed at 420-425 rpm and my ear is probably not that good so I can hear the difference. Well I will increase the idle just a bit and see if theres any difference. Thanks for the advice and quick answers. Lars

Hi everybody! Here is my new issue with my Windsor Deluxe. I have cleaned the governor and everything else and checked all the wiring and such because it didnt want to shift from 3 to 4, now that I know about that thats just a minor problem to fix for me. After the cleaning it shifts just fine again BUT when it shifts down in 9 times of 10 the engine stalls, especially when I come to a dead stop. If I go in fourth gear and slows down untill like 3-5 mph (not a complete stop) the engine wont stall but if I go to a dead stop it will stall. The idle is about right and it works really good with my new head gasket and carb, it is like it always gotta be some small issue. Anyway I drove it today and it rides like a charm, exept that it stalls on me. Gratefull for some ideas from you all good people. Lars

I gotta look into that Jack M. I dont think there is anyone here in Sweden that can adjust that kind of speedometer. Thanks for the answers. Lars

Well, in my shop maual it says 7,60*15 and when I convert that to metric it says 225*75*15 an that is what I have. The speedo scale is not mph it is km/h so I dont know if there is anything changed when they did the switch. I can live with this "problem" I am just curious if it is a quick fix. Thanks for the fast reply Lars

Hi all. Is there any way to calibrate the speedometer on a Windsor deluxe 1951? I have noticed that there is a screw on the cluster backside, the speedo shows like 5-6 mph to little or about ten kilometers to little. It's not a big problem... Thanks Lars

Just an update. I got the gasket last monday, it took like two hours to put everything together. I torqued the nuts three times and than I drove it for a bit so the engine was up to temerature and then I torqued it again. Yesterday (saturday) my wife drove like 100 miles when she entered a "rally", when she came back home I checked the nuts with the torque wrench and everything looked great. Hopefully I dont need to change that gasket again :-). Now the car runs really smooth and it feels strong and it starts like never before, it will be interesting to see if there is any different in the fuel consumption. Thanks for your advice Lars

Yepp I cleaned the block and it looks fine, now i`m just waiting for the gasket to be delivered so I can reassembly the head and then change the oil because I want to be sure that there is no water in the oil. So soon I will be on the road again :-)

Thank you folks for the quick answers. So when I reesembly the head I put in the bolts as it shows in the manual, tight them a bit at first and then torque them to like 45 lbs in the right order and then torque them to 65 lbs. Then after about 100 miles (160 kilometers) I retorque them to 65 lbs again like Rusty said. After that I hope I never need to take of the head again. Lars

Hi everybody. I went for a drive 2 weeks ago with my 1951 Windsor, when I came back home it was just running on four cylinders and it did smoke a bit. I had a blown head gasket :-( When I pulled the head of there was a piece missing of the gasket between 5th and 6th cylinder, I did not get hold of a new gasket here in sweden so I had to order it from US (E-bay). The head had been a bit warped so I milled it down so it is flat again, I had to take 7/10 of a millimeter (0,0275 inch), I messured the valve lift and it seems to be enough clearence but I will check that before I tighten the bolts. Now here is my question: I have searched the internet and my shop manual and I can find two different torque numbers, the shop manual says 65-70 foot pounds and I read on the web that it should be 75-80 foot pounds. Do you guys think I should go with the shop manual or is there something "new thoughts" about the torque on the cylinder head bolts? Thanks in advance Lars Durkfelt A proud owner of an old Chrysler.

I have the 2 position key switch and a start button just above the the key so I just turn the key and push the button. But my car has been here in Sweden for a long time and it is converted to 12 volts so I dont really know if that is the original starter procedure. Listen to what Rusty O'toole and C49er has to say about this because they really know what they are talking about, they helped me alot. Good luck with your car. Lars

The choke looks like this, so the heat tube will mount in the centerhole and down to the exhaust manifold? I guess it is not that big of a deal to get it to work :-) Thanks for the answers, I will update on the progress.

Hey! I got my "new" carb today and immediately I have a question! The climate choke, it is broken on my old carb. There is a hose or tube connection, but where on the engine shall I connect it? If someone has a picture on it it would be great, I have googled for a couple of hours and I can´t find a good picture on the hoseconnection. Lars

We just use the Chrysler in the summertime and not like a daily driver and the annual roadtax is like 8 bucks and the insurence 100 bucks a year, and that is an insurance that covers everything. Our daily driver is a Saab 9-3 twin turbo diesel with a diesel consumption like 44 miles per gallon. So the money we save by driving the Saab we can fill the Chrysler tank with, but still I would like to get the gas consumption down to a little more normal so we can use it even more because it is such a joy to drive. And my wife really would love have the car like a daily driver. By the way, do anyone of you nice guys and girls know if you could get fenderskirts for the Windsor? A new friend of mine that owns a 2 door Windsor 1951 here in Sweden asked me that. Lars

Kerosene? Is that what ju use in oil lamps? That stuff is even more expensive here than gas. When I bought my Chrysler the guy had one gearbox that seems to be complete (not the governor) and one gearbox that was pulled appart plus one fluid drive turbin and I got that in the buy. A couple of days ago I meet a guy on facebook who owns a 51Windsor two door with a broken gearbox, so I sold the stuff I had to him for 500$ so he can get his car back on the roads. So with the money from that I will by a rebuild carb and hopefully I will cut down the gas consumption. Otherwise I have to check the engine. Oh right I just bought myself a shop manual :-) Lars