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1936 series 40 steering column question and ignition switch question


Guest born2lose

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Guest born2lose

Does anyone has a diagram of what the inner steering shaft and upper bearing is supposed to be laid out. Also how do you take apart the ignition switch, such as removing the cylinder and switch knob

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born2lose,

I photographed the picture below from an old Motor's Manual. The manual indicates that '35 - '51 Buicks use Saginaw Steering Gears. It lists several types of Saginaw steering gears but shows only 1 diagram, so I assume that the internal setup would be similar for them all. I couldn't find any info on the ignition switch. I'm not very good at posting pictures and I'm not sure if you can somehow expand the one here so you can read it. Hope this helps.

Les

post-91550-143142459161_thumb.jpg

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Guest born2lose
born2lose,

I photographed the picture below from an old Motor's Manual. The manual indicates that '35 - '51 Buicks use Saginaw Steering Gears. It lists several types of Saginaw steering gears but shows only 1 diagram, so I assume that the internal setup would be similar for them all. I couldn't find any info on the ignition switch. I'm not very good at posting pictures and I'm not sure if you can somehow expand the one here so you can read it. Hope this helps.

Les

[ATTACH=CONFIG]242006[/ATTACH]

I appreciate the help but I was actually looking for the upper bearing diagram. That's my fault for not being specific enough. I appreciate the help though

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You need this bearing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1934-1935-1936-1937-1938-1939-1940-PONTIAC-BUICK-OLDS-NOS-STEERING-SHAFT-BEARING-/351044253486?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51bbde372e&vxp=mtr

On my 1936 and 1934 there is a light spring fits over the steering shaft splined area and secures in a notch just below the bearing ( this gives a little pressure against the felt oil seal on the bearing - see photo ).

The bearing pushes onto the steering shaft ( just a push fit ) then a slightly heavier spring pushes onto the shaft. When the steering wheel is fitted this pushes down on the spring which in turn pushes on the inner bearing and gives the bearing a pre-load.

So the sequence is spring, bearing, spring and then steering wheel.

You could probably get away without the first spring but you need the second the give the pre-load on the bearing.

Hope this helps.

Edited by 50jetback (see edit history)
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Guest KeithElwell

I may have a spare top spring, let me check. As a minimum I could provide a sketch of the spring.

I think I can also give you info on the lock cylinder, etc.

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To remove lock cylinder(you do have the key?) turn key from 12 `clock position to 6 o`clock with small hole at approx. 2 o`clock, use a paper-clip or small drill bit in the small hole to push in the lock spring and turn the key counterclockwise to the 9 o`clock position and key/cylinder will slide out.. I`ve not removed the lever before.. Also there is a screw on the under side of the column mount with a spring and ball bearing, detent for the lever, be careful don`t lose the ball if you remove this screw.. Good luck Tom

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Guest born2lose

no I do not have the key. how do I get it out without a key? Im not worried about damaging the cylinder because I have a n.o.s. one that's going in

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no I do not have the key. how do I get it out without a key? Im not worried about damaging the cylinder because I have a n.o.s. one that's going in

BOO! With out the key a lot of internal damage could occur trying to get the old cylinder out.. My `36 didn`t have keys when I bought it, I took the # off the door and trunk lock handles(same#) and had a key made, surprise!!! it also fit the ignition.. A good "OLD" lock-smith could pick it and remove it.. Good luck Tom

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest KeithElwell

born2lose,

Do you still need info on the top spring?

If so, here is info on mine, and I am pretty confident it is an original spring:

Spring diameter = 1.00"

Spring height (no load) = .90"

Spring wire diameter = .072"

Spring load when compressed down from .90" to .31" = ~20 lbs.

Spring is wound with 3-3/4 coils

I can sketch if for you if you like.

Keith

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Guest KeithElwell

The spring I described is the top spring that goes directly underneath the bakelite horn button and on top of the metal cup with the slots on the rim for the horn button tabs to lock into. This metal cup is held down with a hex jam nut to the threaded upper end of the steering shaft. I think there is another heavier spring under the metal cup but I would need to disassemble to recall. I can take mine back apart.

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so this spring goes between the steering wheel and bearing?

The bearing pushes onto the steering shaft ( just a push fit ) then a slightly heavier spring pushes onto the shaft. When the steering wheel is fitted this pushes down on the spring which in turn pushes on the inner bearing and gives the bearing a pre-load.

So the sequence is spring, bearing, spring and then steering wheel.

Edited by 50jetback (see edit history)
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