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1940 Century Waterpump


Rod Frazier

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Rod

No suggestion for you re: water pump, but just curious where your trip will take you. I admire the idea. I want to take a short 400 mile run with my '41 but it's hard to get excited about being in "modern traffic" :eek:

Good luck. Hope you will post some pictures. Like to see your '40

Wayne

1941 Super 51

post-78086-143142425074_thumb.jpg

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Guest Grant Magrath

We've found on this forum that a lot of overheating issues are partially blocked radiators. If you don't think your water pump will handle the trip, you could get a new one from Bobs if they have them, or Kanter, Cars Inc, etc. Then, just carry a spare belt.

Cheers

Grant

PS Welcome to the forum!

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Wayne.....As it turns out, we cancelled the trip because it conflicted with an Antique Motorcycle Club of America Tour we wanted to take in Kerrville TX. But our original plans were a southern route to South and North Carolina, returning a bit to the north through GA and TN. This would be a "roots" trip for me, since my family settled in N. Carolina in the late 1700's and later migrated through TN and GA to Arkansas. Because of the war, my folks ended up in California, where I was born. By the way, I grew up in Firebaugh, graduated from Fresno State, and lived over 30 years in Fresno and environs. Was just out there about a month ago visiting friends. Why don't you think about the Western National tour in Logan, UT, in July....should be a good one!

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Grant, thanks for the advice. Actually, the car had a new custom extra-capacity aluminum radiator installed just before I bought it about a year ago. It runs cool on the highway, unless there's lots of heat and steep grades, but gets scary hot in parades or idling, and there's always a bit of drama getting it started when it's good and hot. Foot to the floor and crank always gets it done, but I sure wish it'd fire a little quicker. I had the block flushed, but it didn't make a difference. I just wondered if some waterpumps were more efficient than others, thinking every little bit might help. As soon as I figure out how, I'll post some pics. Thanks, again.

Edited by Rod Frazier (see edit history)
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Rod,

Have you checked to see if the bypass valve in the thermostat housing has been removed.

From some reason there were people that removed them thinking that it would help with the water circulation but in fact caused the opposite.

I would have thought that with the new, extra capacity radiator you mentioned would be good, even in slow traffic.

Danny

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I could imagin that the area arround the cylinder walls are full of sediments (lime rock ), it don't will loosen with only flushing,for that you need a especial chalk cleaner or what we use is a vinegar concentrate water mix and let it work over night.

m2c

(Grant, is your avatar your interior after or before your restoration ..:rolleyes: )

Edited by jenz38 (see edit history)
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Hi,

When you get your water pump back from the rebuilder or get an exchange pump, it might have a zerk fitting over the bushing. If so, do NOT grease it. GM water pumps of this era used packings that are attacked by grease. My experience is that your pump will fail quickly if you grease this fitting, and this pump is so much work to get out and back in that you likely don't want to do it again any time soon.

--Tom

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