Guest 1987 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Ahhhah! There used to be some incredible small mouth fishing about 3/4 mile off the shore where you are, in about 20 feet of water. I've heard in the last 15 years they are out in deeper water, and less grouped together. Well now that I know that, I will have to let you know if I ever road trip this thing to that town and you can see it for your self. Your info doesnt say what kind of cars you have but I am sure they are something incredible. I can imagine paralell parking my baby right in front of Captain Jacks and having a nice burger on the roof looking down at her Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlisle1926 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I have an old instrument cluster out of a 47-53 Chevrolet truck. It uses the same basic system for the instrument lights. Here is a picture of one of the light sockets. The sockets just push in the hole and they will pop right out with a bit of pulling. To remove the little light bulb, push the bulb in and twist it counter clockwise to release it from the socket. To install a bulb do the opposite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdW13 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 None of my bulbs work. Hubby says maybe someone jumped it with 12v and blew em all....so I have been shopping for bulbs. I found a kit of all of them. Are you staying 6v? If/when you switch to 12 v you have to change bulbs. I am keeping mine 6v. https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/21456/Chevrolet_Light_Bulb_Kit_For_6_Volt_Car_Interior_Parking.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Looking forward to seeing you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1987 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Carlisle - Thanks for those pics. That.... sheds some light on it! pun intended. I will take a look. Angie - this one has def. been jumped 12v, but to my knowledge, all lights were off. I have read that there is a spring of sorts that is used as an adjustable resister that is adjusted by twisting the headlight on/off knob. I will start with that and the bulbs!Rusty - Looking forward to seeing you as well! praying she is roadworthy by spring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 OK ya the dash lights are adjusted by turning the headlight knob. When you turn it all the way to the right the dome light comes on, turn part way the dash lights get brighter. If it is turned all the way off of course they will not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick60 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Rusty is correct. Your radio most likely needs a vibrator. It will probably also need an OZ 4 tube. The vibrator is a 6 volt, negative ground, 4 prong unit. Both are available on ebay. Shop for a good price. The radio consists of two components. The vibrator and OZ 4 are located in the unit behind the speaker assembly. Look under the dash. The OZ 4 is on the passenger side end. The vibrator is next to the OZ 4. They plug into the unit. Pull them straight out to remove. Be sure to disconnect your battery before doing any under dash electrical work. I also saw your post on another forum regarding your door not opening from the outside. The most likely culprit is a small spring that is part of the door latch. When it breaks the latch remains in the locked position regardless of the position of the door lock button. You have to remove the door latch to replace the spring. The spring I'm talking about is the small one in the top row of the picture from an ebay auction. Again, shop around. I found a pair of just the small springs on ebay for $9.00 Good luck with your car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1950-Pontiac-Oldsmobile-Cadillac-Buick-Door-Lock-Latch-Springs-Set-49-50-/390759338897?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afb125391&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1987 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Rick thanks! As for the door, I am going to have to get in there and start messing around. The rod/switch/button or whatever you call it.. the thing that you pull up and down.... doesnt seem to want to move anyway. The outside button to open the door worked until i decided to see if it would lock... as for the radio, i stuck my head under there and saw a glass tube that was blackened. ill start there! thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1987 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 The door handle button works again, but I need to really go through the locks and get them in proper working order. That just involved gently pushing levers until I found the one that controls the disconnect of the button to the mechanism Someone mentioned that the headlight on-off pill out thing can be twisted to control dimming like in new cars. I did mess this with, and the speedometer flickered on for a second! What's the best way to restore it?As for the radio... I am probably going to rebuilt it and create an AM transmitter to plug an iPod into and broadcast am signals to the radio... AM here doesn't have anything I like. Would be neat if there were vintage stations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Probably the rheostat needs to be cleaned. A shot of contact cleaner spray, or electronic cleaner should help. Some old switches have the rheostat exposed at the back of the switch. With others you may need to take the switch off to get access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1987 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Yea this appears to be all sealed (judging be the replacements availible online). I'd like to save the $25 and fix my old one, but if that's not possible cause it's all sealed, I guess I'll just order the new one. I must say, I was quite pleased to see that speedometer light up for a breif moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 If you can get at it, there are holes you can squirt some cleaner spray into. They are not hermetically sealed. You may have to take the switch out of the dash for access.The handle or knob comes off if you press a button on the switch (under the dash) and the bezel unscrews off the front, then the switch comes out. Disconnect the battery first in case the wires hit some metal and ground out.A shot of contact cleaner and turn the knob a few times and it should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1987 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hey thanks for this. I appreciate how detailed your responses are! Saves me a lot of time fumbling around learning from my mistakes. Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1987 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Rusty: the button was just like you described. The bezel is decorative. It's not a nut, and while it had a slot that would appear to be for Unscrewing it, it doesn't turn of pry off. Since you sound like you've done this a bunch of times, perhaps you can save me from ruining it and explain how to get the bezel off I appreciate your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 The end of the switch is threaded like a bolt. It sticks thru a hole in the dash. A bezel or small nut screws onto it. There may be a decorative bezel with a small button like nut in the middle. The nut should have a slot. You need to make a kind of screwdriver with a notch in the middle. Whatever, that button unscrews and the switch comes out the back of the dash board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1987 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Thanks. I will give it a go. I tried a large flathead in the slot but was afraid to overdue it, being unsure if thats how it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick60 Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Be sure to disconnect the battery before working under the dashboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1987 Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 This all worked out fine, but unfortunately, even after a lot of electrical component cleaner, the speedo doesn't light up unless the know is fiddled with. The ease of that has increased, though. Also, there is a very, very faint sound when the radio is on. Wouldn't call it a buzz really, or a hum, just a really faint sound i need to be in a silent garage to hear with the car off obviously . Maybe it isn't the vibrator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Old radios usually need all new capacitors. The old ones are made of tin foil and wax paper and only last 10 - 20 years. The radio itself is very similar to a house radio. Any old time radio repair man who knows tube radios can fix it. The only unusual part is the vibrator. They can be replaced with a solid state one or, there are NOS ones on the market.Ask around your area for a radio repair man or hobbyist who fixes tube radios. Or, there are guys who advertise on the internet. You will have to take it out of the car yourself and put it back in when it is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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