No start, no crank

[Guest Rodger2]

I bought a 1989 TC with the 2.2L Chysler with Turbo. I was liking it a lot until it quit starting. I have strong lights and battery connections are good. Jumping didn't help. When I turn the key the radio and dash lights go off, and it doesn't crank. I don't have a blue book or any other reference yet. Any ideas or any other online sources for troubleshooting?

[Digger914]

I bought a 1989 TC with the 2.2L Chysler with Turbo. I was liking it a lot until it quit starting. I have strong lights and battery connections are good. Jumping didn't help. When I turn the key the radio and dash lights go off, and it doesn't crank. I don't have a blue book or any other reference yet. Any ideas or any other online sources for troubleshooting?

Nothing special about the starting of this vehicle and on line help is everywhere for this problem, peruse those at your convenience if this doesn't work for you.

Stick or Auto? best guess is stuck starter or solenoid, give it a gentle tap with a wrench or hammer. Auto could also be bad neutral safety switch, stick could have switch on clutch peddle?, don't have book on the 89 but other sticks of that year had these. Also check for loose cable connect to starter and solenoid connections.

[Bill Reichert]

You say the lights dim which means something is shorting when you turn the key. Do you get the "relay click" when you turn the key? If you do, the solenoid or the starter is shorted. There should be a heat shield on top of the solenoid which is on top of the starter. If it is not there the solenoid will melt and cause a short.

[Guest Rodger2]

I don't hear the click of a relay. I can feel heat shield material over the starter, is it best to access the starter/solenoid and connections from above and to the left? Removing some of the air intake, etc to get at it. I haven't worked on a "modern" front wheel drive car.

[Garnet & Gold]

Bill and Larry,

Being a newbee also, would the fault codes be of any benefit for this problem. Even thought it doesn't turn over, Roger should be able to get fault codes.

Bob

[Digger914]

Bill and Larry,

Being a newbee also, would the fault codes be of any benefit for this problem. Even thought it doesn't turn over, Roger should be able to get fault codes.

Bob

Odds are against OBD 1 Fault Codes pinpointing this problem. Though we had a new owner that couldn't crank because of an old anti theft system, this is usually a problem to basic to be addressed by fault codes. Shift it through the gears try the key, give the starter motor a whack try the key, wiggle battery cables and starter connections try the key, make darn sure the thing is out of gear jump the solenoid connects starter spins check switches, (neutral safety & ignition) doesn't crank replace. You don't really have a problem until it cranks when you jumper it and the switches are good.

[Bill Reichert]

Where is Hemi when you need him? Just for the heck of it, charge your battery. I'm thinking I had a brain (censored). The lights and accessories may disconnect by design when you hit the starter. If you don't hear a click, It could well be the relay on the left side. Some one here is going to have to tell you which one. It will be the one with a wire going to the starter. WHERE is Hemi?

Starters are an under the car, get all greasy up to the elbow job.

[Hemi Dude]

I bought a 1989 TC with the 2.2L Chrysler with Turbo. I was liking it a lot until it quit starting. I have strong lights and battery connections are good. Jumping didn't help. When I turn the key the radio and dash lights go off, and it doesn't crank. I don't have a blue book or any other reference yet. Any ideas or any other online sources for troubleshooting?

Rodger2, you gave us good feedback with your initial statements. You have verified that the battery and ignition switch appear to be GOOD. The radio and other accessories are supposed to turn off while the ignition switch is in the "CRANK / START" position.

Since you say that you hear no click sound 'whatsoever', that means that there is no action at the starter relay.

The first thing is to check the neutral safety starter switch which is screwed into the forward, lower portion of your automatic transmission case. Moving the shift lever WHILE holding the ignition switch in the CRANK / START position will often get you some action. Move the lever quickly between R and D. If this gets you nothing, it could still be the switch.

The center terminal of the 3 terminals in the connector at the neutral starter switch is the ground circuit for the starter relay. Complete the circuit by connecting a jumper wire from the center terminal to a good ground. NOW! be sure the shifter is in P or N as the starter could work in any shift position. Try the key, try cranking the engine. If it works, the problem is the neutral start switch. If it does not, go to the starter relay. AT THIS TIME, BE SURE THE IGNITION SWITCH IS OFF.

The starter relay is mounted on the drivers side strut tower. It is the relay (of the 2 mounted together) that is closer toward the engine. There are 4 wires in the connector. The yellow 14 gauge wire comes from the ignition switch and supplies power to energize the relay. The 18 gauge brown with yellow tracer wire which goes on to the neutral safety switch, provides the ground, at the switch, to close that circuit.

AT THIS POINT, LET'S GET SOMETHING CLEAR!

Some people speak of a short circuit or just "SHORT". They are most often meaning 'An OPEN circuit' meaning NO CONNECTION at all.

A real "SHORT" would cause blown fuses, burnt fuse link wires or worst of all, a harness fire. (small or great)

There are 2 other wires connected at the relay. One, the 12 gauge RED wire is ALWAYS HOT, coming directly from Battery+.

The other, 14 gauge BROWN, is the one that goes to the starter solenoid mounted on the starter motor.

'IF' you connect a jumper wire from the battery+ to this 14 gauge BROWN wire, the starter solenoid should engage and the starter motor should begin cranking the engine.

Let us know what your findings are.

Another question was asked along the way, "Where is Hemi?" It can be answered this way.

I have been busy working. Since I get so much "HEAT'" here from some people, I have taken a little vacation from this site.

I have taken on a different profession also. I now work with and on Jet engines at a local airport. I'll check in from time to time, when I have time.

[Guest Rodger2]

Now those are some steps that I wish I could run out and try on the car. I'll be home and try those tests on Monday. Then I will report back.