Mr. Anderson Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 OK, so I have been trying to figure out what is up with my transmission for quite some time now, and it has just been getting progressively worse. Recently, I discovered an unplugged vacuum line that runs parallel to the vacuum modulator line. I hooked it up, and all was well for about a day or two. Then the same problems returned (neutral feel at stops). Last week, the trans. has started to shudder when reaching 3rd and 4th. Honestly, it feels like the engine is missing. No codes, but from looking at the ECM diagnostics, it appears that the TCC is not engaging all the time. Just today, the trans. made a whirring sound when I was in reverse. I put some of the Lucas transmission stuff in it, and it acted a little smoother, but still would slip at stops and shudder at 3rd and 4th. I am at a complete loss on what I should check next. All of the mechanics that I know say that a transmission rebuild/replacement is in my future. This is uncharted territory for me. Does anyone know of anything that can help at this point, or should I start saving up some money for the inevitable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 does the vacuum line appear old/original (maybe cracked)? it might be as simple as a new hose, or much worse. seems i'd start there since it was ok for awhile... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 Everything appears original under the hood. I know of the two lines that run next to the transmission up to the manifold, are there any more vacuum lines that I could check?This pic of the two lines I mentioned are from my 90 lesabre, where the modulator and lines are easier to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 The second hose you mentioned is for the charcoal canister for fuel vapors. It isn't unusual for that line to become disconnected due to the design. That said, if vacuum is low to the trans. modulator (like a leaky or disconnected line) the trans. should shift more firmly, not less so. There is an additional vacuum line that runs from the octopus on the engine intake toward the firewall. It doesn't sound like a vacuum problem, although it never hurts to check for leaks. You could try a fluid and filter change, plus a Seafoam treatment for the trans. to see if it helps, but it does sound like the trans. may be on the way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Nothing that $2k won't fix. If you take it to a trans shop they will tell you it needs to be rebuilt. Unitl they get it on the bench and break it down, they can't tell you exactly what is wrong. I would opt for rebuild rather than replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 2seater: I just did a filter and fluid change with seafoam on this car within the last month. Before I did that, the problems were only intermittent, so I figured that they could be solved with new fluid and filter. There was nothing in the pan and the fluid was bright red with no odor.Vincent Vega: I agree with you on the rebuild over the replace. So, judging from what everybody is saying, my transmission is basically fried? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Vega Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I went through a similar issue with a 1998 Olds 88 at 65k. Drain, flush & Seafoam. Worked fine for a while and acted up again. Siphon off a gallon, replace. Fine for a awhile. Took it in for an inspection. The drove it and said it wasn't a total loss, but needed to be gone through. $2k later I'm 10,000 miles down the road and there is nothing wrong. They replaced some parts (Solenoids and such)and put in an overhaul kit. It's an ugly reality when you have to write that transmission repair check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 It's an ugly reality when you have to write that transmission repair check.I understand. But, until I decide to take it to the shop, I'm going to check everything that could possibly be wrong with the vacuum system and lines, etc.Speaking of vacuum, how many pounds of vacuum is there supposed to be in each gear selection? I tested the line at the modulator and at the manifold, and every gear came back with 15 or less pounds of vacuum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 Update: I did some reading online, and found that sometimes the 440t4 transmissions should be filled about a quart over the fill line. Naturally, I was skeptical, but figured "what the heck, I'll give it a shot." After very cautiously adding fluid and checking everything, I took the Reatta for a test drive. To my pleasant surprise, everything worked as it should, with no slipping or shuddering, even through winding mountain roads. I am cautiously optimistic about this, and I will test drive again later tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie1 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Watch for foaming and listen for a wining noise. This can happen when over filled... Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 Watch for foaming and listen for a wining noise. This can happen when over filled... Good LuckThank you. I will be watching and listening carefully for anything out of the ordinary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Speaking of vacuum, how many pounds of vacuum is there supposed to be in each gear selection? I tested the line at the modulator and at the manifold, and every gear came back with 15 or less pounds of vacuum.Vacuum is most commonly measured in inches of mercury or Hg. At hot idle in gear, I usually see about 16"-17" of manifold vacuum, but 15" sounds okay depending on the local barometric pressure. Even though located at about 850 ft. above sea level, barometer tends to run high here, usually around 30"Hg. Should be slightly higher at idle in park. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 First of all, I really appreciate everybody's help and knowledge with trying to understand my transmission issues. Now for an update...Update: The trans. has quit slipping out of gear at stops. However, there is a shudder present every time I am in 4th gear with the TCC locked. Does anybody know what the cause of this is? Is this a fixable problem by me, or do I need a trans. shop input?Thanks again for all of your help with this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 89 Maui Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Have you tried going into diagnostics, (turn off all fans), with the ignition ON but engine not running to ECM OUTPUTS and selecting TCC and selecting "override" then listening to the transmission to hear the TCC solenoid activating. Listen carefully because it is difficult to hear. If you hear it then the TCC solenoid is working properly and your shutter problem is due to another problem, but if you hear the solenoid activate once but not repetative then the solenoid is not releasing when the ECM is deactivating the solenoid. Thus when the TCC does not release the solenoid, due to a sticking solenoid, the transmission could shutter. The TCC solenoid is only a $35 cost but in order to remove it, the transmission must be dropped to gain access to the end of the transmission to get inside to change it out, labor cost $800 to $1,200. Maybe a good time to change the trans fluid and trans check-out while they have it open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Have you tried going into diagnostics, (turn off all fans), with the ignition ON but engine not running to ECM OUTPUTS and selecting TCC and selecting "override" then listening to the transmission to hear the TCC solenoid activating. Listen carefully because it is difficult to hear. If you hear it then the TCC solenoid is working properly and your shutter problem is due to another problem, but if you hear the solenoid activate once but not repetative then the solenoid is not releasing when the ECM is deactivating the solenoid. Thus when the TCC does not release the solenoid, due to a sticking solenoid, the transmission could shutter.I have gone and looked at that, but when I get to the EO01 output on the ECM output page, the TCC shows as cycling between HI and LO even without me pressing 'override'. :confused: While it is "cycling" without my activation, I cannot hear anything coming from the transmission.Also, wouldn't something like this throw a code 26 QDM fault? Just curious, because the TCC solenoid is mentioned on ROJ as a test for the error code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 89 Maui Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 When you selected the ECO 001 TCC then depress the override it indicates by the flashing that the ECM is sending the signals to operate the TCC solenoid but does not quantify that the solenoid is operating. You have to hear the solenoid operating to justify that the solenoid is working. You may want to retry this test and like I indicated turn off fans to have the engine bay as quiet as possible to hear the solenoid. One thing you might want to do is use a long bar (approx 18-24") and place one end on the housing of the trans and the other end against your ear. This will amplify the solenoid sound through the bar to your ear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Ah I understand now! Thank you for clearing that up for me. I performed the test as you said, and I could hear the solenoid clicking properly. One thing I did notice was that the front mount on top of the engine was not tight, as in I was able to move it a little by hand. I am guessing that it is supposed to be tight? Could bad engine mounts give a shudder, or is this strictly transmission related? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 89 Maui Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Since you could hear the solenoid clicking then we must look elsewhere for the problem. When you mentioned the motormount what and where are you indicating was loose? The Reatta doesn't have what you think of as motormounts, the Reatta uses cradle mounts, 2 in the rear of the engine and one in the front and I have not heard of a cradle mount loosening. The cradle mount rubber bushings can become dry rotted or the bolt, nut and washers rusting. If you tightened down what you found loose have you taken it out on the road and check it for shuttering.Maybe others can chime in if they know what could be causing your shuttering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 I am referencing the torque strut. (I believe I have that right) I will tighten it and see what happens.Also, sorry for any confusion I might cause, as I am still learning about this car. Thanks for all of the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 You could try "Dr Tranny Instant shudder fixx" Made by international Lubricants inc. from Seattle WA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 I think you mean the "dog bone" located on the top. Very inexpensive and easy to replace... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Anderson Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 You could try "Dr Tranny Instant shudder fixx" Made by international Lubricants inc. from Seattle WA.Thanks Jon, I will definitely give this a try! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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