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Oil cooler question on 32 57 series sedan


8014haar

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So I am fishing for a solution to oil filtration on my 1932 series 57 engine. Not really worried about being "all original" on this project. The oil cooler on this car was removed and a U shaped return tube was fashioned to replace it. A common fix as I understand it for the leaking originals.

I was wondering if I could use a modern spin on filter adaptor connected to the block fittings to run the engine oil thru a new style filter. I would like to do away with the filter system that only filters oil going to the rocker arms and just go from block to head with the small 1/4" line. My question is, what wide of the oil cooler is the feed side, and which is the return? Will this idea work to get me filtered oil to all the engine passages and am I running the risk of changing oil pressure where it is needed to be kept high or low.

Thanks,

Greg

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Greg,

A complete filter kit is available to use a spin filter inside a canaster to look like an original. But you also mention "oil coler" which is a separate item on the side of the block, small rectangular when viewed from the side, with a Buick script.

John

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I am aware of the NOS look alike kit for the rocker arm only filtration, as from the factory. This is a driver in original unrestored, painted with a brush condition. I just want a modern filter that is connected to the main oil flow of the engine so I can get some of the dirt out of the system after I drop the pan and clean out the sludge. This car has been sitting for 35 years or so. Rockers were plugged up and stuck, but now work perfectly. Don't want to go thru the engine, just get it to running/driving condition before selling it.

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The forward fitting is the discharge from the oil pump, and the rear goes back into the oil pump for flow to the bearings. Remember, there is a bypass valve in the oil pump that with flow resistance, will bypass the oil cooler. If your filter has too much resistance you will run in a bypass mode. I don't know how you know when it is bypassing or flowing through the filter or cooler?? It sounds like a lot of work to fool with a filter rig. You cleaned the pan and are now running detergent oil in the system. Run the car and watch the color of oil on the dipstick. If it gets black, change oil again. Non detergent oil was the big culprit for the sludge buildup. Many Cars into the 50's didn't have filters as standard equipment. With frequent oil changes and lots of driving, your engine will run fairly clean and for a long time. My Model A has no filter, my 53 Chevy has no filter. I've got over 70,000 miles on the chevy with no engine teardown. Babbit bearings are very forgiving as compared to the new insert bearings.

Just my opinion!

Bob Engle

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Bob,

Thanks for your reply. I have not done the pan clean out yet and probably won't go to detergent oil in this old engine without a rebuild. I am assuming I can get the pan off while the engine is still in the car and give it a good cleaning. I might as well take a look at the pump while I am at it, but I was not aware of the bypass valve. Wonder if I can (or should) eliminate the valve to get full time filtering. I may just try some clear plastic lines to test my idea. Wonder what the pressure cut off point is?

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With this engine sitting for 35 years, you will probably find 2 inches of sludge on the bottom of the pan. The oil pickup screen will be embedded in the sludge. All standard oils are detergent oil today. You would need to search hard to find non detergent oil. If you want to clean the oil system, drop the pan and clean the pan a d screen. Run the engine with an economy oil. and change it when it looks bad on the dip stick. After several cycles you will have cleaned the system as good as the engine condition will need. Modifying the oil system only adds risk of creating problems. These oiling systems work quite fine with modern oil.

Bob

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