What type of glue or adhesive should be used for Air Cleaner labels?

[Guest Rob J]

I've bead blasted and repainted my Air Cleaner and now need to attach the new aluminum 10" Wildcat 445 round label. It did not come with any type of adhesive or adhesive backing to my surprise. What have you guys used to attach it to the air cleaner lid?

Here's a pic of my restored air cleaner. Stupid flash on the camera shows the surface dust. It looks way better in person.

[petelempert]

R-I used 3M Scotchweld HT700. It is viscous but not too liquid or too gummy, clear and importantly can take the under hood heat. As far as the aluminum label, I learned two tricks: One from Jim Cannon...Get a few strong magnets to hold the halves of the disk together while the adhesive is drying otherwise the disk wants to separate and you'll be left with a noticeable gap. You want to avoid any gap if possible. The second from me...See if you can find a paint match for the red color on the disk decal (Testors Red Baron red at Hobby Lobby worked for me) then carefully paint the inside leading edges of the disk where the halves meet and the aluminum shows slightly. Careful not to get the paint on the actual decal facing side of the disk. You only need about a drop of red paint to paint this hairline section where the decal stops and the aluminum substrate shows through. Let that dry, then use the adhesive, magnets etc. The benefit of this trick is that the seam (or gap) where the halves meet virtually disappears. Good luck. PRL

[Guest Rob J]

Where are you guys buying this HT700 Adhesive? Almost $25.00 for a one ounce bottle. As we say here in Miami. DE PINGA!!!!! :eek:

[RIVNIK]

I used 3M General Purpose 45 spray adhesive, carefully masked off the area outside the circle, put a light coat on both surfaces, and joined them fairly quickly. It has held tight for several years. I have run into trouble on more than one occasion trying to spread liquid adhesive evenly with a brush on large surfaces. The spray eliminates the problem of blobs and drying too fast. however, both of PLRs tips are brilliant, especially painting the joining edges.

[Lapham3]

I've done a number of these and just use plain old 'rubber cement' (in the bottle with the brush cap)=does just fine for years and years-good luck Dan Mpls. Mn.

[Guest REX STALLION]

3M spray 77 is what I used, five years and holding:)

[Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel]

I used some silicone that I got from Gardener in an exhaust kit. I figured if it can take exhaust heat it would take the under hood temps. Squeezed out the tube and carefully pressed the tin down with a towel and wide plastic body putty blade. Worked way better than expected!