wheel id

[cool57]

Can someone identify the year of this wheel by the center cap?

[JZRIV]

Most likely a 71 and up wheel. If they priovide the code stamped on the rim we can tell for sure. Or have them remove the center and see if the cone sticks out beyond the edge of the rim which if it does its 71 and up. Can't be certain based on center only because people have been known to modify centers to fit hole size other than intended.

[cool57]

Here is his answer: 5 oE 78 895 MW 4 DOT 6 JJT 15x6

[Guest Gseago]

I don't mean to hijack cool57's thread but can someone post pictures of the different year rally wheels. I think this is the most asked question when it comes to wheels (I've asked myself and still can't tell the difference in them.) I know there difference is discussed on the ROA website but I think a picture of each year posted here and on the ROA website will help out a lot of people both buying and selling.

[RivNut]

As Jason says there's only two ways to tell the difference. 1) Decode it using the stamped number. 2) Lay it on it's face. If it rocks on the center it's a 71 and later. If it doesn't rock, it's a '65 - '70. Within the 65-70 range you need the code # to know exactly what you have. There's a table on the ROA's website in the Tech Tips section that describes each code number. I bought three off ebay a year ago from the same guy who took them off the same car. When I got them home, two of them were the later models and one was the earlier version. Hard to tell if you don't look closely, I thought I did, but not closely enough.

Ed

[Guest Gseago]

As Jason says there's only two ways to tell the difference. 1) Decode it using the stamped number. 2) Lay it on it's face. If it rocks on the center it's a 71 and later. If it doesn't rock, it's a '65 - '70. Within the 65-70 range you need the code # to know exactly what you have. There's a table on the ROA's website in the Tech Tips section that describes each code number. I bought three off ebay a year ago from the same guy who took them off the same car. When I got them home, two of them were the later models and one was the earlier version. Hard to tell if you don't look closely, I thought I did, but not closely enough.

Ed

:cool:

[JZRIV]

Here is his answer: 5 oE 78 895 MW 4 DOT 6 JJT 15x6

Yep - those are 71 and up wheels

[cool57]

Yep - those are 71 and up wheels

oh well, I'll just keep looking ;-)

[RivNut]

Your '63 wasn't available from the factory with the rally wheels. If they're that hard to tell apart, there's probably no reason to not install them and use what ever cap you think looks best. I have the rally wheels on my 63 and 64 and use the 66 - 70 finned cone caps. I may be wrong about this, but I don't think so; at least with the 71 and later wheels, you don't have to remove register ring so the wheels will fit the 63/64 large hub.

I've seen 1st generation cars with these wheels. If you don't use the 7d1 and later center cap, they look fine.

Ed

[cool57]

Ed, do you think that there would be a problem with the wheel seating against the brake drum? As for center caps, I may devise something for a custom look, such as a bullet.

[JZRIV]

Ed, do you think that there would be a problem with the wheel seating against the brake drum? As for center caps, I may devise something for a custom look, such as a bullet.

I know for a fact they will hit on a 66-67 and think I've read they hit on first gen cars as well. I've seen the unethical use of crude spacers on the stud sandwiched between the wheel and hub to move the wheel out a bit so it didn't make contact........but that is unsafe in case you were pondering it.

[cool57]

I would not use spacers, don't like 'em.

[RivNut]

On my '63, I have a set of '67 wheels (don't know if they're for drums or disks) and I didn't use spacers. I just took a chisel and removed the register ring from the wheels. It would probably easier to use a die grinder on them but at the time I didn't have one. I drove them that way for thousands of miles (the car was my daily driver for a number of years) and I've never had any problems. I also have a set on my '64 (wheel year / code unknown) and they too don't have a fitment problem and I'm not using spacers on them either. With 225/70R15 tires on each car, I have some minor rub when I turn the wheel full lock to the left, but I never do that while I'm driving. You can see a bright spot on the head of a rivet on the frame, but there's nothing showing on the back of the tire. Once Buick came out with the smaller hub in '65, the same wheel fit fine. It's only the small diameter of the register ring and the large diameter of the hub that cause a problem on the 63/64s. Once the register ring is gone, the problem is gone.

[cool57]

Good info Ed. Are width, and backspace a correct fit?

[cool57]

While on the subject of wheel changes, how difficult is it to change the driver side lugs to rh threads? My only real concern is getting chrome lug nuts in left-handed thread.

[RivNut]

If you look for Gorilla products lug nuts on Summit or Jegs, you'll be able to find the LH chrome lug nuts. All Chrysler products used LH lugs on the left sides of their cars for a number of years. They used the same 1/2" x 20 threads as did the Riviera. Just make sure that you get the tapered ones. The taper is what holds the wheel tightly in place against the drums and keep everything centered.

Gorilla Lug Nuts 71187L - SummitRacing.com Pack of four. You either need to buy three packs and have a couple of extras or put locking nuts on each wheel. Locks are available but you'll need to contact your supplier about them. The package says 4 RH/LH. Can't be both. Are there two of each or do you need to specify when ordering. These should also be available at O'Reillys, AutoZone, Advance Auto, NAPA, etc. (Amazon. com will probably have a better price. )

The easiest way to change the left front is to find a '64 brake drum, or you can have the LH ones pressed out and have RH ones pressed in. You can remove the studs from the rear axle but that's a lot of work. It's much easier to buy the LH nuts and make sure the tire jockies at Firestone know what you have.

The chart on the Tech Tips about rally wheel identification will tell you what the backspacing of each wheel is. I'm not home and don't have access to the site from the computer I'm using or I'd post the link. There might be minor differences but for the most part, the wheels are pretty much the same. They're all 15" x 6" with the 5 on 5" bolt pattern. One difference is the diameter of the center cap hole; that can make a difference on what center cap you can use. There's also a difference in what type of rim seating (71 and later is JJ, but I don't know off hand what the earlier ones are) but that too is a moot point.

One of the advantages of ROA membership is access to the Tech Tips. Lots of questions asked here can be answered instaneously by referring to the website.

Ed

[cool57]

Once again, thank you Ed!

[1965rivgs]

Backspacing on the `64 to `70 wheels is very different as compared to `71 and up, not including the later 7" wheels. That is why the `71 and up center projects farther outboard (equals rim inboard) as compared to the `64-`70 wheel. The backspacing difference is what may or may not cause fitment problems (subject to the contour of the fins on the drum and whether there are weights on the inside edge of the rim) when installing `71 and up wheels onto earlier cars. This is a SAFETY issue because it is possible, if using the wrong offset wheel, that the inside edge of the rim will seat against the fins on the brake drum before the lug area of the rim seats on the axle. If this occurs it gives the impression the rim is tight in the lug nut area when, in fact, it is tight against the fins of the brake drum. The wheel may loosen up while in service. If you want more detail as to the differences in each generation of Road Wheel (best to call, too much info to type for a thorough Q and A) my contact info is in the Riview under Technical Sources/Technical Advisors. Good luck,

Tom Mooney

[cool57]

Thanks Tom. I have been looking at the wheel chart on club site. There is a significant amount of difference in back spacing among the years. One half inch actually between the 71 and up and earlier wheels. 3 3/8 vs 3 7/8.