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Car Hauler Trailer Questions?


DCE

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I am in the process of purchasing an enclosed car trailer to haul a 1915 Touring Car. The total length of car is 160" (13', 4"). The total height of the car with the touring top in the up position is 83".

I have a number of questions for the seasoned experts.

1. Would a 20' trailer with a V nose be large enough to haul this car. I am uncertain how much extra space is required to tie down the axles and what the optimum angle for the tie downs would be?

2. Would it be best to transport this vehicle with the touring top in up position? If so, I would have to order a trailer to allow for the additional height?

3. Do most folks leave the tops up when transporting their vehicles?

Thank you so much for your input. I appreciate your thoughts and knowledge.

Best regards,

Dale

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1. It depends on what tie-down system you use, but I should think 20 feet would be plenty. I have had a 24-foot trailer in which I could carry BOTH a 10-horse Stanley (104-inch wheelbase and 33-inch-diameter tires) AND a Model T (99-inch wheelbase and 30-inch-diameter tires). There was room - barely! - to criss-cross tie-downs from the axles. Actually, the trailer was plenty long enough, but I had to be a real contortionist to attach the front and middle tie-downs. You shouldn't have this problem with only one car in the trailer. My new trailer is the same length, but has what I consider a much better system. My tie-downs wrap over the tires like a bra cup (same principle - they go around the soft parts and keep them from bouncing) and tie straight down. No criss-cross, no pulling the front axle forward and the rear one back, no crawling under the car to attach straps. And, if one tie-down gets loose, the opposite one isn't dragging the car sideways. (Guess how I found THAT out!)

2. My garages are too low for my cars with tops up, so I park, and trailer, top down. Since I prefer to drive top down anyway except in monsoons, I have no problem with this. However, some cars have heavy tops and weak bodies. I had a wooden-bodied two-cylinder Buick that got body damage from the huge cantilevered top bouncing up and down. Simple solution: Glue some padding to one side of an eight-foot 2x4. Suspend the 2x4 from the top of the trailer to the car top rests on the padded 2x4, instead of on the body supports. (You'll have to unstrap the top from the supports to do this.) The car will be free to bounce up and down under the folded top, but the top itself will be separately supported and there will be no strain on the body.

Gil Fitzhugh, Morristown, NJ

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Guest Mochet

Here is an interesting trailer thread. One fellow comments that he hauls his Ford Model T in a 7' X 16' trailer, smaller than the usual 8.5' trailer width. His comment was the narrower width makes the trailer easier to haul though city traffic. There are dozens (hundreds?) of trailer makers, and it is difficult to choose. Some of the choices:

- Aluminum vs steel

- Ramp vs "barn" door

- Vee-nose vs flat front

- Winch vs drive-on loading

- Big name maker (Wells Cargo, etc.) vs. lower-price maker

Phil

Edited by R W Burgess (see edit history)
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My dad has a 7x16 enclosed Haulmark that he ordered new with extra height. It carries his '25 Franklin touring which is larger and probably taller than a T. The smaller size allows it to be towed by a smaller tow vehicle. We use a Dodge Dakota which tows it very nicely. It's also easy to park and handle.

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Dale,

Where will you store the trailer ?

That is a fundamental question because I recommend you buy a trailer as long as practicable for you to tow .... 1343795-scratchchin.gif

Also, get a curbside entry door (not a hatch) installed about a foot behind the V nose to allow

easy access to the front of the vehicle ... thumbs.gif

Consider E trac for a tie down system, it is versatile and adequate .... whistling.gif

Jim drive.gif

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