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1925 DB Transmission rebuild


Guest drf24

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Guest drf24

I am in need of some help. After some strange noises when I release the clutch. All of the noises sounded like they were coming from the pressure plate/ throw out bearing area. I really didnt know what kind of shape the bearings and seals were in so I decided to pull the transmission and go through it. I did find some metal in the bottom after draining the oil out. To rebuild it and do it right I am going to need to buy 2nd gear and replace the bearings. If anyone tell me where I can find a new or used gear bearings etc..

Another question, how do you get the clutch apart? I have the throw out bearing off but after that I am leery due to the tension in the pressure plates.

Thanks for any help

Dean

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The clutch housing and pressure plate should come off as a unit with no problems. Just undo the bolts holding it onto the flywheel. At least that's the way my 32 DB and 48 Plymouth worked. Maybe someone with a 25 has a better answer.

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Guest drf24

On my '25 the clutch and pressure plates come off with the transmission. You have to disassemble the throw out bearing "arm" to get the clutch and throw out bearing to pull free from the transmission. The throw out bearing comes off after you remove a lock ring. I forgot to mention the pressure plates are a diaphragm style. I am at the point now that I think I am going to need to used a press to safely take the pressure plates and friction plates apart. I will get some pictures of it this week when I get a chance to work on it again.

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Check out this video:

It shows a stop motion sequence of a guy rebuilding a 1925 DB transmission. I don't know if it will help, but it shows him fitting the disassembled clutch/pressure plate to the trans shaft, then later installing the assembled unit.

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Is there any way of slowing down the film?

drf24,

I have read in the Dodge Brothers mechanics instruction manual that if you simply replace the bearings; unless there is only very little wear in the shaft on which the gears slide, you could find that the noise from the transmission is even worse than you started with. Wear in the shaft is likely to be present and unfortunately not something for which I have an answer. I think we could both benefit from hearing from someone who has experienced this problem and managed to resolve it. Perhaps metal spraying and regrinding is the way to go? Also, I expect replacement gears need to be matched so just replacing the most damaged one may not be entirely satisfactory.

On the other hand, straight cut gears will always sing their own song so we might as well relax and enjoy the mechanical music!

Ray.

Edited by R.White (see edit history)
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Guest drf24

I have pretty bad wear on what I am guessing to be second gear. I not only found the wear but I also found small pieces of the gear. The gear I am speaking of slips into the gear that spins the speedometer

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Hello Bill. As you are doing the rebuild can you tell us what is the condition of the top shaft in your transmission? If wear is present, how would you go about restoring it? Ideally, the gears need to slide without too much back lash.

Ray.

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Guest drf24

Yep its top gear and I tore it the rest of the way down after some pictures and one of the counter shaft bearings is shot. There is a picture of what is left.

post-87368-14314179986_thumb.jpg

post-87368-143141799819_thumb.jpg

post-87368-143141799846_thumb.jpg

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Yep its top gear and I tore it the rest of the way down after some pictures and one of the counter shaft bearings is shot. There is a picture of what is left.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]182966[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182967[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182968[/ATTACH]

DOH

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Adding to Homer's undoubtedly useful contribution...... I cannot find any transmission gears in Myer's on line catalogue but the good news is that the countershaft is available.

Ray.

;)

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You should be able to replace the bearings with modern sealed ones available at any good bearing supply company. For my '24 transmission, I used #207 ZRS in the front and #208ZRS in back. I replaced my countershaft with a new one from Tom Myers Early Dodge Parts. Also I will have those gears left over from my build if you need them.

Bill

Edited by fiddlerbill (see edit history)
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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest drf24

Thanks for all of the replies and help. I was able to find both of the roller bearings at Motion Industries and everything else was sourced from Myers Early Dodge, thanks Tom and Cindy! Everything is back in now, but I am pulling the transmission back out to space the input shaft so the clutch will actually disengage. I tested this to make sure it is going to work by slipping a 1/4" shim I cut in half. Works excellent. Thanks again for everyone's help locating parts.

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Thanks for all of the replies and help. I was able to find both of the roller bearings at Motion Industries and everything else was sourced from Myers Early Dodge, thanks Tom and Cindy! Everything is back in now, but I am pulling the transmission back out to space the input shaft so the clutch will actually disengage. I tested this to make sure it is going to work by slipping a 1/4" shim I cut in half. Works excellent. Thanks again for everyone's help locating parts.

Hey Dean, I am glad you fixed up the transmission. I am not clear though what you need to do with the input shaft to get the clutch to disengage. I am sure your plan is clear to you but I am unfamiliar with this clutch/gearbox and would really appreciate either a more detailed explanation or perhaps even some photos if that is possible. Thankyou.

If I need to rebuild my transmission, I may call on you for some of those parts.

Ray.

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