Guest thetservice Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Hello all,I posted in the "cars in the UK" thread yesterday and it was suggested I start a new thread as I had a few questions!I work on Ford Model Ts but I have just picked up a 1924 Tourer that hasn't been used for a number of years. I know nothing about Dodge cars apart from what I have picked up so far. I managed to start the car and drive it today after priming the autovac unit but the car cuts out once the canister is empty as it won't pull the fuel through from the tank at the moment. I will make some new gaskets as the ones on there are really poor and then see how we get on. The previous owner had a bottle of parrafin under the seat for some reason, any suggestions why he might have been carrying it?I would like to confirm the operation of the two column mounted levers. I believe the lower one (closest to the dash) is ignition advance and retard? To start I believe this is set to the lowest position? and then raised once running?The other appears to be a hand throttle?I'd also like some ideas on basics such as tyre pressures and what oil people recommend. The "dipstick" float seems to indicate there is plenty of oil (is there any gauge?) but it would be nice to put some fresh oil in as the car has been standing so long.I'd also be grateful if anyone could identify the model, engine size and power and whether things like the disc wheels are original?Many thanks in advance!Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Your are correct on the operation of the column sectors. Lower is retard/advance. Always start with it fully retarded and then move it up once the engine starts. Engine oil is straight 30W. I use non-detergent and there is some disagreement in using detergent verses non-detergent. I am referencing my 1919 car so yours being so new there may not be much concern. Tire pressure is on the side of the tires. I usually run around 40 psi.There should be two marks on the block, one for high and the other for low. Usually if you are about 1/2 inch from the top you are full.'Touring' would be the model style as DB did not use models until later (someone will correct me if your car is new enough). Wheelbase was an important distinguishing factor. I will check on the artillery wheels. Usually these were more for closed sedans, but I like the look. What diameter wheels are they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Nice looking car there! Disc wheel were a popular option in the U.S. and those look correct. It appears someone retrofitted an electric fuel pump on the firewall. I'd get rid of that and check what the vacuum tank (mounted on the motor) looks like inside. The oil level hi/lo indicators are cast into the block. They are not easy to see if things are dirty in there. I've never seen nickel plated windshield stanchions before (nice idea). The engine is 221 cubic inch (iirc) and compression should be around 50 psi. Not sure about the paraffin... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Great looking Dodge Richard! Someone put a lot of money and time into the restoration, I wish my seats and top were as nice as yours. I don't believe the colors are correct for a Dodge of that era, but again, it looks good. The vacuum tank system is a good, dependable system when restored. I like the lower, secondary fuel shut-off valve-- I'd leave it be. The car looks very good with the Ford Model A "Tea Cup" tail lights, a big difference from the original one which was on the left side only, which was a drum style body lamp that had a bracket from the frame tail. I also really like the chromed windshield stanchions! The back of the front seat originally had a hinged rail, or rack to hold a blanket, known as a "lap robe" for warmth for the mother-in-law in the back seat. As far as the "paraffin" goes, I take it is a bottle of oil. Over here in the States, paraffin usually congers thoughts of a solid chunk of wax. There is paraffin based oils, usually for sewing machines and so forth, yours was probably used for oiling the horn bearings along with the oiler on the rear of the starter/generator, and the distributor. Keep us posted and ask any questions you have. See if you can buy a reprint manual in your area OR from Myer's Early Dodge & Romar's Dodge Parts here in the states. "The Book Of Information" and the "Mechanic's Handbook" for your '24 is invaluable. Good luck!---Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest thetservice Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Hi 72Caddy, thanks for the info. I use the same oil in Model Ts so that's handy! I forgot to check today but I think the wheels are 21" with a 5" tyre.Mike, I had the autovac apart and it has been lined with tank sealant I think, otherwise pretty good. The fuel pump has been added as a "primer" I think and wasn't working. I got it running but it still doesn't draw suffieciently from the tank!Pete, agreed, someone has spent a lot on it. The original colour appears to have been black. Not keen on the blues myself but it's still an attractive car. I added the fuel shutoff after experience with Model Ts where they have a habit of draining themselves if left to their own devices! The Model A lights look kind of "period" and solve the problem of brake/side and indicators. The seat back has the fittings for the robe rail but it is missing unfortunately. The parrafin is definitely a liquid with a consistency of water so still baffled on that one. Thanks too for the suggestion as to where to get a manual. The car will have to take a back seat for a while as I have other work I need to get on with.Cheers,Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platt-deutsch Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Check with Meyers Early Dodge Parts 734-856-1207 www.meyersearlydodge.comRomar Also has manuals and most parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Richard, speaking of "taking a back seat" with the Dodge, I'm shooting off a picture of the robe rail in my '25 tourer. It is solid 1/2 inch steel, two end bends, nothing fancy. I'm thinking it is original, but I can't compare it to another unless someone else pipes in. This could be easily made right in your own shop. You're going to love that Dodge car. I'm thinking your car has the same "Budd" bodied all steel assembly as my '25. NO squeaky, rotten wood in body at all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Richard, speaking of "taking a back seat" with the Dodge, I'm shooting off a picture of the robe rail in my '25 tourer. It is solid 1/2 inch steel, two end bends, nothing fancy. I'm thinking it is original, but I can't compare it to another unless someone else pipes in. This could be easily made right in your own shop. You're going to love that Dodge car. I'm thinking your car has the same "Budd" bodied all steel assembly as my '25. NO squeaky, rotten wood in body at all!I have seen pictures/images of these rails and also seen them on E-bay, that looks correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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