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1920 6 cylinder Buick Radiator


frank burns

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Frank, I have a couple of solutions for you. I know that many will disagree, so hopefully they will chime in.

It is worth a shot if the leaks are more of a weep than gusher to use a stop leak product. In the old days some folks used sawdust.

Or you can pull the radiator and take it to an "old time" facility in your are and they can try to use low heat lead to stop the leaks. If the guy is good then this is a good way to go. But you have to find the right shop to work on the old iron.

Lastly, you might must have to have a new core made. There are several that do this in the period weave, but it is expensive.

Some will put in a modern core, but slice off a slab of the old radiator and put it in front of the new core to make it look old.

What every you decided to do make sure that you do not put air pressure to the radiator or I guarantee you will blow out many more seams and the radiator will be junk. Good luck. Let us know what you decided to do and the outcome.

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Thanks all for your quick response. The leaks are coming from inside the core and there are no damaged fins that I can see. The car only has 5500 miles on it and was always garaged . I am confident

of the mileage and would like to keep this radiator. From any side there are no dings . Has anybody used a sealer such as Bars leak Aluminum or Blue Devel . This would be my preference if it has a

good chance of working. I live in the Hartford Ct area and thank you for your input.

Frank

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Hi Frank, I Also have a 1920 Buick 6 cly. Touring car K-45 In excellent original condition. Sorry I cant help with the rad. problem but feel free to contact me on any thing else. Bill WEB 38

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Frank, Please refer to the thread a little further down about the 1923 Buick 6-cylinder radiator. I have a 1920 K-46 3-Passenger Coupe. My car has LESS than 5,000 ACTUAL DOCUMENTED miles on it since being built. Now, back to the radiator issue on your car. I have a good friend out in Rome, New York who has a 1923 Model 48. His radiator was seeping from the top tank area. The biggest problem for him was that there was no 'old time' radiator shop in his area that had the experience to fix it for him. He ended up sending it out to a radiator shop in Hutchinson, Kansas that has been in business for over 60 years. They had if fixed in less than 2 hours after they got it unboxed. Putting any kind of sealer in a non-pressurized cooling system is really not a good idea. Your radiator could not be hurt that bad with the extremely low mileage on it. What John said is for the most part correct about pressure testing a radiator like this. However, they checked my friend's radiator under 1/2 pound of pressure while it was submerged in the water tank to make double sure that there were no other problems that might be missed while they had it in the shop. The radiator is rock solid.

Why don't you call or email me and let's visit about your Buick.

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

Phone/Fax - (620) 665-7672

eMail - terrywiegand@prodigy.net

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  • 2 weeks later...

Frank al of the 1919 and 1920 Buick touring cars that I have ever seen have been two tone with the fenders painted black and the engine side of the firewall also black. The origenal bodies were painted with a product called Japan varnish. Bill

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