Repairing 1920s Aluminum Trim

[1925Stanley]

I'm seeking advice on restoring aluminum trim on my 1925 Stanley. The visor was badly damaged by a collapsing roof and the aluminum trim needs to be straightened.

It is held in place with steel nails that are set into the aluminum trim. Needless to say, the nails are a rusty mess.

How does one smooth out this damaged piece (I cannot find anything that replaces it correctly) and what is the best technique for removing the rusty nails and replacing them, perhaps with stainless so they never rust again?

Thanks very much!

Don Hoke

[Guest BobD735]

Hi,

Your problem appears to be more than cosmetic. Judging by your photos, the aluminum trim cannot be "smoothed out" nor "straightened".

Your first step, in my opinion, would be to replicate the badly damaged existing wooden visor. It appears to be a fairly simple wooden structure. As you're rebuilding the leading edge area, find an aluminum extruded piece which closely matches your existing aluminum remains. By going this route, the leading edge height of your new wooden visor can be made to match the new aluminum trim height. Once the new waterproof covering is placed on your new frame, the new aluminum trim, with pre-drilled holes, would be held in place as before, but with aluminum nails.

That would be my approach to your dilemma.

Lots of luck,

Bob

[keiser31]

I second what BobD735 said.

[Bhigdog]

Roger that. There is an almost infinate variety of extrusions available. Since you will be making a new visor it should be relatively easy to adapt the visor to the new trim. If your pockets are fairly deep having an extrusion custom made is an option............................Bob

[Friartuck]

Don,

Pretty much what has been said, replicate the wooden frame and strengthen the existing if necessary. Get familiar with Kwik Poly (www.kwikpolylllc.com) That may save you some agravation for the salvaging existing wood. As for metal work, a Discussion Forum member had a nasty accident with his Spartan trailer and the insurance adjuster steering him to a local aviation tin smith. With the private plane industry on its ass, you might find one in your area aggreeable to take on a special project. Also there are News Groups for many vocations like machining, wood working and you guess it; Tin smiths. These are the guys that make suits of armor and are real craftsman. Do a google search and consider that avenue. As for nails, the Model A restorers like Brattons has stainless oval heads or look at Restoration Supply in Escondido, CA (www.restorestuff.com) I think this is their website. Take before and after photos and post on the Restoration Page, many could benefit from your project.

[60ch]

Don,

I do not agree that the aluminum trim cannot be straightened. I did it on the aluminum top trim on a Wood framed sedan body. In the removal of the nails, rotten wood is your friend because you will not have to pry the nails out of the wood and do more damage. There are other options but if you want the original type of trim that was used on your car you most likely will not find it new anywere but on your car or one like it. The one change that I made was to use small screws instead of nails to attach the trim. My thought was that while I would most likely never rewood the car again, there was always the possibility that the top material might need to be replaced. To remove nails from hardwood by prying would destroy the aluminum trim but also the paint . Your aluminum is really not bad, it should be much easier than mine because your bends are gradual and not severe kinks. Terry

[Guest BobD735]

Hi Terry,

Your prognosis, at first look, of the situation regarding Don's aluminum trim on the right side of his visor seems plausible. However, on the opposite side, where "a collapsing roof ", took out everything, leaving mangled aluminum trim, may be the "good side".

A close-up look at Don's lower left photo of the radiused aluminum trim, shows that it's backed-up with a riveted second metal structure, radiused out to provide additional structural support. I'm pretty certain that support was originally provided at both corners of his visor, after 88 years of corrosive contact as evidenced by the close-up view, indicates to me intergranular corrosion between those parts.

Over on the "good side", the backing structure appears to be missing, which after further inspection of that area might shed some light regarding the extent and method of repair there.

Bob

Hi Don,

I'm still sticking with my initial route as the way to go on this one.

Bob

[60ch]

Hi Bob, From the condition of sheetmetal on the body and the original upholstery on the seats, I would guess that this car had been in relatively dry storage before the roof fell in. For that reason alone I would not use intergranular corrosion, galvanic corrosion or any other corrosion to discourage anyone from trying to restore any original part unless I had actually visually inspected the part first. If this is the first damage, the trim on the car while bent during the cave in,is most likely not work hardened to the point where it could not be straightened. We are not dealing with 6061-T6 here just a soft aluminum trim. I speak from experience because I have done it. Perhaps it is a glass half empty or half full thing. I look at these pictures and see potential. Terry

[Guest BobD735]

Hi Terry,

Please don't misunderstand my statements as pessimistic, nor a lack of encouragement toward anyone's pursuit at car restoration. I too speak from experience, having been deeply involved for many years, in the restoration of a 1920's car with far, far less potential than Don's.

There are various options one has to choose to go with, in their quest to restore their project car. These of course are based on finances, and their level of technical capabilities, and a combination of both. Plus the inputs gathered by people like you and I, who have had similar challenges, and are willing to share their experiences. Anything can be fixed. And as they say. "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder"

Regards,

Bob