Removing gas tank 1937 Buick Roadmaster

[Mutt's37Buick]

I'm trying to remove the gas tank on my 1937 Roadmaster as part of my frame off restoration.

I got the two straps loose and the gas line loose, but it still seems to be held in place.

1) Does the hex head in the middle of the bottom of the tank also need to be removed, or is that a plug?

2) Is there some thing else I'm missing, or should it now be loose for removal?

Thanks

[Guest JR9162]

OK, This is from page 8-1 of the 1938 Buick Shop Manual (hopefully the 37 tank is similar).

Removal of Fuel Tank:

- remove filler cap

- disconnect gas feed pipe from the gas guage pipe

- then disconnect the tank straps at rear end.

It is necessary to raise rear end of car about a foot to permit revolving the tank in twisting the filler neck out from between the body and frame. It is not necessary to loosen or remove the tail pipe on any Series to remove tank. After the tank is sufficiently removed as to provide access to the gasoline guage wire, it should be disconnected.

A sump has been provided to accumulate water or sediment which may enter tank.

A drain plug is provided to permit removal of foreign matter, and drain the tank when necessary.

The tank is insulated from the frame with anti squeak strips, and is attached by two heavy bands.

The filler neck is supported by a brace which is fastened to the tank instead of the frame to avoid strain on the neck due to relative motion of the tank and frame. All filler necks come out under the fender but do not protrude through it, being made accessible by a trap door in the fender.

The filler neck seat for the filler cap has a vent hole to prevent collapsing of the fuel tank.

Tank capacity: Series 40-60 18 gallons, Series 80-90 20 gallons.

I'd think if you have everything disconnected, it is probable the 75 year old anti-squeak insulation strips have bonded the tank to the gasoline tank support crossmember, or bottom of the trunk floor pan. You may have to break said bond to lower the tank. Be careful not to puncture the tank if you attempt to pry it loose. Loosely connected attachment bands will prevent the tank falling on you. I'd drain it before removing it. Gas weighs 6 lbs per gallon, and water 8.4 lbs per gallon.

I've helped remove (drop) 3000 lb centerline fuel tanks on F-4B and N Phantom II jets, some not completely empty due to transfer valve failure. Jet fuel weighs close to 7 lbs per gallon. Partially filled tanks can hurt you big time...

I hope the above info helps. John

[Pete Phillips]

I usually put a floor jack under the loosened tank, and let it down gradually, especially if it has gas in it. After you let the floor jack down, pull the jack out towards the rear of the car, with tank still sitting on it. This allows the tank to rotate with the filler neck up in the fender. Then, pull the jack out completely, raise the side of the tank which should now be directly under or sticking out from the rear bumper. This allows the filler neck to drop out of the fender well. Although the shop manual says you don't have to drop the tail pipe, it will be a LOT easier if you do disconnect the tail pipe from its hanger at the rear of the car.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas

[FLYER15015]

Mutt,

I agree with John and Pete's proceedures.

When I dropped the tank on my '40 LTD, we had her up on blocks so the rear wheels were about 6" off the floor.

I had to cut the old straps, which were paper thin and badly rusted.

I first drained the tank with that center plug you mentioned, cut the straps, and pulled the tank down by hand while lying on a creeper. It took some banging and pulling to break it free from the anti rattle stuff Buick put in the 2 cradle rails up on the top side.

At reinstall I used wash machine drain hose, slit length wise as an insulator on those top 2 cradle rails, and I made 2 new bottom straps using Chevy S-10 straps, to which I welded a "C" hook of 14ga to the front end, where it snaps in the slot in the front.

All this to replace a sending unit for the gas gage. We also cleaned the inside w/ a steam pressure washer, and repainted it w/ rustoleum flat black, rattle can style.

Just my $ .02..........and worth every penny

Mike in Colorado

[Mutt's37Buick]

Thanks everyone for your help. I'll give it another try with this info later today.

Mutt