Guest 37Packard Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Thanks for the info, Norm. I put everything back as you recommended. Now all I need to do is bleed it. I have a rubber hose a couple of feet long. I'm supposed to put it in a plastic bottle and loosen the bleeder, then have someone press the brake pedal to the floor, then tighten it while the brake pedal goes back up, then loosen it, have them press the brake pedal again, then tighten it while the pedal goes back up, and do this 5 or 6 times? I watched several videos on YouTube in the "bleed brakes" category and I think that's what I'm supposed to do, right? If not please let me know. My wife isn't going to want to spend half an hour or 45 minutes in the car helping me after a 9 1/2 hour day at work. Thanks again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfre Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 You are on your wayAl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Did you remember the cotter pin. Keep plenty of paper towel's handy. The hose is for the EPA, they don't want brake fluid seeping everywhere. Doesn't look like you have a museum chassis, I wouldn't worry about drip's, it's just nasty stuff, like any auto fluid.They objest of bleeding the line, is to be certain all AIR is expelled. Ideally, you tighten the bleeder valve while there is still pressure from the pedal, fill the resevoir each time the pedal is pumped (slowly pumped). The person at the valve should be giving command's to the pedal operator. You will be working on the shortest line in your system, this shouldn't take more than a couple of minute's.Attempt to collect the first fluid out of the line in a clear glass contaINER. To check for color, it may have a brown hue from rust; insight to your system.Initally, you can push the pedal to the floor...to get rid of old fluid. (refill) The resevoir can be open while doing this (push slowly to prevent splashing). "Open" the valve WHEN you give the command to push,,,,, "close" the valve BEFORE you give the command to stop.(refill) Your done when a clear stream of fluid is present (refill). It's not essential to push the pedal to the floor everytime, the object is to get rid of AIR. You are pushing fluid through the line. (refill) The pedal can SUCK air back into the line when released pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Could you do a bit of measuring??? Measure the diameter of the inside of the drum, and compare with the outside of the shoes. Just to give you an idea as to where the problem is. Also can't you move the shoes around a bit and then try? Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 (edited) Bleeding proceedure sounds goodSmall note,,,that washer with all the holes,,,IF you want a finer adjustment onthe inner nut,,,FLIP the washer with holes OVER,,and this will split the differencefor finer adjustment,,,,Some of the axle ends have 2 holes for cotter pin at 90d,,,and the castle nut has 6 positions so IF you want finer adj,,split the diff,,,,I dont think your axle has the 90d holes,,,but you may have a car that does one day,,,OOPs You do not have a castle nut,,so forget that part,,,,,,Info useful later??When you tighten the outer nut,,,it will take up any clearence in the thread,,!! and the adjustment will get tighter,,So you might need to re do that part,,,Twist on the nut/wrench should be governed by feel of bearing and drum,,,,not torque on nut,,Do the others here agree with me on this ??,,Most of my experiance is with pre '32,,,,more like 1910-'25Good luck,,,Ben Edited October 30, 2012 by cben09 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Did you re pack the bearings???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 (edited) Sound's good Ben, I didn't want to get sidetracked with tweeking thing's. Gosh, We don't know his name!.. The guy want's to locate a mechanic or perhap's a member, in his area for some of this work, which is why he's in this situation. Edited October 30, 2012 by Foggy norm (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 37Packard Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Gosh, We don't know his name! My name is Dave Dietmeyer and I live in Crestwood, KY which is 17 miles NE of Louisville at exit 17 of I-71. I didn't repack the bearings. Does that mean to add more grease? I remembered the cotter pin. I even put in a new one.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Hi Dave, that's not as rude as saying "that guy". I think everyone came to the conclusion, you took the car out for a test drive.....premature, maybe. Not an issue about the bearing's, yet. As grease get's older it breaks-down from heat and time and becomes a bit "water'y" which hinder's it's ability to cling to part's. Re-packing is pushing the stiff new grease through the bearing's, manually or with a special machine. You never want to see dry bearing's, your's are not dry or gritty. It's a preventive maintenance thing to refreshen the grease when you have certain part's available when working on something...like brakes.In these day's of multi-tasking, shortcut's with auto repairs is not a good thing. It only take's a few more second's to do something right...for safety and piece of mind, the "time" doesn't add-up in the long run. We all want to see that the car is doing well and you want to drive it, there's no BIG rush because someone's in a hurry. That car is not a feather, stopping is more important than everything else. Reason the emergency brake was invented. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 37Packard Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Success!!! My wife helped me bleed the brakes and I put on the wheel and tire and drove it up and down my driveway a few times. It did NOT pull to the right at all which it did before so that obviously means that the left front brake is working now. Thanks to all those who offered advice, encouragement and positive comments. If any of you are ever in the Louisville area let me know because there's a free home-cooked meal at our house waiting for you and the boss (wife) and also a few Motor Trends from the 50s and 60s to take home with you. (I have several boxes of MT and other car magazines from the 50s thru the 70s.) I won't be driving the car much for the next several months and in January or February I'll repack the front wheel bearings and do a few other things to it too like give it a good lube job. Thanks again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Good news for sure. When the weather is dry, a good test would be to find a local sandy road. Someplace where you can get a little speed, and do a panic stop, and also test your E brake. You can see what your brake's are doing by looking at the tire track's. With the price of part's, you may want to put you mag's on Ebay, to pay for them, hee hee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Hi Dave,,,Welcome aboard,,Hope you enjoy the Packard,,,and to"" Ask the men who own them "" Re the mags,,,,,, Or better yet put em on the buy-sell page here,,, e/bay is getting to be a pain,,and this is easier and more fun to meet people and have fun,,,This thing reaches around the world,,we are watching a 1923Packard total restoration in Australia,,,,and many parts found here in the states,,!!Cheers,,from Ben in [southern]] Maine,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 37Packard Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I've sold hundreds of old car magazines on Ebay starting at $9.99 each. I also sell old car brochures and old service/shop manuals. I've sold over 30,000 items to people in 40+ countries since 1999. I currently have about 175 auctions going. My user ID is Lucky13Publications. My driveway is about 100' long. I just did a few panic stops from about 20 mph and the car stopped fine. I know of a nice gravel road not far away where I can try it from 30 mph and then 40 and 50.Hey Ben, in June I was in southern Maine. A guy in Saco answered my ad in Hemmings for old car brochures, manuals and magazines. He had over 500 old brochures from the 30s to the 70s and every issue of Motor Trend starting with the first issue in September 1949. He didn't want to ship them but he said that "money isn't a problem" for him and that I could have everything for free if I would pick them up. I left my home just outside Louisville at 6 AM on a Friday and crossed into Maine at 9:15 PM. I was at his house just before 10 PM and loaded 20 boxes into my wife's new Honda CR-V and was only there 10 minutes. I stopped in New Hampshire and got 5 hours of sleep in a motel and then hit the road for home. I got home at 8:30 PM Saturday so I drove 2155 miles in 38 1/2 hours. The Honda had 600 miles on it when I left and 2700 the next evening. I made the trip on 6 tanks of gas and it worked out great. Are you anywhere near Saco? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cben09 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Hi Dave,,,Saco is about 3/4 hour,,, The motto around here,,,Shoot bear when bear's around,,,,, Good catch,,My interest is steam cars and early racing,,Have 1904-10 Horsless Age would like early to 1903 to cover the early stuff,,,I helped Richard Fraser with his book,,,Maine Built Automobiles,,1834-1934 over 300pages,,Racing 1900-1910 is so very interesting,,Have you run into any info on OldOrchard Beach racing here in Maine around 1910--1915 Bigger race than Daytona,,!! All for now,,,Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 37Packard Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Ben..............My only two other contacts in Maine are a guy named Doug Smith who owns a '47 Buick. He sold me a radiator a couple of years ago when I had a '49 Buick. I almost bought a car from Goldenrod Garage several years ago. I don't remember what town it's in but if you're into old cars you've probably heard of it. The only beach racing I ever heard of was down in Daytona. Thanks again.............Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 37Packard Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I put a few miles on the car today including about 10 miles on the interstate and the brakes worked great. It was leaking some antifreeze when I was replacing the brake cylinder so I bought a bottle of stop leak and dumped it in the radiator along with half a gallon of antifreeze before driving it around and when I got home there was no more leak. My next project is to paint a few areas on it where it's peeling. I went to an auto parts store and he scanned the paint with his scanner and said the color is Beechwood so I ordered 4 cans of it at $25.95 each. I'm going to sand down some of the areas where it's peeling and then spray some primer on it and then this Beechwood color. Hopefully it will turn out halfway decent (or better).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Darn Dave, there you go again, wish you would have asked before dumping that stuff in your motor. Remember one thing, did the car come with it from the factory. That stuff will clog your radiator, heater core and any small space where it will sit when not running. It could have been as simple as a bad or loose hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 If you're gonna use stop leak, drain and refill your cooling system afterwards to get rid of the excess stuff. It has done it's job and you don't need it in there any longer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 37Packard Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 It doesn't have a heater or a thermostat so the stuff should be able to flow through pretty easily. I dumped in less than half the pellets-it was mostly the liquid. I couldn't find any loose hoses, bolts or anything else. I've used it before without having any clogging or overheating problems.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Foggy norm Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Hi Dave, I sent a PM, but there doesn't seem to be a reply button there, don't know where it went. try this, nbinder1217@hotmail.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 37Packard Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Hi Dave, I sent a PM, but there doesn't seem to be a reply button there, don't know where it went. try this, nbinder1217@hotmail.comI didn't get it, Norm. I'll reply to your email address.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pack1234 Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 It sounds like the wheel cylinder is seized up. To be honest, if he couldn't figure out how to get a front drum off, I would have some reservations about his mechanical skills. Take off the grease cap, pull the cotter pin, remove the nut and slide the drum and hub off.You are quite right the cylinder is frozen, I had the same problem on a 41 packard I am restoring. By the way I would look for another mechanic who can take a brake drum off. It's pretty simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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