POR-15?

[alini]

Anyone used POR-15 on their frame / under carriage? If so how much did you use?? I almost have the frame stripped down for painted and everywhere I have turned says this is the stuff to use.

[phoemsen]

The general concensus around here is - Por-15 is great on rusty areas but may not adhere well to bare metal. Tremclad or similar rust paint is preferred, and less expensive.

I purchased both Lizard skin products from Eastwood for my under carriage. The sound control and the ceramic (for heat), but am not sure I want to cover up my pristine under carriage.

[Guest Rob J]

It's good stuff, but, you have to use it exactly as the directions say. Do not use it anywhere UV rays will hit it (fades super easy and fast), and do NOT spray it. There are major health hazards in spraying the stuff, and do NOT get it on your skin.

I had my frame blasted, then I epoxy primed it with Eastwood Epoxy primer, then I top coated it with Eastwood's Satin Black Epoxy based Chassis Black Extreme. It dries rock hard, and gives a nice finish. Would do it again the same way.

Here's the frame back from the blaster

After I epoxy primed it.

After top coat.

[alini]

Rob, How heavy is the frame? I still need to strip the suspension off mine and wondering how hard its gonna be to move around once I have it stripped

[Guest Rob J]

The stripped frame is not light, but it is light enough, that I was able to move it around by myself. I used a furniture dolly on the front end of the frame (as seen in the first pic), and I was able to lift the rear of the frame and walk it around that way. I loaded, and unloaded it myself onto the u-haul trailer to and from the blaster. It's doable.

[64R]

A big misconception with POR15 is that it prevents rust, it does not, it encapsulates existing rust to stop it. If you notice rust on your frame it works fine but if you're doing a frame off then what RobJ did is the only way to go, sand blast, epoxy primer and then typically a single stage urethane. I don't know anything about eastwood paints, I use the Dupont lines or PPG.

[pyntre]

A big misconception with POR15 is that it prevents rust, it does not, it encapsulates existing rust to stop it. If you notice rust on your frame it works fine but if you're doing a frame off then what RobJ did is the only way to go, sand blast, epoxy primer and then typically a single stage urethane. I don't know anything about eastwood paints, I use the Dupont lines or PPG.

I second that !!!!!!

[Zimm63]

I used POR 15 in my trunk after fixing the rust holes. Did the entire thing about a year ago. It seems to be holding up fine.

[mhnova65]

Hi Chris.

Personally, I'm not a fan of POR-15. I use Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints and swear by it. They are the same chemistries however, I think that Magnet Paint makes a better product. It is absolutely the right product to use on your chassis as well as all under body/ hood components.

I'll give you a run down on the chemistry. If chemistry scares you, turn back now.

Chassis Saver/ POR -15 are moisture-cure urethanes. They are very similar to the 2K Urethane paints used for basecoat/ clearcoats on the bodies exterior. The main difference is how they are polymerized (or -the incorrectly used term- "cured"). A 2-component urethane paint is composed of two parts: Part A: Polyol (a polymeric alcohol) and Part B: Isocyanate. Their is no Urethane present in that paint system until the you begin the polymerization reaction by mixing the two parts together.

When Part A is mixed with Part B, a chemical reaction occurs in which you create a polymer. In this case: a Polyurethane. Urethanes are coveted for their durability and toughness compared to other paint systems (Lacquers, Enamels, etc.). They are also very expensive and have health implications associated with using them due to their Isocyanate content. Isocyanate's are sensitizers. That is, when you are exposed to them, the body (and everyones is different) can become sensitized to the presence of them. Their are cases in which people who have had limited exposure to isocyanates become sensitized to them and afterward, even a miniscule amount in the air (we're talking parts per million) causes them to break out in rashes and hives......or worse. This is why when a body shop spray's 2K urethane, they have to use a positive pressure respirator in which outside air is pumped into their mask. A regular respirator cannot capture Isocyanate vapors and you will be exposed to them under the false security of wearing a respirator.

Back to the Chassis Saver/ POR-15........

These are similar chemistries however, they can be regarded as a 1-component system (you do not have to mix another part to get them to cure). The resins used to make these paint systems have already been partially pre-reacted (for lack of a better term) to form a Polyurethane "pre-polymer". That pre-polymer has reactive sites on the polymer that are very reactive with atmospheric moisture. When the coating is exposed to moisture in the atmosphere, it begins to react with it to form the polyurethane. An off-product to this reaction is carbon dioxide gas which is why you might notice the product begin to form bubbles or off-gas when you open the can or leave it open.

This is great because it creates a simple 1-component system that is easy to use while providing the durability of polyurethante. But it does cause a limited shelf life issue. I usally buy them in quart cans as they begin to react as soon as you open them and will cure in the can if left partially full (you need to plan ahead so as not to waste your money on this stuff. Sucks to open a can to paint a small part only to open it a week later and find a hockey puck in the can!!).

Moisture-cure urethanes also contain Isocyanates which is the reason why they tell you not to spray them. Just like 2K's, you can spray them as long as you have a positive pressure respirator however, you are probably best off brushing them as they level and flow very nicely (although the satin's can result in some streaking if not done properly).

Now, as far as their UV instability, that has to do with the Isocyanates as well. Isocyanates are very expensive and they come in two major varieties: Aliphatic and Aromatic.

Aromatic Isocyanates are a ring-like structure. They are cheaper however, they are also more reactive and susceptible to UV degradation from direct sun light. The UV rays will not alter the cured film's properties (they will not be weakened) however, the color will fade from black to grey depending on level of exposure. You will not have any of those issues on chassis applications. If you wish to avoid this, you can top-coat after fully cured with another paint for asthetics.

Aliphatic Isocyanates are straight-chain structures that have very little potential for reactivity and are hence more stable....and much more expensive. These are the Isocyanates used in all of your top-coat products for autobody exterior applications. No need to use the more expensive product in a chassis application....which is why they don't!

Class dismissed.

Hope that helps.

Mark

[alini]

I appreciate everyones inputs and I like that you all have so many options and back them up with alot of info. But I havent had my question answered, even if I used the other options. How much product are you guys saying I need I have to order it all from a source.....How much do I need to order

[Guest Rob J]

I appreciate everyones inputs and I like that you all have so many options and back them up with alot of info. But I havent had my question answered, even if I used the other options. How much product are you guys saying I need I have to order it all from a source.....How much do I need to order

I used a Harbour Freight HVLP spray gun to spray both the primer and the chassis black. Including the rear end, and some of the suspension pieces, I used a total of 2 quarts of epoxy primer from Eastwood, and 2 Quarts of Satin Chassis Black. Also used 3 cans of the same Satin Chassis Black for the rest of the front and rear suspension pieces.

[Guest Gseago]

This may not exactly answer your question but after looking at there website which shows sizes of 1 pint, 1 quart, and 1 gal. at the kits having 4oz can(which is supposed to cover 6 sq.ft.) I would buy a quart just for piece of mind.

[Guest testtones]

I used 1 quart on my boattail frame... then top coated with 1 quart of black coat.