'41Roadmast Fuel Pump Rebuild & Brake Question

[Guest rramer]

I just picked up the '41 Road master from a good friend. It's been sitting for 6 years. I blew out the fuel lines and drained the tank, P U! Still no fuel from the pump, I pulled the pump and ordered the rebuild kit. I have a concern with the pivot arm pin. Anyone rebuilt one? Best way to pull that pin? Is there anything on the web as far as instructions on the rebuild?

What do you think about the fuel lines? Should I go ahead and replace? There is a in line filter just below the passenger side door along the frame. Good spot to hide a electric pump?

Also what do you think about running an inline pump? Do I bypass the mechanical? Can I run both?

I am also interested in the possible conversion to front disc brakes. Anyone have a kit out there? Thoughts on this subject?

I also posted this in the general section as in introduction.

thanks,

rr

[FLYER15015]

RRamer

Welcome aboard.........

So she's been in dry dock for 6 years.

In that case, you have some work to do, to avoid the embarassment of being towed home........

Pull the gas tank. Not a big deal. And at least steam clean the inside. I took mine to a car wash.

Rebuild the fuel pump. Again, not a big deal. Use a kit from "Bob's". She may not be "corn/gas" tolerant yet.

Rebuild the carb. Be careful where the idle screws go in, and I set my float "just a bit" low.

Install a 6 volt inline electric fuel pump and a BIG clear plastic filter back by the gas tank. They like to push gas, not pull it.

I used a toggle switch hidden under the dash. Sure helps to prime her after a week in the barn, and it's good for vapor lock too.

Inspect ALL your brake lines, especially the rubber flex ones @ the front wheels and back at the torque tube.

Try my CLR radiator/ block flush first. If she overheats, we may have to pull an expansion plug, and boil the radiator.

Pull the pan and check the oil pump clearance to the cover plate. .025 MAX. Relief spring should be 2.75". I stretched mine to 3.25". Should have gone to 3.50".

Clean the 1-2 inches of mud from the bottom of the pan. We all know it WILL be there.

And please before you do anything buy a reprinted shop manual AND a reprinted parts book.

I thank Jolly-John every day, for chiding me into doing this. It has saved me from some really dumb posts, and of course the resulting chastising from my peers, here on the forum. We like pictures too............

Mike in Colorado

Edited October 12, 2012 by FLYER15015 (see edit history)

[Guest rramer]

Thank you for the warm welcome! This is the best kind of welcome at that! ADVICE! A 35 yr old whipper will need lots of it! Best location for the said manuals and books??

Thanks again!

rr

[Guest Straight eight]

Try www.bobsautomobilia.com he'll have reprints. His website gives you an electronic catalogue.

[FLYER15015]

RR,

When you get time, tell us how and why you dove into this pool.

Also your goals w/ the car. Show or driver will make a big difference in how you attack each issue that will come up.

We also need to know your level of mechanical ability, 'cause some things may need to be "farmed out".

And remember, it's the journey, not the destination.

Mike in Colorado

PS Just checked your gallery, and she's a beauty !!! Looks like it was done well.

Edited October 13, 2012 by FLYER15015 (see edit history)

[414TATA]

rramer

Congrats and welcome.

You gotta love those 41's. I replaced my fuel pump from "Bobs" a little over a year ago and have had no fuel delivery problems thus far.

My car is a driver (usually 40 + miles weekly).

Good luck. These old Buicks are lots of fun.

Wayne

1941 Super 51

26K original miles

[Guest rramer]

I joined the ARMY some time ago, upon getting married my father gave me a first series 1955 Chevy 3100. I drove the truck every day after I got her home and rebuilt the carb twice, I learned a bunch... take your time, listen to your elders, ask lots of questions! I converted it to a 12V, bought steel wheels and radials. The old truck treated me right. I used it like a truck should be used. We were robbed not to long before I got out of the ARMY and an offer came a week or so after I found out about the robbery. Being deployed I didn't get home until after some good folks from the unit had boarded up the house. The offer was good enough and I was headed to T-Town for a new carrier.

I have always liked 4 door sedans new or old. Long story short an opportunity came up about 6 weeks ago being divorced and raising a two great kids. We talked it over and decided to buy the '41 Roadmaster, 51 Ford Deluxe (4door), 64 Impala SS (for sale), '82 Harley Roadster (forsale) and '84 Harley XR1000(for sale). My 14 yr old son asked if we could sell is '73 VW super bug and use the money for the '51 Ford. With about 50 ft of drive way we are in need of some space!! LOL

I am in the middle of converting the VW to Disc brakes and putting in a new passenger floor pan. Then she has to go.

Mechanical abilities?? I can read a book and willing to give anything a go.

'41 Roadmaster(Matilda as she has a name ) was driven home last weekend about 100 miles well after dark. Before our trip we changed the oil and filter, drained and filled the trans, drained the radiator I filled with 50/50 for the trip(I want to try the CLR thing, recommendation? How to article?), I did over heat in the drive way yesterday but we did idle for 30 min or so.

We flushed and drained the tank and rebuilt the fuel pump(Question: with the rebuild kit there was a leather looking washer, I used one of the neoprene bushings with the kit instead. I did not take out the others as they looked pretty new.) The pump works great. Just curious about what I did if you think I did alright here.

I have put almost 300 miles on it in two weeks, I still need to inspect wheel bearings and just got the wheel cylinders for all four wheels Friday. I need to install.

I have suspension questions: What about shocks do you guys run radial tires, what about changing the rims for radials for real trips and keeping white walls and wheels for the occasional "look at Matilda" event? I seem to get some body roll.

Recommendations please I am all ears, modern shocks? She will be driven at least a 100 miles a week and will be going from Tulsa to South Dakota in the summer.

Thanks for your time all!

rr

Seems like a book.

[Guest Grant Magrath]

RR, welcome to the forum! Mike's given you some great advice already. I don't know about the disc brake conversion...... we usually prefer originality over mods here, but she's your baby! No matter what you do, she's always going to be an old car. That's why you bought her!

I would strongly recommend getting the radiator professionally cleaned. Most everyone here with an overheating problem has traced it to a partially blocked radiator.

The original shocks can be rebuilt if they're leaking, and they usually work just fine. Radial tires have softer sidewalls and tend to roll compared to crossplys. If your steering is in good order with no play, crossplys are just as good on the highway as radials. That's my 3 cents!

Cheers

Grant

[FLYER15015]

Wayne,

I sent you a PM re the CLR flush, but Grant is right. A boiled radiator is your first step !!!!!!!

Then if you do the CLR thing, you will know all that crud is comming from the block, and maybe you will not have to pull a freeze plug and go rooting around in there w/ a wire.

If yours is a "driver" like mine, consider a Hayden 6 bladed flex fan @ $40.00 +/- on e-bay, and an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator (wired direct to the batt w/ a switch under the dash) This is also true for an electric fuel pump and BIG filter back by the the tank. Shure saves cranking on the old starter after she sits all week.

I had my brake shoes relined in Denver, by the same guys that relined my clutch (Denver Clutch Exchange) and they did a fine job...

Best regards,

Mike in Colorado

[Guest rramer]

Thank you again for the advice! I will have the radiator boiled and check out the two fans. A question with the 6V fuel pump? I have ordered one, from my experience in another case the fuel pump I had before did not let fuel pass with out it being turned on. This pump from BOB's does it let the fuel flow with turned off? Also what about the wiring? Does a fella run off the line from the tank for power? Direct from the Battery?

Thanks again!

Robert in Tulsa

[FLYER15015]

Robert,

I ran a 12 gage wire direct from the Batt w/ a 15 amp fuse in it, thru the firewall (where the wiper vacuum line goes thru) to power both my elect fan and elect fuel pump (which is back at the tank) both w/ a toggle switch under the dash, so I can run either/ both without having to turn the key on. Also tied the radio into this line. Someday I'll regret that, when I have to get a jump, from leaving it on too long.

I only use the elect fuel pump to prime her after a week sitting in the barn, or for those long 6% grades we have to pull in the summer time. At 8500ft and 90 degrees outside, and having to run "corn-gas", vaporlock is a way of life out here.

Mike in Colorado

[Mark Shaw]

RR,

Welcome to the forum.... You already got some great advice here, but I must add that you should also join the BCA and get a free membership to the BCA PreWar Division. We encourage members to drive their prewar cars regardless of how old or how slow they may be...

Enjoy the ride...

[Guest Grant Magrath]

RR,

We encourage members to drive their prewar cars regardless of how old or how slow they may be...

Enjoy the ride...

.........or their cars!

Cheers

Grant