IT'S ALIVE!

[Guest Broomer]

Hello everyone,

My 65 Riviera Grandsport is Running. It was sitting for 23 years and after going thru all of the great advice I got on this forum concerning starting up a long forgotten Nail Head, it started up. I introduced myself on 7/5/12 on post # 478 on the "introduce yourself" thread. I mention this so I don't have to post redundent info. Well it turns out it just need to have the fuel pump rebuilt and a battery. The master cylinder was dry and the brakes locked up, so that is my next project. The exhaust system is totally rusted through and I am trying to find a place to get an OEM style system. So a lot of scrubbing and a few parts and I should be on the road. Thanx for all the help and I know I will be asking for help with specific items in the future.

Broomer

[RivNut]

One thing you can do for immediate information if to do an advanced search for the information you're looking for. To limit your responses, do an Advanced Search. When the search window opens, click on the Single Search Content tab at the top. Type in your key word(s). In the Additional Options window, hightlight only the forums you want searched. For example, I typed in 'oe exhaust system' as the key words, and limited searches to this forum. I found the following thread which tells the vendor, shows pictures, and gives the price (at the time of the post.)

http://forums.aaca.org/f177/1965-riviera-gs-exhaust-vs-standard-313118.html

Most everything has been discussed at least once. If you don't find it, get back on the forum and tell everyone what your problem is. I'm not trying to dissuade you from posting questions, I'm just trying to help you find your answers in a quicker way.

If you haven't joined already, take a look at the Riviera Owners Association; almost thirty years of accumulated knowledge. The website address is in my signature.

Ed

Edited September 3, 2012 by RivNut (see edit history)

[bb1970]

We'd love to see some photos.

[Guest Broomer]

Today I received my ROA membership card #13839. Now I am really ready to roll!

[Guest Broomer]

Well, I am in to the brake job now, front brake on drivers side is locked up on the aluminum

drum. I have adjusted the brake down to no avail. Is it ok to heat the drum slightly to see if

it will expand enough to release the brake shoe? I have a lot more questions but don't know

if I should start a new thread for each question or just ask them on this one. The master cylinder

needs rebuilt, but since I am into the brake system now, should I replace it with a duel master

cylinder and if so, which one fits best?

Thanx, Broomer

[JZRIV]

Broomer,

Glad you got the car running and welcome to ROA. As for your front brake drum. Does it spin or is it frozen to the brake shoes?

I'm not a big fan of converting to the dual master cylinder but certainly you can if you feel more comfortable. The single reservoir systems are fine as long as the rest of the system is maintained as well as your e-brake. You'll need to replace the master cylinder, brake hoses, steel lines and all wheel cylinders. Though its more money, I strongly recommend getting your master cylinder sleeved with brass or stainless vs buying one off the shelf.

After this topic is covered, I'd suggest starting a new thread specific to whatever new issue you need help with. That way your title will reference your concern and return a better response.

[RivNut]

I ran into a guy today who was having problems getting the drums off of his '63. I'm going to relate to you what his problem was and you can see if it's anything like what you're going through. First question. Can you roll your car and the wheels turn? If so, perhaps you're thinking like this guy did.

Here's his story: Thinking that front brake drums are front brake drums, he did not realize that you have to pull the castle nut off the spindle and pull the drum and hub as an assembly. He totally ruined a set of aluminum front drums thinking they were stuck somewhere. Between his big hammer and a sawzall, he made a complete mess of things. He did finally get the drums off by chiseling off the rivets that hold the hub to the drum. His car is the first '63 Riv I've ever seen that has the drums removed but the hub assembly is still on the spindle.

Good luck.

Ed

[Guest Broomer]

Thanx Jason and Ed for your responses. Jason, the front wheel will not turn. The shoe is

definitly bonded to the drum. Thats why i thought a little bit of heat on the aluminum

may expand it quick enough to release with a little pursuasion. I am tending toward your

opinion on the single master cylinder. I drove a lot of cars with single masters and as long

as brake system is maintained every thing was good.

Ed, I do appreciate your covering the removal of the nut and bearing. Fortunatly I'm an old guy

that has been around these types of projects for many years, but my first experience with a Buick.

So far I have left the drum/hub assembly all in one piece. I'm going to start another thread on

rebuilding the oem fuel pump. I can't find any rebuild kit for it.

thanx again, Broomer

[Guest slacker1965]

broomer,

I haven't tried heat, but did have luck removing the spindle nut, re-installing the wheel/tire(for leverage) & rocking the assy until it freed up.....are you sure the adjuster backed off?

[1965rivgs]

Boomer,

Congrats on the `65 GS and welcome to the ROA! You can try heating and cooling but that has not worked for me-I`m assuming you have the adjusters backed off?

One method is to leave the tire/wheel mounted to the drum but remove the castle axle nut. Use the floor jack as a hammer/battering ram and with a rolling start ram the floor jack into the tire. If this jars the drum loose from the shoes one can usually jimmy the wheel/tire combo loose. The mounted wheel/tire provides extra leverage. I know this sounds somewhat barbaric but I use this method to remove stubborn DUALS from tractors and trailers with stuck wheel seals/bearings. With a heavy duty floor jack (probably 150lbs.) and a good 6 ft. roll I can just about knock a tractor off the jack stands employing this method. The wheels give up quickly.

What I more typically do with cars is heat the head of the holddown pins cherry red and push them thru with a small punch. Sometime it is possible to get a small flat blade between the pin and the backing plate to bring the head of the pin away from the backing plate to prevent getting the backing plate too hot. This method is somewhat risky for a novice as it is possible to also get the backing plate cherry red and ruin the holddown pin holes but I use a torch just about every day so this method works for me. If you are uncomfortable with the torch you can try using a drill, probably need a right angle drill, to accomplish the same task. Remove the brake line and the bolts from the wheel cylinder and the whole mess should fall apart and come away from the backing plate.

By the way, the stage that you are enjoying right now is my favorite stage of restoration. Taking a derelict piece of machinery and returning it to purpose/service is very satisfying and can be challenging! I lose interest when it comes time for cleaning/painting and polishing. Good luck!

Tom Mooney

[Guest Broomer]

Thanx Kevin and Tom. I like the idea of remounting the tire to give me leverage. Sometimes the

simplest things are the best. I will give it a try in the morning.

Broomer

[RivNut]

Thanx Jason and Ed for your responses. Jason, the front wheel will not turn. The shoe is

definitly bonded to the drum. Thats why i thought a little bit of heat on the aluminum

may expand it quick enough to release with a little pursuasion. I am tending toward your

opinion on the single master cylinder. I drove a lot of cars with single masters and as long

as brake system is maintained every thing was good.

Ed, I do appreciate your covering the removal of the nut and bearing. Fortunatly I'm an old guy

that has been around these types of projects for many years, but my first experience with a Buick.

So far I have left the drum/hub assembly all in one piece. I'm going to start another thread on

rebuilding the oem fuel pump. I can't find any rebuild kit for it.

thanx again, Broomer

I pretty much assumed that you did, but it was too coincidental what happened today and too good (?) of a story to let pass.

Ed