65 Riv GS Driveshaft Parts and a question about the Constant Velocity Joint

[fast_dave]

RE: 65 Riv GS Drive Shaft Replacement Parts from CARS, Inc.

LINK to CARS, Inc.: Old Buick Parts - CARS. Inc.

OK - I've done the research, and am trying to get some confirmation.

The ONLY part that has me scratching my head is the constant velocity joint refurbishment kit.

CARS offers two Constant Velocity Joints Re-furb kits - which of the two is correct?

I'm guessing "B" is the correct part for the application, but since this stuff is going to Sweden, it has to be right the 1st time.

You guys are the experts so I figure this is the best place to ask :cool:

A) Driveshaft Constant Velocity Repair Kit 1961-1965

Driveshaft constant velocity repair kits. Saginaw type

Part # CVK610-2

LINK TO THIS PART OFFERING: Old Buick Parts - CARS. Inc.

1963-1965 Buick Riviera

1969-1970 Buick Riviera with Saginaw

Constant Velocity Repair Kit

Part # CVK610-4

LINK TO THIS PART OFFERING: Old Buick Parts - CARS. Inc.

* Three (3) U-Joints 574A-4

* One (1) Driveshaft Support BS619-4

* One (1) Driveshaft Support Bearing DSB611-4

Edited July 20, 2012 by fast_dave (see edit history)

[fast_dave]

OK - A quick phone call to CARS cleared this up - so for thread closure here's the answer.

CVK610-4 & CVK610-2 are THE SAME EXACT PART.

When I asked why they have two different part numbers, the reply was that the part fits a number of different BUICK applications - BUT - due to SKU Numbering over a number of different catalogs, they list different "dash" numbers. Dash 4 is for Rivs, and Dash 2 is for LeSabres.

[Bluzharp]

Is only one cv rebuild kit needed? I'm in the middle of rebuilding my driveshaft, though I think the carrier bearing and support are the only "broken" parts, I figure I may as well do it all, while I've got the shaft out. My local drivetrain "speciaist" is wanting to replace the entire unit by replacing the differential yoke and building a one piece replacement shaft. has anyone else gone this route? I'd prefer to stay "original" if practical, but the shop is insisting the one piece is the BETTER and CHEAPER way to go. I have my doubts.

Art ROA#12350

OK - A quick phone call to CARS cleared this up - so for thread closure here's the answer.

CVK610-4 & CVK610-2 are THE SAME EXACT PART.

When I asked why they have two different part numbers, the reply was that the part fits a number of different BUICK applications - BUT - due to SKU Numbering over a number of different catalogs, they list different "dash" numbers. Dash 4 is for Rivs, and Dash 2 is for LeSabres.

[fast_dave]

Art,

Only ONE CV Re-Build kit is needed!

[CheezeMan]

When I asked why they have two different part numbers, the reply was that the part fits a number of different BUICK applications - BUT - due to SKU Numbering over a number of different catalogs, they list different "dash" numbers. Dash 4 is for Rivs, and Dash 2 is for LeSabres.

Thanks. That helps. I was always confused with their parts - seemingly different but the same. When ever I order something from them, I am always worried that I selected the wrong "dash" number.

[JZRIV]

A word of caution, there have been numerous cases where people had all the joints replaced and had vibration problems afterwards because the shop didn't know how to work on these driveshafts. I have found the factory CV joints are very robust and as long as they had some maintenance over the years will last what almost seems indefinitely. If they are OK, this is not an item I replace as preventive maintenance as to not open a potential can of worms. The joints will almost always provide a warning when failing so its not something that will leave you stranded along the road and pulling the shaft isn't a difficult job.

So if it was me I'd do a close inspection, grease them up and install the new center support/bearing and go.

Not sure about the 65 but the 66 has two CV joints.

Edited August 5, 2012 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[1965rivgs]

Very few driveline shops have the necessary equipment to properly balance this driveshaft. That is most probably the reason your shop prefers to go to a one piece driveshaft, among other reasons. Jason is correct regarding the fact repeat labor time is minimal if a different problem involving the driveshaft should present itself. Proceed with caution. My general philosophy...if it aint broke, dont fix it,

Tom Mooney