dibarlaw Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Copy of a note sent to Leif Holmberg who is always a great help. This may be of assistance to others I was hoping to get my 25 up and running again this weekend. I recieved my new switch body and switches from Bob's yesterday. I was quite dissapointed with the quality of the body. Apparently this is a newer version than mine and so will take some machining to make my pieces fit. I assumed that I would simply switch out the parts and reassemble. I believe the version you posted pictures of was an inprovement. The switch bosses are not weakened by the stop slots as my version. (Notice the rubber band holding the ignition side boss together.) In your's the stops are incorporated onto the wings instead of being closer to center of the switch. So I will have to mill out the stop slots. Also the body of the new part is over .062" smaller than the original and I will have to file the micarta insulating plate to fit the bore. The wall thickness of the body is not heavy enough to bore out on the lathe. I always hate changing an original part to fit a new one. I believe whoever made the switch bodies up simply made a mould from an original and did not allow for the metal shrinkage when cast. The switch levers look beautiful but still needed some filing to work smoothly. I guess I am being overly critical since these are our only source. But when I pay $65.00 for a new part, I don't expect to have to put $50.00 in my labor to make it work. I wonder how others who don't have machine tools or the skill to deal with this situation. Other than sending the entire switch out for rebuilding. Another beautiful weekend not driving my Buick.Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Larry,I have sent more pictures to you (E-Mail) and you can perhaps do the job another way if looking at the pictures I sent to you.You can show the pictures here if you want to. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 Leif: Finally home frrom the Buick nationals. We did 1,002 miles on the complete trip with visits to relatives along the way. I was able to judge in class M at the speedway. A new experience! Especially at over 110 degrees F! The switch parts arrived while we were in North Carolina. Thank you so much. Last night I put the switch back together. Your parts fit perfectly. But still had much fitting with the new switch levers to the body. Very loose fits. I cut .003 shim stock to wrap the levers, taking up the excessive play. Also had to carve out the micarta plate to fit the key switch. Even though I filed the exterior of the insulating plate. The body was still a bit out of round when I tried to tighten down the fasteners. I had to do more adjustments to get the plate to sit flat. Now out to the garage to install the switch. 100 degrees F here today! Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Larry, great job. Hope it all works and you have a running engine and car soon. Don't you just love the heat? Even the pool is getting too hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 Leif: Finished the switch instalation. Still found some loose connections and replaced leads. I did not see the cowl/dash light before I was working on this. I removed and found that it was covered with black overspray and the socket was filled with dirt. After cleaning up(the overspray protected the nickel plating), replacing the wire adding a bulb, the dashlight is quite adequate. "Beulha," thats what Joan named the 1925, started right up but was still not showing a charge. After supper I added a 1/2 gallon of water, (left plenty of space in top tank). Joan and I decided to take a drive. Still after about a mile it was overheating so back home again. Did notice the charge rate kicked up to about 13 amps. I went to drive around my neighborhood to park back in my garage and since it was getting dark I turned lights on and after I turned them off was not showing a charge again. I will try to send that file again as a Zip attachment. Best Regards: Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) Larry.Be sure the 3 brushes are okey on the generator,and check the timing ignition too if the engine get hot so fast.Or it looks like the water don`t circulate,remove the hose from upper radiator and plug it.Be ready with a water hose to fill up the radiator after you have start the engine and see if the water "blow"out from the upper part of the engine "outlet" ,all that after you have put a long hose from the upper water outlet to any kind of container to see if there are any dirt from inside).Maybe that way will clean the engine and pump,the radiator is harder to clean becuse it looks like concrete inside.(revised) Leif. Edited July 15, 2012 by Leif Holmberg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 Leif: Just rebuilt my combination switch and after some trial and error my 1925-25 is charging again @ 10amp @ idle now. But I was afraid I was needing to get into that Delco Unit. So it would be advisable to start looking for a spare unit for parts. Of course the overheating issue is still with me. I back flushed the radiator again today.(Got out a handfull of crud). Rechecked the timing and reset points. Does anyone know what capacity of the condenser is? I have hardly driven 10 miles since I have owned the car and the points are pitting again. Also made a plug for the exhaust diverter in case that was adding to the overheating. Just got everythig done tonight to go for a test drive and then the electric fuel pump quit. After I crawled under the car 1/2 out of the garage and took everything appart. Found a 2" long piece of hose going into my pressure regulator that was cracked. Now she is running again. And still charging! Thank God for small victories!! Test drive maybe tomorrow.But wait still suposed to be about 100deg. Larry<!-- google_ad_section_end --> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Larry.The capacity of the condensator are the same on most of them in the same dimention so you can use a brand new with same diameter and lenght,just find a new one that will fit in your distributor. Leif. Edited July 18, 2012 by Leif Holmberg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 25, 2012 Author Share Posted July 25, 2012 Just got back from a wedding in CT. Joan and I thought that we could try a bit longer of a drive with "Beulha". We did get about 4 miles this time. We drove about a mile, returned to our home neighborhood. Since the motometer was not quite half way after 10 min of driving I thought I would try another mile farther. Retracing our route I saw the spot where we waited to make a turn on the previous trip. On the pavement I could see the short water trail and puddle from the overflow side of the radiator. Made annother mile, returned and pulled up to the drive way as the gage was topped out and radiator steaming off. I let it cool down, then added 5 qt of water to bring back to level. Just above core. Finished sweeping out the garage. Tried to start, but it took some doing. Then drove arround the block about 400 yards and backed Beulha into the garage. Where I stopped to straighten out on the last back up that is where water pushed out again. No other trails. This time quite a bit of white foam lost about 2 qt. But the good news is that it was still charging! Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Larry, Have you checked the bottom radiator hose to make sure it will not collapse when running? This will cause foaming and cavitate the pump. You should not be able to collapse it with your hand... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 Thanks Mark: One of the first things I did was to make a coil of brass wire to install in the lower hose. But as much as I have avoided the other possibility I may have to pull the head and put in a new gasket. I believe all is well for about 5 to 10 min untill things get up to tempreature then the break opens in the gasket. I will next check the compression. I had to make up an adapter (bored out old spark plug) to match up to the 7/8 thread to the compression gage. By the way how is the 1912-34 comming along? Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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