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Spare keys?


Willy

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Thought I'd share this with you all. I purchased a Clum ignition switch/headlight switch last week on ebay. It was in pieces, burned at the back, and stuck. I put in first bid, and got it. It was in a bad way, but after taking it the rest of the way apart, it didn't look too bad. A pin was broken inside, so I set it on my drill press, and put in a new pin. Washing it all out with brake cleaner, and spraying a bit of WD-40 in it, I discovered the key stuck in there was the right one (DB48-how often does that happen?). After putting it all back together, I now had a nice switch, with the correct key. I took it to a key shop in town. He was very doubtful he could duplicate a Clum key, but he found a Taylor (40B) that looked close. He wasn't confident it would work, but I told him I'd pay no matter what. He built the key, with the understanding I'd take it home, and use my Dremel tool to shave off heavy ridges on the sides. I put it in - worked first time! Smooth as silk! He was astonished! I was happy - now I have a spare key!

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Mike, I didn't modify it at all - the key man had to cut both sides, and while he was telling me I had to make modifications, I stuck it in and it worked! The Taylor 40B was a little thicker, and it wouldn't go in while it was a blank, but after he cut both sides, it fit perfectly. All I had to tell him was to try, and I'll pay for the key, no matter what. I would have used my Dremel tool to modify it if it was necessary. If nothing else, I might still buy a couple of blanks, and hand cut them myself.

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Just another thought. If I could figure how to remove the key cylinder from the back (does anybody know?), I would take out all but one or two pins, store the extras, and line it up with whatever key I was able to find. I used to re-key locks this way. Nobody will know there's only one pin, and once you figure how to get in, you could re-key with any key that way. A thin sliver of shim brass slid carefully between the cylinder and housing (from the back) as you're raising and lowering one pin at a time. There are two screws in the back, but are half- covered by the moveable bakelite cylinder - I just don't know how that comes out.

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Hi Willy,

Here is a photo of the back of the switch. I couldn't find any other pics, I must have been too lazy to get the camera. I think I also had to remove the face plate from the edge surround by unbending the other, smaller tabs (pointer in top left of photo). There might have been a snap ring in there but I'm not positive. I think once you get the back off it becomes pretty obvious.

post-74074-143138854755_thumb.jpg

post-74074-143138854758_thumb.jpg

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Mike, mine is different - there are two pins, and one screw. Undo the screw, twist the assembly, and it comes apart. I took the center bakelite piece out, but the outer ring (also bakelite) is half - covering two screws, and that's where I'm stuck. I don't want to force anything and ruin the bakelite. Maybe the two screws remove the bakelite, not the key cylinder.

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Guest gprtech

New clum key blanks are still available to fit these types of locks that use them. You can duplicate them on a regular key duplicator, but getting one cut to match a lock requires that you have a set of pattern keys.

I keep a complete set and can supply keys cut to fit these locks:

Key Men - Keys for Classics

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