Advice for dropping the tranny (1940 Buick Special)

[Aceswild03]

Hey guys,

First off, thanks to everyone for being so helpful with tracking down my fuel problem. I was able to diagnose the problem yesterday due to all of your help! Thanks again!

While I will be working to fix the fuel line problem, I need to drop the transmission too and replace the seals (I think).

I beleive it is leaking from the front seal, but havent been able to closely inspect it enough to be 100% sure.

Assuming that is the issue, how difficult is it to drop the tranny in these cars?

Thanks guys!

Andy

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Not too bad. Get the car up on axel stands, undo the driveshaft at the rear of the trans, and undo the trailing arms to move the axel to the rear of the car to give you room to get the tranny back and down. There's probably some finer points I've missed, but that's essentially the main bits.

Cheers

Grant

[Aceswild03]

So unhook the drive shaft and use a come-a-long or something to pull the axle toward the rear of the car? Or am I misinterrupting?

Do I need to remove the rear springs to do this...if I'm understanding correctly?

As always...thanks for the help!

[FLYER15015]

Andy,

When I pulled the Tx on my '40 LTD, we but her up on blocks, took the top bolt out from the springs to the frame, undid the center brake line and emergency brake cable, and the shock links from the trailing arms, took down the pass side of the "pannard rod", and she rolled out on the brake drums.

Bob's has the seals for the Tx, and don't forget to replace the seals for the 2 shifting arms that hook up to the linkage on the driver's side. We installed Bob's shim kit on the torque tube ball and coated the ball w/ neverseize rather than grease.

This would also be a good time to pull the speedo cable and lube it too and lube the heck out of the speedo drive gear @ the back of the Tx. We used moly chasssis lube.

Just some rememberances.

Mike in Colorado

Edited January 28, 2012 by FLYER15015
spelling (see edit history)

[61polara]

There is enough fex in the springs that you do not have to remove them. Unbolt the sway bar and the shock links. I've hooked a come-a-long around the rear axle and the other end to the trailer hitch on another vehicle. With the come-a-long you can pull the axle / torque tube back far enough to remove the transmission. Far easier than disconnecting the brake lines, e-brake cable and springs to roll the rear end out as the shop manual states. Good luck!