'48 Chrysler oil change proceedures

[Guest markrush]

What are the correct proceedures/ sequence of changing oil in a full-flow Chrysler 6? Capacity is rated as 5 qts. Do I add any oil to the oil filter canister or put the new cartridge ion dry? If I add a new oil filter, is the capacity still 5 qts or do I add extra to allow for the filling of the canister/filter?

[Rusty_OToole]

Remove drain plug from pan and let drain.

If it is due for a new filter take the lid off the filter, pull out the cartridge by the ring and throw it away. It helps to have a plastic bag to wear like a glove then wrap the filter when you pull it out.

Wipe the cannister clean with cotton waste or rags. Make sure you get the seals in the right place and don't forget the one on the hold down bolt if there is one. You can pour new oil over the filter before you put the lid on if you wish.

With the filter changed you can put the drain plug back in. Inspect the gasket to see if it is squashed, cracked or worn. If it is worn put on a new one. This should be done about every 4th or 5th oil change to prevent leaks. The original was probably copper or aluminum but a modern plastic one will work fine. Do not over tighten.

Fill the crankcase with oil. My handbook says 4 Imperial quarts crankcase only. This would be close to 5 US quarts. I think the filter would hold slightly less than a quart.

Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Inspect the filter for leaks. Shut down and let the oil drain back into the crankcase. Recheck later and top up if necessary. It is better to be too low than too high or at least, easier to correct. If you are not sure leave out 1 quart until you check it.

In those days an oil change and lubrication job was quite a process. It could include greasing 30 or more points on the chassis, checking transmission oil, differential, oil bath air filter, oiling the generator, hood hinges etc. checking the battery and topping up with water as necessary. Check pressure and pump up all 5 tires. You may be able to find all the harrowing details in an old service manual.

Edited December 12, 2011 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Guest markrush]

Thank you for responding. I'm new to this car. I have some service books; they only say to change the filter every 5,000 miles, but they don't explain a procedure that was probably obvious to everyone in 1948. I think I did what you suggest, but after the oil drained out of the pan, I unscrewed the top of the oil filter housing to get to the filter and oil spilled out. It had not drained down through the pan. I quickly put it back on, cleaned the mess as best as I could, then opened the small drain plug on the bottom of the oil filter housing and drained the housing separately. Is that normal procedure or is there a clogged line that prevented the canister from draining into the pan?

[jazzer3]

Check the bottom of the filter canister for a pipe plug. The size of the oil lines prohibit the oil from draining rapidly with only gravity, also sometimes there are designed restrictions in the oil line fittings.

Jay

[Joe Cocuzza]

You should drain the oil filter canister before opening it up. If for no other reason, you don't want a 1/2 quart of dirty oil circulating into the new, fresh oil and filter.

Sometimes the drain hole can be clogged with sludge because that is where all the gunk settles - at the bottom of the canister. If the oil drained slowly from the canister, I would take a piece of a wire clothes hanger and clean the drain hole going in from the outside of the canister. Then I would inspect the inside of the canister, especially the bottom, and clean it out with rags. Then wipe it clean.

Install the new cartridge, add some new oil to the canister, new seals and install the cover.

Hope this helps.

Joe

[Rusty_OToole]

If there is a drain plug on the filter use it. Cheaper cars did not have this convenience. You had to use a syphon gun to suck the oil out of the filter housing. If you do not have a syphon gun ( I assume you haven't) then the only thing to do is sop up the oil with rags or waste.

In other words yes you did the right thing to drain the filter housing.

Full flow filters have an anti drain back valve. You do not want the oil to drain out of the filter when the car is sitting. If it did your motor would start up dry and the bearings, pistons etc would be running metal on metal with no oil pressure until the filter filled up.

Partial flow is different, they usually drain back and it does not affect your oil pressure or flow at all.

By the way the oil filter will last longer if you drain it at oil change time. Modern paved roads and a temperate climate and the filter could go 10,000 miles easy. If you drive on dirt roads in the desert better stick with the 5000 interval.

Edited December 13, 2011 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Guest markrush]

Thank you, all. It makes sense now.

[Guest markrush]

If there is a drain plug on the filter use it. Cheaper cars did not have this convenience. You had to use a syphon gun to suck the oil out of the filter housing. If you do not have a syphon gun ( I assume you haven't) then the only thing to do is sop up the oil with rags or waste.

In other words yes you did the right thing to drain the filter housing.

Full flow filters have an anti drain back valve. You do not want the oil to drain out of the filter when the car is sitting. If it did your motor would start up dry and the bearings, pistons etc would be running metal on metal with no oil pressure until the filter filled up.

Partial flow is different, they usually drain back and it does not affect your oil pressure or flow at all.

By the way the oil filter will last longer if you drain it at oil change time. Modern paved roads and a temperate climate and the filter could go 10,000 miles easy. If you drive on dirt roads in the desert better stick with the 5000 interval.

Rusty, I see the logic of draining the dirty oil from the canister even if I am not changing the filter. I'm not ready to do that yet, but A question occurred to me I thought I should clarify in my mind for when the time comes. If I open the pipe fitting and drain the dirty oil off the filter, should I then also add some clean oil for the start-up, or will there be sufficient left in the old filter/ canister? Thanks again for your help.

[Rusty_OToole]

Rusty, I see the logic of draining the dirty oil from the canister even if I am not changing the filter. I'm not ready to do that yet, but A question occurred to me I thought I should clarify in my mind for when the time comes. If I open the pipe fitting and drain the dirty oil off the filter, should I then also add some clean oil for the start-up, or will there be sufficient left in the old filter/ canister? Thanks again for your help.

You have to use your own judgement here. If you warmed up the engine with a 10 mile drive before draining the oil, then there will be oil in the bearings etc when you start up after the oil change. It may take 10 seconds to refill the filter, this will do no harm. But if it makes you nervous you can take the lid off and top up the filter housing.