Doug in Oz Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 I am having intermittent problems with the starter clutch. Sounds rough. metal to metal scraping etc and sometimes the pawls lock into place OK and the engine rotates. Other time it spins freely so the engine does not rotate. On closer inspection I have found a small approx 1/8th hole between the belt pulley and the front of the clutch assy. Is this an oil hole? and if so what grade of oil and how often should it be lubricated or am I going to have to look further into the clutch assy. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Your problems could simply be related to lack of oil lubrication into the clutch assy or worse worn pawls. The pawls have been reproduced by a fellow in USA but it was several years ago, I don't know whether he has any left at this time. As for oil I just use #30 SAE engine oil after I had disassembled the clutch on my 1928 GB Big Six, cleaned it and reassembled it. Here are a few images of that project work. In the end I used bright yellow paint marker to identify the location of the oil lube port that is rather hard to see when installed on crankshaft.Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studerex Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 A fellow club member had this same problem happen on this years Glidden tour. He missed a few days when the starter would not carch. I had him buy some PB blaster and spray in the lube hole. It caught first time, then he turned it off and tried 4 more times and it worked everytime. He said it never did that since he owned the car. So you might want to try some type of penatrating oil to free it up first, then oil it reguarly as the owners manuls sugests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug in Oz Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Hi GuysThanks for your advise. I put oil into the oil hole, started the car ( by using that good invention "the crank handle") drove the car for about 15 minutes and the starter has worked every time I have tried since and is the quietest it has opperated in the last 2 years. Will make it part of the regular serviceDoug in OZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GE Dictator 1928 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I'm confused. Doesn't the starter have a standard bendix shaft and gear that throws into the flywheel gear? I have a '28 GE Dictator that is having intermittent problems when I go to start the car. The first time or two, the motor turns without engagement, then it engages and the car starts.Keith Gramlich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug in Oz Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 I dont know what year or model changes were made to a flywheel ring gear starting system but earlier models used a leaf chain drive from the starter motor which was mounted at the front of the engine to a one way pawl clutch that was mounted on the front of the crankshaft just behind the belt pulley.I have attached a photo from Stude 8 that was on an earlier forum. Hope this helps explain.Doug in Oz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GE Dictator 1928 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 WOW Thanks for the primer Doug. I had no idea tht this was a completely different set up from what i am used to (a starter and bendix unit that comes out of the car).How hard is it to get the cover off that houses this whole thing. It looks as if this is something I should attack over the winter like Stude 8 did.Thanks!Keith Gramlich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Here are a few more images of pulling the vibration damper/starter clutch assy on the 1928 Big Six engine. I don't know exactly how the Dictator system is configured or whether it is similar to this or not. What I wanted to show is with the engine in the car it is a very tight working location between the end of crankshaft and the frame cross piece that supports the radiator. It took a flange puller tool (Owatonna #7403) to get the damper hub off the crankshaft and getting the tool with the 3 arm head that bolts to the damper with 3 bolts and center pusher bolt that forces it off the crankshaft all in the few inches between crankshaft and support was a real tough job.Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dictator27 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Light/Standard/Dictator 6s did not use the chain drive system.Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GE Dictator 1928 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Yes, now that I've had a chance to look at my car, I see the standard bendix drive unit.Still learning about all this myself. The above system is quite an interesting set up. I thouight I might have the same as the front of my engine looks somewhat similar. I have been having a problem recently where when i let the car sit for a week, it takes several hits of the starter button before the starter engages with the flywheel. It is fine then for the rest of the day, until I lay it up for a week again.Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dictator27 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Sounds like your bendix drive may have oil residue on it. The bendix relies on armature rotation to engage the flywheel. The bendix shaft must be free of oil residue otherwise it will stick.Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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