Guest Rob J Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 This may do it, hmmm.]Looks like this replacement booster was installed incorrectly, thus, this damage occured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonly Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 wow. how was it installed incorrectly? I'm putting one on here in a few days... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob J Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 wow. how was it installed incorrectly? I'm putting one on here in a few days...The eye in the pushrod was not completely installed on the pin of the brake pedal. Appears the eye hole may have been too small, so it was only partially on the pin, and held at an angle. So, when you pressed the pedal, the pushrod was pushing against the plastic of the booster, resulting in the pic above, and no power brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 (edited) I can certainly see how this happened. The brake booster pushrod eyelet is a very precise fit to the pin on the brake pedal arm. It is not a tight fit, but it is an exact fit and if the eyelet is not lined up exactly square, it will not slide on. I have had several people contact me about this. One person was planning to unbolt the brake pedal arm from the bracket. (He was still trying to remove it.)The "secret" to this job is:1. Remove all floor mats from front drivers side. You want the brake pedal to move down as far as possible.2. Remove the 4 booster mounting nuts (inside car).3. Remove the keeper from the end of the brake pedal arm pin (to allow the eye to slide off the pin).4. From under the hood, pull the booster away from the firewall as far as possible (assumes all brake lines were disconnected) until the threaded studs on the back of the booster clear the firewall. This will bottom the brake pedal on the carpet.5. Move the booster sideways toward the driver's fender while a helper slides the eyelet off of the pin inside the car. It will jam if you try to slide the booster faster than the other guy slides the eyelet. You need to alternate very small movements of eyelet across the pin and booster across the firewall. I have done it without a helper by going back and forth between under hood and under dash, but a help makes it so much easier and faster.Reverse above to install. Edited July 30, 2011 by Jim_Cannon (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 [if it is not there already, perhaps someone can copy/paste this into the Members Only section of the ROA web page for future reference. Who does that?]Jim,Nice suggestion! I don't believe its on the website. If you send the request to Ray, he will work with Mike Vogt our webmaster to get it in the Tech Tips section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTX-SLPR Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Just went through this lastnight and I don't have a helper. To skip the helper I used the 9/16in socket on a 6in extension as a lever between the steering column and the pushrod. I just wiggled the brake pedal while prying on the pushrod and eventually it popped off. Took me 3x as long to get the push rod off as it did to take EVERYTHING else apart. I'm swapping to Hydroboost and I think my master is shot. Can Booster Dewey fix the above problem or is that one not even core material? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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