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Bolt on brake rattle solution/upgrade


D-a-n-i-e-l

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I went over to Rock Auto and they no longer have the Kelsey-Hayes calipers. That makes sense as I bought them as close outs at $21.00 each [thanks Mc_Reatta!]. There are some other close outs. Some have the e-brake mounting bracket, but you will still need the spring, so off to the junk yard you will go. It might make more sense to go to a junk yard and get the entire set up and then use it as a core when you buy the reman. Or you can just use the junk yard one to see how it works and then buy a reman later if you want. Of course you will want new rotors and pads.

 The caliper I used is from a 1993-2002 Cadillac Eldorado. Remember passenger rear.

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 I went and looked at the parts I used and they were;

 Kelsey-Hayes reman caliper #40-82547

 Dorman brake line #H38374

 Once again I had to get the e-brake cable mounting bracket and the e-brake cable spring from Gibson's [my local You Pick] as they did not come with the reman calipers. They came off a 1999 or so Cadillac and fit right on. I did not have to go buy different banjo bolts or brass washers.

 I did not swap any part of the brake cables. 

In referencing the part #s, the Dorman H38374 does not come up against the '99 Eldo, but I assume that Mc_Reatta had verified that it was a mechanically appropriate hose (both sides) in length and connectors?

 

Found the passenger calipers/brackets/cables/springs at local salvage yard for $70 total, so they are pulling them off for me for pickup.  Glad I have Daniels pics for comparison with what they pull. 

Edited by drtidmore (see edit history)
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 I believe that is the correct one. I could not find my bill of sale from Rock Auto but purchased four passenger side rear calipers and two hoses. Two calipers and one hose were installed leaving me with 2 calipers and one hose. The remaining hose is laying with the calipers waiting for the rear brakes on the 'vert to wear out.

 I know that Mc_Reatta would have researched that one so give it a try. If by chance it is wrong for your application, I would think you can return/exchange it.

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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 I believe that is the correct one. I could not find my bill of sale from Rock Auto but purchased four passenger side rear calipers and two hoses. Two calipers and one hose were installed leaving me with 2 calipers and one hose. The remaining hose is laying with the calipers waiting for the rear brakes on the 'vert to wear out.

 I know that Mc_Reatta would have researched that one so give it a try. If by chance it is wrong for your application, I would think you can return/exchange it.

Dave,

That Dorman # is actually for the Reatta front wheel, but the main thing is that it is longer but not too long

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Only has to be a bit longer to take the stress off. Hey at least you had some part numbers to start from.

 With those parts you have coming from the yard rust won't be an issue. Good for you.

 I said it earlier that you don't need the Cadillac cable, you just need the cable reatainer spring. To remove the spring you just "open" the end and hook it around the cable and screw it off. Then you go to the Reatta and screw it back onto the Reatta cable. No cable pieces to swap or adjustments to make. Just remember to bend the ears out on the Reatta cable to "lock" into the Cadillac caliper e brake bracket.  

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what about a rebuild kit for our calipers?

with the right tools, a caliper is not all that hard to rebuild

rebuild kits ARE available for the OEM Reatta rear brakes. The reasons for switching to the Caddy setup:  a one pump e-brake, easier pad replacement as the e-brake system complications are eliminated, availability of ceramic pads, a more robust stopping ability due to  slightly larger rotor and pads (still fits inside stock 15 aluminum wheels).  In all honesty, the difference in difficulty between doing a rebuild on the OEM vs doing the swap (even considering doing a rebuild on the salvaged caddy calipers) is pretty trivial and the gains are significant. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

rebuild kits ARE available for the OEM Reatta rear brakes. The reasons for switching to the Caddy setup:  a one pump e-brake, easier pad replacement as the e-brake system complications are eliminated, availability of ceramic pads, a more robust stopping ability due to  slightly larger rotor and pads (still fits inside stock 15 aluminum wheels).  In all honesty, the difference in difficulty between doing a rebuild on the OEM vs doing the swap (even considering doing a rebuild on the salvaged caddy calipers) is pretty trivial and the gains are significant. 

 

good to know!

thank you!

Is swapping the calipers and pads the only thing I need?

won't affect the abs?

I may go ahead and get ready for the swap.  If I go to the parts store, what year and model of caddy do I get for?

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You will find rebuilt calipers lack the bracket for the e-brake.  The ONLY way to get this bracket is from salvaged calipers.   A pair of rear passenger side calipers costs way less than you will pay for not having return cores (i.e. pull the e-brake bracket and mount on rebuilt calipers, turn in the salvaged calipers for credit).  

 

You also need the caliper mounting brackets which can be purchased new, but salvaged caliper brackets will work as well for a fraction of the cost.  

 

Daniel used Caddy e-brake cables to each side but others have indicated that the stock Reatta cable works.   I would get Caddy e-brake cables just to be sure.

 

This is also the time to replace the hydraulic flex lines on each side.  Yours are likely factory and at 25+ old, they are due for replacement. 

 

New Caddy rotors will be needed.  

 

This upgrade does NOT impact the ABS as you are doing nothing that changes the inputs to that system. 

 

You are looking for 1999 Caddy Seville/Eldorado parts.

Edited by drtidmore (see edit history)
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You will find rebuilt calipers lack the bracket for the e-brake.  The ONLY way to get this bracket is from salvaged calipers.   A pair of rear passenger side calipers costs way less than you will pay for not having return cores (i.e. pull the e-brake bracket and mount on rebuilt calipers, turn in the salvaged calipers for credit).  

 

You also need the caliper mounting brackets which can be purchased new, but salvaged caliper brackets will work as well for a fraction of the cost.  

 

Daniel used Caddy e-brake cables to each side but others have indicated that the stock Reatta cable works.   I would get Caddy e-brake cables just to be sure.

 

This is also the time to replace the hydraulic flex lines on each side.  Yours are likely factory and at 25+ old, they are due for replacement. 

 

New Caddy rotors will be needed.  

 

This upgrade does NOT impact the ABS as you are doing nothing that changes the inputs to that system. 

 

You are looking for 1999 Caddy Seville/Eldorado parts.

 

thanks for the info!

This will be on my list of things to do this year

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  • 2 weeks later...

i put my 1996 seville rear brakes on today which increased rotor size from ten to eleven inches.the hardest part was unhooking the old emergency brake cables.i tried a half inch boxend wrench and then a worm clamp.the rotors swap out perfectly and works well with the dust shield.i unbolted the old caliper/bracket and bolted the caddy caliper/bracket on.it was the same as bolting the reatta caliper back on.the brake line is really short but ok for now.i still have to swap the emergency brake cables.the reatta cable has the wrong end.i used my vacumn brake tool to bleed the brakes.the main downside is now my spare tire won't fit without a spacer which i will have to get.anyone know where i can get the brake cable splice[connector?]so i can install the brake cable?the passinger side cable will work perfectly.i haven't looked at the drivers side yet.

btw if you reuse the used calipers like i did you will need a tool to move the caliper piston back out of the way of the new pads.

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Now that it has been about a month since I swapped out the front calipers/flexible brake lines on the Black, I have to say that the braking power seems to be much better and makes me question the validity of doing a rear brake "upgrade". I did the rear "upgrade" on the Red and am happy for doing it from a "convienance" factor, but am thinking that as the front brakes do most of the stopping a consideration should be made for swaping out the original front calipers and flexible brake lines.

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  • 3 weeks later...

i put my 1996 seville rear brakes on today which increased rotor size from ten to eleven inches.the hardest part was unhooking the old emergency brake cables.i tried a half inch boxend wrench and then a worm clamp.the rotors swap out perfectly and works well with the dust shield.i unbolted the old caliper/bracket and bolted the caddy caliper/bracket on.it was the same as bolting the reatta caliper back on.the brake line is really short but ok for now.i still have to swap the emergency brake cables.the reatta cable has the wrong end.i used my vacumn brake tool to bleed the brakes.the main downside is now my spare tire won't fit without a spacer which i will have to get.anyone know where i can get the brake cable splice[connector?]so i can install the brake cable?the passinger side cable will work perfectly.i haven't looked at the drivers side yet.

btw if you reuse the used calipers like i did you will need a tool to move the caliper piston back out of the way of the new pads.

i played with wheel spacers today.with the 1998-2002  camaro brakes you will need a 3.25 inch spacer to use the reatta spare.the spare hit the entire caliper.to clear the 1996 seville rear brakes you need a one inch spacer.btw i have one to sale since i bought two.i misplaced my seville brake cables so i can't comment on the fit.

Edited by handmedownreatta (see edit history)
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I'm about to do a rear brake upgrade using 1992-1999 Cadillac Eldorado junkyard parts.

I've pulled calipers and brackets, emergency brake cables, connectors and brackets, rotors, pads, springs, screws and anything else that wasn't welded down to the frame.  

You guys made this sound as if all one had to do was unbolt this and that.  I won't tell you how long i spent on my back on cold, wet 3/4 minus unhooking the emergency brake cables.

I'm cleaning all the parts now, then I'll paint them.  I bought new front brake lines to put on the rears.  

I'll keep you informed on the upgrade progress.

I'd like to thank everyone who has added input to this project, especially to Daniel who started it.  You made it so much easier for quasi-mechanics, such as myself, to do something meaningful to keep these wonderful American motorcars safe and running.

My Blue on Blue just turned 226,000 miles, still runs like a dream and my 97 year-old mother-in-law still gets a thrill out of driving in it.

Does life get any better than that?

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/3/2016 at 5:50 PM, handmedownreatta said:

i put my 1996 seville rear brakes on today which increased rotor size from ten to eleven inches.the hardest part was unhooking the old emergency brake cables.i tried a half inch boxend wrench and then a worm clamp.the rotors swap out perfectly and works well with the dust shield.i unbolted the old caliper/bracket and bolted the caddy caliper/bracket on.it was the same as bolting the reatta caliper back on.the brake line is really short but ok for now.i still have to swap the emergency brake cables.the reatta cable has the wrong end.i used my vacumn brake tool to bleed the brakes.the main downside is now my spare tire won't fit without a spacer which i will have to get.anyone know where i can get the brake cable splice[connector?]so i can install the brake cable?the passinger side cable will work perfectly.i haven't looked at the drivers side yet.

btw if you reuse the used calipers like i did you will need a tool to move the caliper piston back out of the way of the new pads.

i played with wheel spacers today.with the 1998-2002  camaro brakes you will need a 3.25 inch spacer to use the reatta spare.the spare hit the entire caliper.to clear the 1996 seville rear brakes you need a one inch spacer.btw i have one to sale since i bought two.i misplaced my seville brake cables so i can't comment on the fit.

i tried to install the brake cables yesterday.the rear cables work fine.the intermediate cable is too long with a too short inner cable.i had to reverse the rear setup and will need to extend the front cable mount.i will take pictures.the good news is it locks the back brakes down at 1.5 pumps.i can't fine tune it til i make a new mount for the front bracket.an alternative to moving the front mount is having a six inch cable made to take up the extra distance.im not doing that because the outer cable is already too long.i mentioned brake line crimps in an earlier post.it turned out they weren't crimps and the cables could be removed by forcing them to the middle.new connectors available at napa.

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